Trailer breakaway cable

[ridgy]

So I have a caravan and am familiar with how modern breakaway cables work but not sure what to do with this older trailer coupling.

It seems unlikely that the handbrake would stay applied when operated by a normal cable. I would fit one anyway just to deter a passing traffic policeman from taking an interest but obviously a working arrangement would be better.

 

[Refueler]

Typical older setup as you are aware.

Lift the tab just behind the hitch itself to allow the trailer braking to stop over-runs by hitch pushing on the handbrake lever ...
But dropped in place as the position in photo - it allows you to reverse the trailer by car ...

Breakaway on this sort of hitch is actually not so easy as the handbrake lever needs to be able to go on / off as the car pulls / slows ... if you put a cable to the bottom of lever so it pulls handbrake on .. it would need the pawl to drop in place to keep the brake on ... Which is not possible to allow you to tow ... the pawl for operation is usually flipped over and to 180 deg away from the notches.

As far as I remember - when these were current - the requirement was for braked trailer to stop it pushing the car forward in event of hard stop. I do not remember it requiring brake to lock on in event of breakaway. I've just looked through my old 1988 Copy of Caravan Towing .......... yes I was not only a boater - but had caravans as well ...
It only talks about Running and Parking Brake - which is what you have. For breakaway all it says -

If a breakaway safety mechanism is used, the cable between the car and the caravan must be firmly anchored so that trailer brakes are pulled on immediately if the two part.

Nothing else !! I would assume then that they think the cable or chain should be enough to cause car to slow and you to understand that somethings happened ?

I have to say that I had cable to the handbrake on my boat trailers and as above - it would never have locked on but would have pulled brake on if hitch came off ...
I cannot recall any other mechanism fitted to all the trailers I had .. caravan and boat ...

 

[rogerthebodger]

On both my braked car trailer and my non braked boat trailer I have a chain welded to the drawbar of the trailer that passover the tow bar ball on the car with a twist in the chain. The tow hitch is attaches onto the ball for towing.

This is not attached to the trailer brake lever as you say the trailer brake would not stay on.

The way we do it is to ensure that if the hitch came off the ball that the trailer will still be attached to the car and cannot just run out of control across the road.

This shows how we use a safety chain. This guy had his hitch bolt break so the chain would not help.

 

[ridgy]

Ok thanks guys as I suspected it wasn't designed to have an arrangement like the modern alko system.

I'll put a chain on to at least keep it captive.

 

[VicS]

So I have a caravan and am familiar with how modern breakaway cables work but not sure what to do with this older trailer coupling.

It seems unlikely that the handbrake would stay applied when operated by a normal cable. I would fit one anyway just to deter a passing traffic policeman from taking an interest but obviously a working arrangement would be better.

Mine is like yours. It's never had any sort of break away cable/ safety chain


But you ought to fix that catch on the handle so that it springs back to lock the handle down

 

[Refueler]

Correct ...

Just note that the chain should be secure and strong enough to really jolt the car and cause it to slow. Its unlikely the trailer brakes could stop the car ... but certainly enough for you to feel a big jolt and know somethings happened.

I have similar on my box trailer - but no over-run brake :

I don't see any point in twisting the chain as it lays in the U of the tow bar very nicely anyway.

If you want to see a really old design of trailer hitch ..... this is for the Albatross Trailer that has a Krim motor boat on it ...

The hitch is a metal block with a ball socket welded into the front. A hole is then drilled and tapped so a bolt can be screwed in to lock the ball in the socket ... you screw in till bolt hits the narrow neck under the ball - then back off 1 turn. Then a locking nut is wound to prevent the bolt from undoing ... bloody awful !!

Luckily you don't see those anymore !! In fact I don't think the authorities would issue inspection ticket on it here now .. yes - in Latvia we have separate registration, insurance and technical inspection (MOT) every year on trailers same as cars - AND road tax.

 

[Refueler]

Going back to the photo after reading VicS post - yes I agree as well ... obviously an over zealous paint job has gummed up the safety catch !

I notice actually you have a chain mounting ... and what looks like a broken link .....

 

[[159032]]

The current regulations are as such (but only relate to trailers manufactured after 29/10/2012). The unbraked trailer bit was always the same.

Unbraked trailers must have a stout secondary coupling, such as a chain, which is connected securely to the towing vehicle when it is being towed. The secondary coupling must be tight enough to prevent the trailer's tow hitch from hitting the ground if the vehicle becomes uncoupled.

Braked trailers must be fitted with hydraulically damped coupling and auto reverse brakes to give braking efficiencies required by EEC Directive 71/320. All wheels must be braked. Braked trailers must be fitted with a breakaway cable. This must be attached to the towing vehicle in such a manner so that, should the trailer become detached, the breakaway cable will operate the trailer's brakes. It is not advisable to connect the breakaway cable to the towball itself, unless it cannot be avoided. Most tow bars have either a drilled hole, or pigtail attachment, specifically intended to accept the breakaway cable's spring clip.

Braked trailers must be fitted with a parking brake that operates on at least two road wheels on the same axle.

