Tying my anchor rope to the boat...

[vodzurk]

Hi All,

Another possibly dumb question to add to my list... my anchor locker doesn't seem to have a spot to secure the rope.

However, there does appear to be two plastic rectangle things, with holes in them, on each side at the rear of the locker. Are these meant to be used for tying to? Or are they for something else? The don't seem to have any other purpose except maybe holding a pole or something? They seem moulded on reasonably well... but I've no idea if they could take a load (I'd expect it to be metal, but they're just plastic). They look like they've been there since the boat was built, ~35 years ago. The boat is a Sealine 195.

I've had a stab at drawing it in 3D, to try and explain. The drawing is from inside the locker, with the lid partly open... if it helps explain.

Cheers!

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Do you mean some sort of cleat or bollard to secure the anchor to the boat when you use the anchor, or do you mean an attachment point to secure the "bitter end" of the rode to stop it all accidentally running out over the bow roller when you anchor?

 

[vodzurk]

Do you mean some sort of cleat or bollard to secure the anchor to the boat when you use the anchor, or do you mean an attachment point to secure the "bitter end" of the rode to stop it all accidentally running out over the bow roller when you anchor?

The bitter end. To stop the whole lot going over accidentally.

We've a cleat between the locker and rolley-uppy thing at the front to tie off on.

 

[simonfraser]

You need a secure stout connection to the boat.
Just in case you let go of the anchor rope you dont want the lot in the drink and not be able to stop your boat from drifting away.
Can always use a short dyneema rope to tie any chain to a metal eye, in case you want to cut it all loose.
I have an eye nut at the end of a suitable bolt in the chain locker for the above.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

A stainless U bolt with a simple backing plate through the bulkhead is the usual solution Whichard make them. You usually use just a light line that can be cut quickly and easily in case the anchor is stuck and you need to ditch it quickly.

 

[William_H]

I can't make much sense of the drawing but yes if it seems reasonably solid even if in plastic then it would be suitable for attaching the end of the anchor rope. It would be unusual to have any big load on this attachment but is there just in case your cleat attachment fails. olewill

 

[zoidberg]

'petehb' has the right idea - which is a light line tied between the 'bitter end' of your anchor warp and the hole in one of the 'plastic rectangle things'.

This should be long enough for the warp's bitter end to be brought onto the deck and an extra warp attached or the light line cut, in a 'cut and run' situation. This is NOT intended to take any load, but just to stop the loss of the whole lot if someone mindlessly just lets it all run out.

 

[Neeves]

If someone mindlessly lets the whole lot go then you have the whole load on the 'light' line. You do need to be able to cut the line at the bitter end in case you need to 'cut and run' but you also do not want the light rope snapping - so the rope attaching the bitter end to the boat, can be the rope itself or if this is going to be difficult use multiple lengths of light line roughly equal to the strength of the rode and then you can cut them one at a time.

The rode itself needs securing to a strong point, when in use, this will usually be a bow cleat or samson post if it is old enough to have one.

 

[John the kiwi]

Could the fittings be designed for supporting a danforth anchor like this?

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...97758-baja-outlaw-anchor-lockers-feb09-04.jpg

They don't look strong enough to attach the anchor rope to - even if you want a weak connection!
I would suggest fitting an eye or u bolt as suggested, but why not a cleat? Put an 8 mm rope tail on the end of your anchor rope and cleat that off inside the locker. In case of need you could quickly release it without needing to wave a sharp knife around!

 

[Neeves]

A Fortress bracket in the lid also gets my vote Very neat - more yachts should have one.

 

[thinwater]

This doesn't exactly relate to the OP's question but...

I often read that the chain should be lashed to a eye bolt or similar in the bottom of the locker. The problems is, if you need to cut this in mid-storm, in the middle of the night, in the rain with the bow crashing up and down, reaching the lashing may stink.

Instead, splice a length of 3-strand sufficient to run up through the hawse pipe and windlass, so you can cut it on deck.

 

[Neeves]

'petehb' has the right idea - which is a light line tied between the 'bitter end' of your anchor warp and the hole in one of the 'plastic rectangle things'.

