Two stroke oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter dsw
  • Start date Start date
depending on engine there can be quite a lot of differences

EFI , Optimax, (E-tec??) etc (modern) 2 stroke engines use (and need) very expensive oils

older "small" aux 2-stroke engines typically can run on normal 2-stroke oils

which one are you after / using ?

-Rene
 
Last edited:
Most 'marine' ones are designed for the lower temperature running of watercooled outboards. Air cooled motorbikes and so on run alot hotter.

I often find the Quicksilver marine two stroke oil is cheaper than motorbike oils, especially if you buy the big gallon cans, which are good value and its the 'proper' stuff
 
Alb40 has it right ....

Marine is TCW ... W for water cooled and supposed to run cooler .....

Other is TCA .... A for air cooled and supposed to run hotter ....

Some reckon it makes a difference, others say not. I use whatever I can lay hands on at time ...
 
Also, Watch out for non synthetic and synthetic, Overheated a seagull running on Yamahas finest synthetic, and running the yammy on 'mineral' made it sound like a bag of spanners falling down the stairs.Matt
 
WindermereColvic said:
Also, Watch out for non synthetic and synthetic, Overheated a seagull running on Yamahas finest synthetic, and running the yammy on 'mineral' made it sound like a bag of spanners falling down the stairs.Matt
Click to expand...
Ermm, if it sounds like a bag of spanners running on a mineral oil then there is play in the bearing surfaces and the engine is sha gged ( a technical term used by simpletons such as me!) If it is shagged, ie loose bearings, then running on synthetic will not make an iota of difference to the sound of it.
Stu
 
Refueler said:
Alb40 has it right ....

Marine is TCW ... W for water cooled and supposed to run cooler .....

Other is TCA .... A for air cooled and supposed to run hotter ....

Some reckon it makes a difference, others say not. I use whatever I can lay hands on at time ...
Click to expand...
So do I, use whatever comes to hand! In the good old days we used to use straight 30 engine oil, half a pint to a gallon. Tried Duckhams once but the additives used to make nice "whiskers"
Stu
 
Stu, Perhaps i used too colorful a metaphor. Engine (of about 150 hours) runs fine on Yamaha 2t oil, but when given 'outboard oil', mineral, water-cooled, cant remember the spec though, definitely didn't run quite right, similar sorta noise you get to running with the choke on, so maybe it was a mixture thing, i duno, but im not risking 2rd party oil again for a while. Don't worry, the Diesel lump still gets whatever SAE 15W40 is cheapest in the garage ;)
 
WindermereColvic said:
Stu, Perhaps i used too colorful a metaphor. Engine (of about 150 hours) runs fine on Yamaha 2t oil, but when given 'outboard oil', mineral, water-cooled, cant remember the spec though, definitely didn't run quite right, similar sorta noise you get to running with the choke on, so maybe it was a mixture thing, i duno, but im not risking 2rd party oil again for a while. Don't worry, the Diesel lump still gets whatever SAE 15W40 is cheapest in the garage ;)
Click to expand...
Aha, understand now. Another anecdote, racing bikes back in the 70s, mates had Yam aircooled 2 strokes, they used to mix the 2 stroke with scientific precision, one of their mates used to add a bit more oil to make sure and was surprised when he had numerous pistons holed. It was because the extra oil was effectively causing a weak mixture. Discuss!
Stu
 
I use Quick Silver TCW3, bought 2 litres when I bought the OB.
It was the recommended oil by manufacturer (Any Tohatsu derivative/badged OB)

The guys that I bought the OB from said that they would have recommend QS any way as they also have their own boats and only use QS in their two strokers.
 
skipper_stu said:
Aha, understand now. Another anecdote, racing bikes back in the 70s, mates had Yam aircooled 2 strokes, they used to mix the 2 stroke with scientific precision, one of their mates used to add a bit more oil to make sure and was surprised when he had numerous pistons holed. It was because the extra oil was effectively causing a weak mixture. Discuss!
Stu
Click to expand...

Yes, I've heard that too, from Kart racers. The theory is that it's supposed to run on an air:fuel ratio of "x:1" and if you put too much oil in the mix, what it's actually bruning is "x : (1-y)", where Y is the extra oil that (obviously) isn't fuel! Seemed to make sense to me!
 
Avocet said:
Yes, I've heard that too, from Kart racers. The theory is that it's supposed to run on an air:fuel ratio of "x:1" and if you put too much oil in the mix, what it's actually bruning is "x : (1-y)", where Y is the extra oil that (obviously) isn't fuel! Seemed to make sense to me!
Click to expand...

In the old days when I ran my Aerokart Class 1 jobbie ....

Ken-myGokart.jpg


before they started getting strict on fuel mix etc. - I used to pep up my fuel with methanol .... had to give it a slight increase in oil to compensate the higher burn temp.

Later when they clamped down on additions to fuel - I used less oil in the mix than recc'd by Villiers. The 9E3 engine was rated for 25-1 ... I ran it on more like 35-1 for race, but back on 25-1 for practice / setting up.

Wish I had that Kart now !! Have just the place for it to have some fun ...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top