Usb power in cabin, an alternative?

you can get just about every combination possible.
Lightning is used on the mobile devices like iPhone and iPad, but even they are coming with USB C chargers now (certainly iPad Pro and iPhone 11)
I suspect lightning won't be around much longer on the devivces either
 
BrendanS said:
you can get just about every combination possible.
Lightning is used on the mobile devices like iPhone and iPad, but even they are coming with USB C chargers now (certainly iPad Pro and iPhone 11)
I suspect lightning won't be around much longer on the devivces either
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Well maybe, but for fitting charging outlets on the boat I'll stick with USB for now ... ...
 
James_Calvert said:
We use things like these in the car and in the boat. But they seem to have a limited lifespan. Given that the built in kit does essentially the same job, can we expect them to be more reliable? Because it would be a pain to have to refit them every other year or so.
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A built in socket I had didn't last long so I replaced it with a cigar lighter socket. The usb plugs only cost a couple of quid if/when they pack up and readily available.
 
gregcope said:
KompetentKrew said:
Please post a review when you've had the chance to properly use this.
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Okay, so this one "USAMS C15 QC4.0 PD3.0 Dual Output Fast Charging Mini Type-C USB Port". Does not work well ...

USAMS C15 QC4.0 PD3.0 Dual Output Fast Charging Mini Type-C USB Port Car Charger for Samsung S10+ Xiaomi Mi9 Redmi Note8 HUAWEI P30Pro Chargers & Cables from Mobile Phones & Accessories on banggood.com

Using a Victron 702 battery monitor for data.

Only seems to draw 10W when charging an iPhone X, which is around 2A into the phone. It is not reaching a claimed 30W! Only other data point is the phone was reasonably well charged (90%).

My Mac recognises it as an AC adaptor (Connected: Yes) - either as a 10W one or 30W one (Wattage (W): X); but fails to start charging the battery (Charging: No) and after about 10 secs "dings" to say it is disconnected and the power draw drops to 0A. The battery slowly seems to discharge. Hard to tell if this is any faster than if no AC adaptor. Data is from "About this Mac"-> "System Report" -> "Power".

Also physically it is about 5mm too long and on some 12V plugs starts to fall out.

Will try another.
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Sorry Greg, I meant to ask if you'll please post a review of the USB-charged soldering iron when you've had a chance to test it properly.

Regarding USB-C charging of Macs, I killed a MacBook by charging through a cheap USB-C hub which I bought off Amazon. It had worked fine for a year, so I felt there there was no recourse to the supplier and wrote off the cost of a 2-year-old laptop which had, as you must know, cost me over £1000 new. With this experience I would not use a charger from BangGood.

I've successfully used three different Belkin chargers with my MacBooks. I gave links to them in this previous post and see that one of them is currently only £11 on Amazon, but now find another listed which is 27W and only about £12. The packaging of the Belkins I had boasted their connected equipment warranty so I have no hesitation in recommending them.
 
Quiddle said:
I always find built in ports lead to strangulation/ busted connector risks. Maybe I'm trying to rationalise the easy way.
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I have never experienced using a USB port risks the damage you always experience when using them. Perhaps you are using the USB wrongly.

Hereis a video to help.;)

 
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Hoolie said:
Well maybe, but for fitting charging outlets on the boat I'll stick with USB for now ... ...
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No-one was suggesting you abandon USB, just that you use USB C. You can plug USB A devices in USB C by buying a few cables - I got a pack of four for under a tenner. Alternatively by a handful of adaptors - which are also cheap. With USB C you'l be relatively future proofed. It can deliver more than ten times the power of USB-A. I don't have to carry chargers for my phone, tablet, computer or camera. I can simply plug them into any socket. My phone and tablet can charge in about a quarter of the USB A time on USB C. I'd have thought it a no brainer to go with the newest technology given that its backward compatible with the old. USB C can do everything that lightening can do and more.
 
I don't have to carry chargers for my phone, tablet, computer or camera. I can simply plug them into any socket. My phone and tablet can charge in about a quarter of the USB A time on USB C.
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usbC devices will still charge t just under 500mA in a USB2 power output, least the ones I measured do anyway. SInce there's no great rush on a boat I'll just stick with them , maybe one day if a 12v in USB3 charging socket comes available stick on in but no real gain for now, prob same on most boats.
 
I would bet you 570,000 microlitres of beer that quoting the battery capacity in mAh is a deliberate attempt to mislead, with the added benefit that if it is a factor of 10 too high the salesman can blame finger trouble
 
ryanroberts said:
That painfully expensive one I linked is 90W though, which is needed to run a macbook pro at full chat.
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Most people aren't maxing out their CPU for hours at a time.

Even with reasonably CPU-intensive operations my MacBook Air will stay above 90% charge for hours on end, running off a power bank or 15W Belkin, because the CPU usage is not constant it's idle half the time. But that's quite rare - only when I'm using it hard (by my standards). During normal use the battery stays constantly at 100%, even when using a 15W supply.

I believe my current MacBook Air is specified at 30W. I thought the last one was 40W or 45W (it performed the same as described above).

If you have a MacBook Pro that you want to charge on board, I'd suggest trying the 30W Belin or maybe the 45W Sandberg one recommended (not 63W) by Amulet the other week. I would be surprised if you found them unsatisfactory.
 
cmedsailor said:
Since the thread is about usb power in cabins, has anybody considered reading lights with usb port? Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Reading-Interior-Bedside-Designed-Dimmable/dp/B07K27Q2YN
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Love the idea but don't much like the 250mA draw on standby. 4 of these is a whole Amp ie 24 AHrs a day.

Leave your isolator switch on between weekends and you've got flat batteries. Or for my domestic battery, just a weekend on the hook.

Or isn't this a problem if you're already supporting electrical refrigeration (which I don't)?
 
James, I think you’ve misunderstood the specs for that light, it’s 5mA on standby, 250mA on white:
“very low power consumption: stand by - 5mA, blue - 18mA, white - 250mA”
 
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