Trailer woes...

[citygent111]

Afternoon all, looking for some advice with our trailer please.

It's an SBS 2500 roller trailer. Was supplied when the boat was new in 2009, and I suspect not used a great deal as both previous owners were berthed on a marina.

I'm considering bringing the boat home for winter so I can tinker with a few things, but the trailer definitely needs some attention before I do!

Firstly - the tyres. According to the date stamp on the side, they seem to be original too - manufactured date is week 11 2008!!!! Cracked is not the word, so they will all be replaced.

The brake drums rotate ok, if not a little grating, and it holds fine when the handbrake is applied. The bigger issue I have is this - when towing her to the marina, the trailer seemed really "heavy" when slowing down/braking. I'm used to towing a caravan of a similar weight, but there was a definite difference.

I've had a good look at the drawbar where the hitch connects, and it looks to be completely seized up. That would explain the heavy sensation when braking, as it means the trailer isnt braking and so only the car brakes are slowing us down. I brake a LOT early than needed to anticipate it.

How can I deal with the seized drawbar? I'm considering removing the hitch head, and whacking it with a sledgehammer, but I'll probably knock it in and it won't come out again!!

If anyone has any pointers, I'd be very grateful. Thanks

 

[KevinV]

I wouldn't go hitting stuff, sod's law says you'll distort something.

How heavy a trailer is it? The brakes will be adjusted for coping with it laden, so may not budge when just driving it around empty. Disconnect the brake linkage from the towbar and check again if it moves.

If the towbar IS seized; On all of my trailers there's a grease nipple for lubing the sliding section - if there isn't then I'd start by slathering some oil on and walking away for a day, repeat for a week. Reverse the trailer gently into something solid. Tie the the trailer to the solid object and pull forward again, gently. This has always worked for me.

Slight graunch from drums is to be expected - almost certainly just surface rust. IF they are not sealed bearings then a good squirt of grease is in order for those too. I'd repeat this after driving the trailer a few miles - the old grease will be pretty solid, even if the trailer has never been dunked. Check the temperature of the bearings after a few miles laden too, bring the grease gun with you.

Others will no doubt have other approaches

 

[citygent111]

Thanks Kevin, not sure on weight but its a twin axle heavy bugger, so you could be right on that. I was trying to push it in just with body weight, so for an almost 2 ton laden trailer I guess it ought not to move with just my knees pushing it!! There are two grease nipples actually so will invest in a grease gun - are they a universal size? I've never had to grease nipples before (well, I did once, but that's a different story.....!) I didn't realise they were for grease actually, I thought they were just little nuts to release something underneath!

Bearing are definitely sealed - one of SBS' selling points. I like the idea of reversing into something solid -not sure what/where though. Don't think the Mrs will thank me for tying it to the front door!!

Some great advice, thanks mate appreciate it

 

[KevinV]

- are they a universal size?

Yes

FWIW, my boat trailers are both SBS - great quality and fabulous service - they can supply all correct parts from the serial number (bearings and brake cables in my case)

 

[rogerthebodger]

Yes

FWIW, my boat trailers are both SBS - great quality and fabulous service - they can supply all correct parts from the serial number (bearings and brake cables in my case)

Not always

And different types

The slide on grease nipple require a different head on the grease gun

 

[citygent111]

I'll nip out with a ruler!

 

[citygent111]

 

[citygent111]

The little ball valve looks like it could do with a squirt of WD40 too!

 

[KevinV]

Not always

And different types

The slide on grease nipple require a different head on the grease gun

Every day's a school day, thanks

 

[ProDave]

A twin axle trailer will feel a lot heavier than a single which I suspect your caravan is? When I had a twin axle trailer for a not very heavy boat, I always found towing that was a lot less comfortable that towing a heavier but single axle caravan. When you go over a bump or through a pot hole one axle will go up while the other goes down transferring (or removing) weight from the tow hitch. It always pitched much more than the caravan.

It is also important to find the "rest" height of the tow hitch on a twin axle trailer (wind the jockey wheel off the ground and see where it sits) I found mine sat higher than the tow ball, so for the duration of ownership I had a "drop plate" and a second tow ball to give a higher tow ball for the boat trailer.

 

[footsoldier]

The little ball valve looks like it could do with a squirt of WD40 too!

Or Plusgas if you want to free it off, WD40 is not intended for that.

I really would take the opportunity to check out the bearings - 'sealed' means zilch if they have been dunked is saltwater by a previous owner.

 

[oldharry]

Re the possibly seized twobar braking mechanism. On a 2 ton trailer you are unlikely to be abe to even begin to compress the spring manually. But check to see if you can rotate it at all, there should be a some slight movement if its free. Try it on your caravan hitch to get the feel of a working one.

 

[citygent111]

Re the possibly seized twobar braking mechanism. On a 2 ton trailer you are unlikely to be abe to even begin to compress the spring manually. But check to see if you can rotate it at all, there should be a some slight movement if its free. Try it on your caravan hitch to get the feel of a working one.

Thank you - a good idea!

 

[citygent111]

Or Plusgas if you want to free it off, WD40 is not intended for that.

I really would take the opportunity to check out the bearings - 'sealed' means zilch if they have been dunked is saltwater by a previous owner.

I'd never heard of Plusgas - thank you! Another item in my Amazon basket!! No idea how to access check the bearings - I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty though, don't suppose there's a guide anywhere I can follow?

 

[nevis768]

U tube is good for trailer service advice

 

[citygent111]

U tube is good for trailer service advice

Yeah I've trawled youtube but all seem to be american videos and their set up is different! I'll keep looking though, just trying to find some brakes that look like mine!!!

 

[penberth3]

The little ball valve looks like it could do with a squirt of WD40 too!

Good idea. Then give the ball a gentle poke with a small screwdriver or something similar. It should press down and spring back.

 

[penberth3]

I'd never heard of Plusgas - thank you! Another item in my Amazon basket!! No idea how to access check the bearings - I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty though, don't suppose there's a guide anywhere I can follow?

Save your money, WD40 will be fine for that job. Plusgas can be better for really rusty bolts.

Bearings will be similar to front wheels on any REAR wheel drive car, e.g. Morris Minor. Any old Haynes manual will show you. If you haven't done it before get some help or advice. Worst case is wheels can fall off if you get it wrong!

 

[greeny]

Plusgas. A blast from the past. The solution to all the rusty bolts on the refinery where I served my time. It even got me home a few times when my apprentice salary didn't last to put fuel in my bantam to get me home.

 

[ghostlymoron2]

I'd never heard of Plusgas - thank you! Another item in my Amazon basket!! No idea how to access check the bearings - I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty though, don't suppose there's a guide anywhere I can follow?

I've freed off all sorts of stuff with WD40 although many old mechanics say 'it is only a water dispersant'. Plusgas is better of course but not so versatile.