Trailer bearings...how do I know if they're okay? Or not?

[dancrane]

My trailer was critical to my buying the boat...or so I thought...but starting my 3rd year at the club, I'm aware that the trailer has scarcely rolled a yard since the boat took up residence.

Just the same, I don't want to discover that it's unusable when eventually I do need it. The trailer looked creaky under the boat's 150kgs, but the previous owner was happy to deliver the boat quite a distance to my club, upon it. All the same, one wheel looked significantly out of vertical, and the tyres are decidedly 20th century...and I think there's a slow puncture, though that's no sweat to sort out. There was lots of rust showing until SWMBO and I rubbed the worst off and applied Hammerite.

The thing is, everyone always seems to say their old trailer either needs new wheel-bearings, or has just had them replaced...

...so, how would I know if my bearings need renewing? Might they explain the slightly drunken-looking wheel? Thanks in advance. :encouragement:

 

[paulm299]

If you hold the tyre at the top , Try rocking it towards you , There may be small movement But if there is substantial movement the bearings are shot . It would be worth taking the grease cap off and looking at the stare of the grease .

 

[VicS]

My trailer was critical to my buying the boat...or so I thought...but starting my 3rd year at the club, I'm aware that the trailer has scarcely rolled a yard since the boat took up residence.

Just the same, I don't want to discover that it's unusable when eventually I do need it. The trailer looked creaky under the boat's 150kgs, but the previous owner was happy to deliver the boat quite a distance to my club upon it. All the same, one wheel looked significantly out of vertical, and the tyres are decidedly 20th century...and I think there's a slow puncture, though that's no sweat to sort out. The was lots of rust showing until SWMBO and I rubbed the worst off and applied Hammerite.

The thing is, everyone always seems to say their old trailer either needs new wheel-bearings, or has just had them replaced...

...so, how would I know if my bearings need renewing? Might they explain the slightly drunken-looking wheel? Thanks in advance. :encouragement:

Jack it up see if the wheels will rock on their stub axles. If they do and they are tapered roller bearings adjust until barely any slack perceptible. If ballraces are noticeably slack then they are worn,

Spin the wheel. Any roughness or noise indicates pitted bearings.


You can strip taper roller bearings out clean up and inspect. Ball races you can wash free of grease an spin/ turn and feel for any roughness.

 

[dancrane]

Thanks gents, I'll have a close look next time.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Jack it up see if the wheels will rock on their stub axles. If they do and they are tapered roller bearings adjust until barely any slack perceptible.

The official method of adjusting the front wheel bearings (taper roller) on a triumph Herald is (a) clean all the grease out (b) tighten up until the bearings just seize (c) back off one flat on the nut and mark it (d) dismantle and pack with grease (e) reassemble to the marked flat and lock with split pin. It feels very tight when you reassemble it, and may even seize, because of the grease, but it soon frees off to be just right. I have found this a useful way of setting up trailer bearings too.

I'm a great fan of replacing bearings when there is the slightest doubt - they are almost always dirt cheap. I chuck 'em if there is any visible damage at all on the races.

Scary fact: the front wheel bearings for my DS cost £400 a side.

 

[TQA]

Scary fact: the front wheel bearings for my DS cost £400 a side.

Are we talking Citroen DS?, if so you are a discerning man. I salute you for preserving her.

 

[Avocet]

+1 ! I used to have a Citroen DS! That said, the front wheelbearings on those are HUGE! I never managed to wear a set out!

 

[JumbleDuck]

Are we talking Citroen DS?, if so you are a discerning man. I salute you for preserving her.

+1 ! I used to have a Citroen DS! That said, the front wheelbearings on those are HUGE! I never managed to wear a set out!

Yup, Citroën DS and thank goodness my front wheel bearings are fine!

