Treatment of new wood

[Gordonmc]

I took a deep breath at the weekend and started pulling off a section of rubbing strake which was showing obvious signs of decay. Pulling off is a bit strong... a gentle nudge and it crumbled away to soggy pulp. In all 4.5 metres of it.

The next suprise was to find it wasn't teak as I thought from the weathering of the exposed bits... it is mahogany. The rotten bit amounts to 25% of the total length, so new stuff will be scarfed onto old sections. I will clean up the old stuff to see if I can hope to match it. I have doubts.

What I need to know is whether I should treat the new wood with anything before fitting. What about CPES on the hull-side? I intend putting a bead of Sikaflex on before screwing down.

 

[Peterduck]

I'm sure that a couple of coats of saturating epoxy resin [e.g. International's "Everdure"] would help a lot to prevent the formation of rot in the future. The bedding in Sikaflex would also be of help.
Peter.

 

[ianwright]

CPES?

Can you get it in the UK?
I had the idea that only three people on the WoodenBoat bb used it. A different three to those who are anointing their teak, their toes and their sweaty parts with anti-freeze.

IanW.

Vertue 203, Patience

 

[Adrian_Morgan]

UCP

I swear by Universal Clear Primer by International. Not cheap, but you can thin it down with No 9 thinners and a small tin will last a long time (if properly sealed). It sticks like superglue, which is essentially what it is. Dries much quicker than epoxy and much easier to use. Two coats of that on your mahogany, then as many coats of varnish as you can be bothered to apply will last for years. UCP doesn't like sun light, hence the varnish.Try Ravillak or Epifanes, something dark and Tung oil rich. Magic stuff and the smell's addictive... and probably lethal.

 

[PBrooks]

You can get CPES in the UK - though imported from the European distributor in Sweden. I've used it on new build (as a pre-coat for epoxy) and on my father's clinker boat (circa 1950) - it's very good at what it says it will do. Try this source: IMMAC Skandinavien AB Box 57 240 13 Genarp Sweden
Phone 040-482184 Fax 040-480880
e-mail: info@remaljeringsbolaget.com
This may be out of date, but if it doesn't work, let me know as I have a more up to date e-mail from him on my laptop.
Best regards
Paul

 

[BrendanS]

Might be a silly question, but what about the wood hardener that is used to firm up wet/dry rot in household applications.

A carpenter used it on a huge wooden bay window of mine that had suffered from water getting under the gloss, and he swears by it. Treated the rotten wood once he'd scrapped out the worst, and also treated the new replacement wood. Says that no wood treated with it ever suffers again. Can get it in any DIY shop, so probably cheaper than marine alternatives.

 

[wjh]

We own a Alfred Mylne ,hull made of mahogany planking.
Two seasons ago we decided for Deksolje D1 + D2.
It is very easy to apply, stands up very good and most of all very easy in repairs. Perfect match in. On top of that, Sikaflex of which I am not a satisfied user, or other kits adhere very well to D1 oiled surfaces.
Regards Willem

 

[burgundyben]

Blakes woodseal

My Hunstman has much new timber, all of which I have given 2 cats of blakes woodseal, not cheap but soaks in well, stick like shite to a lanket AND its got anti bacterial additives.

Hope this helps.

BB


For sale, 1970 Triumph Spitfire-sold, 1947 Lambretta, 1922 Great grandmother, PM for details.

 

[ccscott49]

Used for boats aswell, "Gitrot" wonderful styuff, but not sure as a pre-treatment, The CPEs stuff, is wonderful! As is the blakes product.