 

[[159032]]

Correct ...

Just note that the chain should be secure and strong enough to really jolt the car and cause it to slow. Its unlikely the trailer brakes could stop the car ... but certainly enough for you to feel a big jolt and know somethings happened.

I have similar on my box trailer - but no over-run brake :

I don't think the authorities would issue inspection ticket on it here now .. yes - in Latvia we have separate registration, insurance and technical inspection (MOT) every year on trailers same as cars - AND road tax.

Do they approve a carbine hook as a connector? I pulled one of those out straight once whilst manoeuvring a trailer. They have no strength at all.

.

 

[Refueler]

The current regulations are as such (but only relate to trailers manufactured after 29/10/2012). The unbraked trailer bit was always the same.

Having given up towing in UK some time ago ... interesting to read that. So in effect IF OP's trailer was built after 2012 - it should have a breakaway brake mechanism, because he has a trailer braking system ... but if prior 2012 ... the chain is OK.

 

[Refueler]

Do they approve a carbine hook as a connector? I pulled one of those out straight once whilst manoeuvring a trailer. They have no strength at all.

.

That was from factory ... but its only a 750kg max trailer ... TBH - when I saw that - I remarked to seller about it ... all he said was - that's what they fit ... CSDD Technical Inspection accepted it when presented ..

 

[[159032]]

Having given up towing in UK some time ago ... interesting to read that. So in effect IF OP's trailer was built after 2012 - it should have a breakaway brake mechanism, because he has a trailer braking system ... but if prior 2012 ... the chain is OK.

I'm sure the pre 2012 regs required you to attach a cable to the bottom of the handbrake lever so that it pulled directly on the brake cable. As has been said, once you slow the towing vehicle down more than the trailer it will slacken and you'll get punted up the back.

 

[Refueler]

I'm sure the pre 2012 regs required you to attach a cable to the bottom of the handbrake lever so that it pulled directly on the brake cable. As has been said, once you slow the towing vehicle down more than the trailer it will slacken and you'll get punted up the back.

Shouldn't .... when the car slows - the hitch moves back and presses on the handbrake lever applying the brake ..... its why the small U plate is dropped over the shaft of the hitch to allow you to reverse the trailer without brakes coming on.

 

[[159032]]

I just found this, in passing.
If you build your own trailer it has to pass an IVA test (That will be £70, sir).

This is how far-end-of-a-fart that is Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) for light trailers: help to get a pass

 

[[159032]]

Shouldn't .... when the car slows - the hitch moves back and presses on the handbrake lever applying the brake ..... its why the small U plate is dropped over the shaft of the hitch to allow you to reverse the trailer without brakes coming on.

You've had a brain fart.
The cable is to control the trailer in the event it disconnects from the towing vehicle. So the over-run brakes will not be activated.

 

[Refueler]

You've had a brain fart.
The cable is to control the trailer in the event it disconnects from the towing vehicle. So the over-run brakes will not be activated.

As has been said, once you slow the towing vehicle down more than the trailer it will slacken and you'll get punted up the back.

Sorry I read that as the over-run brakes not working - now I go back and read again ... I get what you were talking about now - the breakaway cable slacking ............... which as you noted is what I was saying back in post #2 ...

 

[ridgy]

Ok guys I have the answer now. The alko cable is intended to pull the handbrake on then snap leaving the car free and making the trailer/caravan come to a quick stop.

In this case I will put a chain on the handbrake similar to the alko style but it won't snap so that in the event of a failure will apply the trailer brakes such that the car will be braked slowly. Obviously if the car brakes then the hitich goes in to the bumper but better than the alternative.

Regarding the hitch safety catch, it was barely functional before painting. The eagle eyed will spot the small hole to the right which we drilled to put a bolt through whilst towing.

The thing that looks like a chain attachment I believe is for some sort of prehistoric stabiliser that I dont intend on using. I will fit the safety chain through the bottom of the handbrake ala alko.

 

[Refueler]

Sounds good ...

 

[halcyon]

The current regulations are as such (but only relate to trailers manufactured after 29/10/2012). The unbraked trailer bit was always the same.

In passing brake directive 71/320 came out in 1971, and was introduced into the UK under the 1973 Road Traffic Regulations. I was designing trailer under then, and spent 18 months working on EEC ( EU ) Type approval, we also had EEC trailer type apploval. What happened after I left the industry I do not know, would appear we went backwards.

Brian

 

[Refueler]

As an aside ... its an interesting item - trailer regulations.

Here as in many Eu and other countries - trailers have separate registration, technical inspection, insurance, number plates etc. This makes a bit of a 'niggle' for any trailer from the UK.
UK has as I believe now - still not separated trailer from being an extension of the car on the road. This means that any trailer from UK coming to ie Latvia has a short period of exemption - but then must submit for inspection and authorised use. This also means that trailers must have manufacturers data plate fixed to it.
They are very strict on it here ...
Pal of mine in the CSDD (Latvian Inspection) was amazed when I described UK's trailers and lack of inspection. Especially when I talked about even the large caravans .....