Trailer breakaway cable

Why are you convinced that the cable will break? It's not having to lift the trailer and payload, just apply the brakes.

If as shown there is no secondary connection of trailer to vehicle - the length of breakaway cable would be too short to cause trailer brake to operate and allow time for vehicle to stop once driver realises somethings wrong.

The breakaway cable is not capable of having such weight till trailer and vehicle stopped. Think of the snatch load ... it will be huge ! even on a small trailer.

OH and let me correct someone elses misrepresentation of my posts ... because I say a Breakaway cable is different to a secondary connection - the chain - does NOT automatically say both should be fitted. If anyone cares to go back - they will find my post saying that my trailers did not have both fitted ....
 
I find now that the breakaway cable is expected to break.
That sounds a bit bonkers to me.


One of the slightly less interesting videos I have seen.

.
 
Yes Brian but what keeps the brake on once the breakaway cable has broken away.

It cannot be the handbrake which in my setup is also operated by the overrun coupling.

The last trailer I built in the UK must have been late 70's early 80's

Your coupling was out of date in the early 1970's, it goes back to the days of few trailers going at a low speed. Spring control was very basic but all we had, with the advent o gas filled dampers the world of trailer rakes changed. The only thing we used them on was mobile air compresses, even these were being replaced with damper type over-run hitches by mid 1970.

Fit a new coupling with modern damping on over-run.

Brian
 
I find now that the breakaway cable is expected to break.
That sounds a bit bonkers to me.


One of the slightly less interesting videos I have seen.

.

Yes the breakaway cable is supposed to break, all part of type approval of overrun braking systems.

The Yanks were keen on safety chains and little braking in the old days for boat trailers, but did not meet UK regs. We had chains on air braked commercial trailers from memory.

Brian
 
Your coupling was out of date in the early 1970's, it goes back to the days of few trailers going at a low speed. Spring control was very basic but all we had, with the advent o gas filled dampers the world of trailer rakes changed. The only thing we used them on was mobile air compresses, even these were being replaced with damper type over-run hitches by mid 1970.

Fit a new coupling with modern damping on over-run.

Brian

Cmon ... then show us the more modern and show how it works to hold brake on after cable breaks.

I've searched and all I can find that would lock on is an electric system used in Australia and USA - which requires modification to comply with UK rules ...
 
Last edited:
Yes Brian but what keeps the brake on once the breakaway cable has broken away.

It cannot be the handbrake which in my setup is also operated by the overrun coupling.

The last trailer I built in the UK must have been late 70's early 80's

When Harry and Ken started making your coupling you did need to fit a breakaway cable. Breakaway cables were fitted to some spring over-run hitches for A-frame couplings for caravans, these had a lever operated by over-run and a separate handbrake lever, that operated the overrun brake lever also.

Brian
 
[
How does that Energy store work to keep the brakes locked once the breakaway cable has broken.
Hi Roger
Its a powerful spring that holds the hand brake lever on once the cable has pulled it past the "overcentre" position

Reasonably well explained here

 
Gor Blimey Guv !!

It still does not answer the important question ... how does the trailer brake stay on after cable breaks ?
My Bailey caravan has a gas strut that pushes the brake on. In order to release it considerable pressure needs to be applied. When the breakaway cable operates, the handle springs up under the gas strut pressure. I have no doubt that should the coupling fail, then the brakes would be applied and stay firmly on!
 
My Bailey caravan has a gas strut that pushes the brake on. In order to release it considerable pressure needs to be applied. When the breakaway cable operates, the handle springs up under the gas strut pressure. I have no doubt that should the coupling fail, then the brakes would be applied and stay firmly on!

Good ... as with the Energy store ... we are now getting info to show that it can be done.

As I posted - my caravaning ended in the 90's and we did not have any system to lock the brakes on, other than the ratchet pawl ... all they did was to brake as long as cable was tensioned .. and as far as I remember - my last van with the auto reversing brakes was about the best then !!

Just a comment ... those auto brakes to allow you to reverse the van were very temperamental ! You had to ease the car so slow back to get the van to NOT lock its brakes ... I always reckoned the locking U plate on the hitch shaft was much better ! Number times I'd start backing up and trailer would lock ...
 
My Bailey caravan has a gas strut that pushes the brake on. In order to release it considerable pressure needs to be applied. When the breakaway cable operates, the handle springs up under the gas strut pressure. I have no doubt that should the coupling fail, then the brakes would be applied and stay firmly on!
My Drascombe trailer has a system like that. It works quite well ... but it has auto-reverse brakes which (duh) don't work in reverse, whether the impetus comes from the car or gravity. In other words, you can't use the brake handle to control it down a launching ramp and the gas strut won't stop it from rolling downhill if it breaks away on a slope.
 
Just a comment ... those auto brakes to allow you to reverse the van were very temperamental ! You had to ease the car so slow back to get the van to NOT lock its brakes ... I always reckoned the locking U plate on the hitch shaft was much better ! Number times I'd start backing up and trailer would lock ...

I never understood how auto-reverse brakes worked until I got one and opened up a hub to find out. Basically itrelies on the braking mechanism rotating backwards and folding up slightly when the drum turns backwards. To work reliably several parts need to be able to slide or swivel freely. As you say, a U-plate is much more reliable.
 
If you have auto reverse brake drums it is essential that you fit an energy store. Without it your handbrake will not work if the trailer is parked on a slope, with the rear of the trailer facing down the incline.
 
Now we are getting somewhere ....

I agree

Vic that shows the handbrake is NOT operated by th overrun coupling but is separate. Its was I would call an over center lock which works similar to a ratched handbrake.

The main change is that the overrun coupling does not operate the brake via the handbrake lever so there must be a seperate lever to pull the brake on when the car brakes and the trailer runs forward either on a spring or damper.

It is clear from Vic's Video that the breakaway cable is connected to the separate handbrake which can have what is called an energy store but is to me just an overcenter lock.

So I understand now.

I still prefer the chain over the tow hitch as this ensures the trailer will still be attached to the car if the coupling comes adrift. There could be some improvement to ensure the chain cannot jump off the hitch as well but twisting the chain aids that anyway.
 
OK, I hadn’t realised what folks weren’t understanding about breakaway and how hand brakes are now separated from the overrun brakes. The Alko catalogue here https://www.alko-tech.com/sites/def...9418-katalog-auflaufeinrichtungen-2017-en.pdf has a number of drawing of their hitches and brake mechanisms, along with a brief explanation of the minimum requirements for braking systems.
Most of the hand brakes are, as someone has said above, over centre levers which can be activated either by hand or the breakaway cable. The ones I’m familiar with use a gas strut to hold the lever in the “brakes on“ position which requires considerable effort to move from on to off and vice versa (that’s the energy store talked about above). Some others types use a push button ratchet, but that’s prone to failure in trailers that spend much of their lives sat around doing nothing. Yet others I’ve encountered use both a gas strut and a ratchet.
Hope that helps to clear things up: if anyone is really interested, I can photo hitches and post on here next time I have reason to visit the gig trailers.
 
If you have auto reverse brake drums it is essential that you fit an energy store. Without it your handbrake will not work if the trailer is parked on a slope, with the rear of the trailer facing down the incline.

Total poppycock ! Please explain how all those 1980 's caravans with auto reverse brakes were successfully handbraked like mine ?

The handbrake when put on with trailer stopped .. means the brake shoes move out to braked without the auto reverse mechanisn having flipped over. The auto reverse can only activate when brake is NOT on and is why you have to start moving back so slow - to avoid putting the brake on ... then it flips and you can then reverse - STILL slowly.
 
Top