 

[William_H]

Definitely OP should jack the trailer on each side one at a time. Bad wheel bearings will show as excessive play of the wheel on the axle and excessive rumbling noise when rotated. We don't know if you have tapered wheel bearings as on a lot of front wheels of RWD cars. These are a really easy to disassemble clean and grease. Readjust by tightening the nut until the bearing locks up then back off a flat or 2 on the nut. Fit the split pin.
These bearings are both easy and hard to replace. The rollers and central cups are easy to replace. The outer cups however are press fittted into the hub. If the outers seem smooth then it is reasonable to replace the easy parts.
My trailer gets dunked in the water. Not often but always after a dunking I dismantle and regrese or at least check the bearings. Although they are heavily loaded one axle and 1000kg of boat becuase I only tow a short distance I am happy to live with pretty manky bearings.
However for a long high speed run you need good bearings.
Many years back my father picked up a caravan that had done hardly any miles but been there for some years. He set off to tow it home some 3000km. He only got a short distance 100k or so when one bearing overheated melted the axle the wheel cam off and started a scrub fire. I am a bit neurotic about being stranded on the road side.
Regarding tires. I think these can be just as important as bearings. They will deteriorate with age. So if you are planning any long runs get decnt tires. My trailer tires are about 3 years old now and have done nearly 10km total. They are light truck tires and mean that i have no concerns about them. The old ones were about 40 years old.
good luck olewill

 

[dancrane]

Thanks again. I haven't any idea what type of bearings mine are...I'll photo them when there's time (when I've cut back the ferns. )

 

[Neil]

Thanks again. I haven't any idea what type of bearings mine are...I'll photo them when there's time (when I've cut back the ferns. )

They will have a standard No. on the rim of the bearing race. You'll probably find you have two bearings per wheel, the outer being a taper roller. Don't buy replacements from a trailer dealer - get them at a fraction of the cost from bearing specialists. Also buy both parts - it's not too difficult to drive out the bearing seat, and it's worth doing a proper job.

 

[Neil]

Just found this thread from my old boat angling site, which still seems to be up.

http://www.boat-angling-ireland.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1949.

The bearings and stub axles are probably lighter for little fishing boats, but the principle is probably the same.

Dunking your axles in sea water every week or more, bearings and brakes need constant vigilance

 

[ghostlymoron]

I'm sorry to divert the thread slightly but the OPs question has been answered. My question is, I have a brand new trailer but didn't get them to fit a hub flushing kit. I will only be launching and recovering once a year - should I retrofit?

 

[Jabs]

Check the tyres!

If the trailer has been standing for three years, the tyres will almost certainly be shot!

Deflate and squeeze the sides together to look down the treads. You may find that the tread is delaminating.

There are as many issues with tyres as with bearings so be careful.

The wheels are often small so go round rather quickly.

Tony.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Thanks again. I haven't any idea what type of bearings mine are...I'll photo them when there's time (when I've cut back the ferns. )

I'll bet you a fiver that they are either standard 1" taper roller or rear hub bearings from a Mini. If the latter and ball races, swap 'em for Mini Cooper ones which are cheap, taper roller and much easier to adjust/service/replace.

 

[Beamishken]

Check out this item no on ebay :- 251865544347
That's the bearings fitted to most small trailers so for less than a tenner you can replace both sides & avoid any doubt
Obviously check the sizes first
If they are old mini bearings then you can get taper replacements for not much more money

 

[Sailfree]

My road trailer is only used a few times a year. First new one some 23yrs ago the bearings went. Since then I pump new grease into hub before first use each year. I pump LM grease in until lots extrude out past the seals. Wipe off excess but more comes out during use and stains the wheels.

Since doing this on last 4 new trailers ( bought with latest Wayfarer etc!) I have never had a beating problem and rust on wheels is limited by grease!

 

[ghostlymoron]

Its best if possible to remove the wheels and store them in a shed. Not only does it protect from UV so they will last indefinitely but theft is much less likely.

If the trailer has been standing for three years, the tyres will almost certainly be shot!

Deflate and squeeze the sides together to look down the treads. You may find that the tread is delaminating.

There are as many issues with tyres as with bearings so be careful.

The wheels are often small so go round rather quickly.

Tony.

 

[l'escargot]

A good indication of badly knackered bearings is having to retrieve one of your wheels from the flowerbed in Lidl's car park - don't ask how I know that...

 

[alahol2]

I'm sorry to divert the thread slightly but the OPs question has been answered. My question is, I have a brand new trailer but didn't get them to fit a hub flushing kit. I will only be launching and recovering once a year - should I retrofit?

I have a yard trolley that is used to launch and retrieve once a year. After each dunking I remove the hub and re-grease the bearings. It takes maybe a couple of hours and you get to see the actual bearings. The trolley is probably 30+ years old by now and the bearings still good. I wouldn't bother with the expense of a flushing kit, especially as you still can't be certain that the bearings are OK inside.