This should be long enough for the warp's bitter end to be brought onto the deck and an extra warp attached or the light line cut, in a 'cut and run' situation. This is NOT intended to take any load, but just to stop the loss of the whole lot if someone mindlessly just lets it all run out.

Zoldberg made that point - but if the line is light it may simply fail and you will lose the lot.

 

[johnalison]

This doesn't exactly relate to the OP's question but...

I often read that the chain should be lashed to a eye bolt or similar in the bottom of the locker. The problems is, if you need to cut this in mid-storm, in the middle of the night, in the rain with the bow crashing up and down, reaching the lashing may stink.

Instead, splice a length of 3-strand sufficient to run up through the hawse pipe and windlass, so you can cut it on deck.

My boat came with an eye bolt at the base of the locker. My solution has been to us a longish lashing which I can reach from deck.

 

[Neeves]

We installed a 'U' bolt, with man sized backing plate and also lash allowing easy access to the lashing.

 

[Stemar]

Zoldberg made that point - but if the line is light it may simply fail and you will lose the lot.

I don't think anyone is suggesting a bit of string. A random website selling 8mm braid on braid polyester rope gives its braking strain as 2000kg, 10mm is still a light line for this purpose, but that will hold 2 1/2 tonnes. It.s a big anchor and weather I REALLY don't want to be out in that will put that sort of strain on the line

 

[Neeves]

Steve,

Fully accepted, light is a rather ambiguous term - and anyone not knowing they should secure the bitter end in the locker might misinterpret.

Jonathan

 

[noelex]

One of the concerns that is not often considered is the scenario where the anchor is accidentally dropped in deep water. The anchor and chain will develop considerable momentum as the whole length of chain runs out if, for example, the clutch is loose or the chain has jumped off the gypsy. It would not be safe to arrest the drop in such a case.


It is hard to imagine any boat hardware surviving the sudden stop at the end. I am not sure what is best solution to this (fortunately rare) problem, but as well as having a rope tail that is enough long to lead on deck so it can be cut, it may be worth making sure the rope is weaker than the under deck fitting that is securing the bitter end.

 

[RupertW]

One of the concerns that is not often considered is the scenario where the anchor is accidentally dropped in deep water. The anchor and chain will develop considerable momentum as the whole length of chain runs out if, for example, the clutch is loose or the chain has jumped off the gypsy. It would not be safe to arrest the drop in such a case.


It is hard to imagine any boat hardware surviving the sudden stop at the end. I am not sure what is best solution to this (fortunately rare) problem, but as well as having a rope tail that is enough long to lead on deck so it can be cut, it may be worth making sure the rope is weaker than the under deck fitting that is securing the bitter end.

I agree with this. Our eyebolt is at the top of the locker and easily accessible - I prefer a light line that would take a reasonable load but not the full load of an anchored boat and would snap before the fitting. Getting the boat away from a dangerous snagged situation in a hurry worries me more than losing an anchor and chain.

I can't see the load of 80m of 10mm chain and a 20kg anchor hanging down in very deep water being even close to the normal strains of anchoring in moderate winds but either way the bitter end is for cutting away not for taking load so I wouldn't set it up ever for that load.

 

[Neeves]

One of the concerns that is not often considered is the scenario where the anchor is accidentally dropped in deep water. The anchor and chain will develop considerable momentum as the whole length of chain runs out if, for example, the clutch is loose or the chain has jumped off the gypsy. It would not be safe to arrest the drop in such a case.


/QUOTE]

Why not tighten the clutch (slowly), static load specs on a 8mm windlass can be around 1.2t.

You are not likely to experience a 1.2t snatch load in a yacht using 8mm chain.

 

[LadyInBed]

'petehb' has the right idea - which is a light line tied between the 'bitter end' of your anchor warp and the hole in one of the 'plastic rectangle things'.

This should be long enough for the warp's bitter end to be brought onto the deck and an extra warp attached or the light line cut, in a 'cut and run' situation. This is NOT intended to take any load, but just to stop the loss of the whole lot if someone mindlessly just lets it all run out.

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