TV and Volts

jcwads

jcwads

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Hi All

My cockpit TV needs replacing for several reasons. It is a 20inch Akura TV/DVD combo. It's a bulky thing!

I am replacing it with a light weight LED TV. However I see that the Akura has a 12v connection (I did not realise TVs could come with that). I am totally amateur with electrics but is there a way to get a normal 240v TV you could get from a Currys et al wired up to a 12v system?

Thanks
 
jcwads said:
Hi All

My cockpit TV needs replacing for several reasons. It is a 20inch Akura TV/DVD combo. It's a bulky thing!

I am replacing it with a light weight LED TV. However I see that the Akura has a 12v connection (I did not realise TVs could come with that). I am totally amateur with electrics but is there a way to get a normal 240v TV you could get from a Currys et al wired up to a 12v system?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Check the 240v AC consumption figures for the TV you want and buy a small inverter to supply it. It means buying another bit of kit but will make the choice of TV a lot wider.
 
jcwads said:
Hi All

My cockpit TV needs replacing for several reasons. It is a 20inch Akura TV/DVD combo. It's a bulky thing!

I am replacing it with a light weight LED TV. However I see that the Akura has a 12v connection (I did not realise TVs could come with that). I am totally amateur with electrics but is there a way to get a normal 240v TV you could get from a Currys et al wired up to a 12v system?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Many TVs actually come with an adapter which converts 240V AC to something like 14V or 19V DC..... you can tell by looking at the back of the TV in the store and looking at the connector where the power goes in. If it's a bit wide, with two prongs, it's most likely AC into the TV. If its a single tube type connector, its most likely DC into the TV. Somewhere near where the power goes in, it will tell you the voltage. I have a Samsung 22" which takes 14V, and have had a LG24" which takes 19V. At home I have a Sony 43" which takes 19V.

I feed the Samsung via a 12V adapter I found on ebay. I think I feed it with 15V, rather than 14V, but it's worked fine for about 5 years.

I have also got a 22" Samsung which is actually fed 240V via an inverter. Because I dont want the inverter on 24/7, I find it a pain in the neck to turn on the inverter every time I want to turn on the TV - not a big deal in the scheme of things, but irritating.

I think the Samsung 24H390S has a DC supply, so i may replace my 240V TV with this one.
 
As Richard says, a lot of Samsung TV's have an external 14v input. However it will run absolutely fine off of a 12v socket with no special wiring as I have done for the last three years on our standard Samsung.

Your battery system varies between 12v and 14.7v anyway. Keep it simple.
 
ctva said:
As Richard says, a lot of Samsung TV's have an external 14v input. However it will run absolutely fine off of a 12v socket with no special wiring as I have done for the last three years on our standard Samsung.

Your battery system varies between 12v and 14.7v anyway. Keep it simple.
Click to expand...

Correct! Before finding an adapter, I ran the Samsung directly from the boat supply for a couple of years, and all was fine - so it was definitely getting between about 12V and 15V at the extremes.
 
ctva said:
As Richard says, a lot of Samsung TV's have an external 14v input. However it will run absolutely fine off of a 12v socket with no special wiring as I have done for the last three years on our standard Samsung.

Your battery system varies between 12v and 14.7v anyway. Keep it simple.
Click to expand...

This is what used to be fitted in new Fairlines, all worked fine, I also have them on ours.
 
Thanks All.

Sounds straightforward enough. Incidentally the 24H390S is the exact TV I wanted to purchase anyway. Job done!
 
Samsung tend to have voltage protection built into the main supply power board so you can slightly over power them as it is on the DC side.
 
Apologies as mine is posting before I finish typing.

In most cases I would use voltage stabilisation using a dc/dc convertor as this prevents the voltage surges and damage it does.

Posted on Mapis M post about sound bars where you can find more details.
 
Something like this from amazon will give you a good regulated 12v and up to 4a, will take in anything from 10v up to 36v and its waterproof

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y52C65W/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06Y52C65W&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=8e5be0e3-b258-4b06-8b6e-695b24f935a4&pf_rd_r=NVW6Y4SBNJ6EVG2CAB2Y&pd_rd_wg=erAQ2&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=QvhlZ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=dd1d2e18-c507-11e8-a2fd-275bb6b0876a

If you want simple USB power so 5V -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cocar-Direct-Converter-Supply-Charger/dp/B01J1NBBE0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1538349899&sr=8-8&keywords=5v+regulator

or if you need a specific voltage and not worried about waterproof, then something like this can provide what ever you need

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Droking-Converter-Buck-Boost-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B07GFBY9SN/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538349796&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=12v+adjustable+regulator&psc=1

DC voltage is lovely, you can step up and down as you need.

If it requires more amps, there will be a regulator out there that will deliver what you need. Just look at the ratings on either the TV or the power brick that comes with it, but only buy one with a power brick, not a single power lead. A single power lead (figure of 8 or kettle lead, means it needs 240v in and built in regulator so will need an inverter)
 
Last edited:
Richard10002 said:
Correct! Before finding an adapter, I ran the Samsung directly from the boat supply for a couple of years, and all was fine - so it was definitely getting between about 12V and 15V at the extremes.
Click to expand...

Just resurrecting this thread, but if the Samsung worked ok for a couple of years why did you get the adaptor? Just asking as I have wired in my Samsung into the 12v system and it works fine. So not sure why an adaptor is needed? (bit of an amateur myself)..
 
jcwads said:
Just resurrecting this thread, but if the Samsung worked ok for a couple of years why did you get the adaptor? Just asking as I have wired in my Samsung into the 12v system and it works fine. So not sure why an adaptor is needed? (bit of an amateur myself)..
Click to expand...

Merely that It didn’t feel right to run something that seemed to require a steady 14v at a variable voltage. I truly don’t know the rights and wrongs of it :)
 
jcwads said:
Just resurrecting this thread, but if the Samsung worked ok for a couple of years why did you get the adaptor? Just asking as I have wired in my Samsung into the 12v system and it works fine. So not sure why an adaptor is needed? (bit of an amateur myself)..
Click to expand...

Because battery voltage fluctuates and a 12 volt battery is nominally around 12.6 volts at full charge but can be as high as 12.8 volts, if the engine is run with a 12 volt alternator the voltage regulator is machine sensed and can put out as much as 14.6 volts before it limits the voltage and this can damage the televisions among certain makes.
 
If you run a generator then things can become complex as cheaper units have very poor voltage regulation on the 12 volt side (if they have this) and when we tested several about a year ago we found that some were peaking above 19 volts and fluctuating wildly, so caution is to be observed and saving your TV is cheap when compared to the price of a new one.
 
Assassin said:
Because battery voltage fluctuates and a 12 volt battery is nominally around 12.6 volts at full charge but can be as high as 12.8 volts, if the engine is run with a 12 volt alternator the voltage regulator is machine sensed and can put out as much as 14.6 volts before it limits the voltage and this can damage the televisions among certain makes.
Click to expand...

The TV in question runs off a 14V supply, so it was actually the 12v which was of some concern, rather than the higher voltages of 14v or 15v when charging.

As stated, it came to no harm over a couple of years of regular use with a direct feed from the variable boat supply, rather than a regulated supply.
 
Thanks for all info on this thread. Bought one of these -https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07BHN3LTB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was getting a bit of feedback on the TV sound, and after fitting it, and making the TV connection 19v it is working perfectly. Pre-season job 1 of 100 done.
 
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