Total rubbish - shroud cleat - failed

Threads can be set in the print ... but they tend to be coarse / large threads .. fine ones can be done - but generally not good. The filament layers don't like them as well - so their structural strength is lacking.

The usual way to solve this ... hex holes for nuts to sit into ... oversize holes that metal thread inserts are glued into, or heat the insert and push into the hole ... the filament melts round it and cools gripping it.

Tap and Die are not good on 3D prints as it tends to tear the layers apart.

Edit : ylop beat me by seconds !!!
 
Refueler said:
I'm going to try printing the various cleat designs I've found online ... see what happens.
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Interested to see how it goes. Mine feed through the fittings on the chain plates and get tied there. I’ve been wondering if there is a near way to print a jammer there so there’s not a vulnerable sticky outybit bit on the wire.
 
ylop said:
Interested to see how it goes. Mine feed through the fittings on the chain plates and get tied there. I’ve been wondering if there is a near way to print a jammer there so there’s not a vulnerable sticky outybit bit on the wire.
Click to expand...

See the link I gave above ... the only bit on outside of the wire - is the backing plate to clamp to the wire ... two small bolt heads of course ... but they can be covered by tape if needed.

The item feels strong in hand --- 100% infill and 0.2 layer ... two perimeters .... but just wondering about the 'chafe' on the ring part ....

I may edit the design to replace the ring with another 'arm' same as other end ... to create a standard cleat style.
 
Refueler said:
See the link I gave above ... the only bit on outside of the wire - is the backing plate to clamp to the wire ... two small bolt heads of course ... but they can be covered by tape if needed.

The item feels strong in hand --- 100% infill and 0.2 layer ... two perimeters .... but just wondering about the 'chafe' on the ring part ....

I may edit the design to replace the ring with another 'arm' same as other end ... to create a standard cleat style.
Click to expand...
You are not worried about it getting caught on clothing (life jacket toggles?) etc - I guess it’s “sticky inny” rather than outy?
 
ylop said:
You are not worried about it getting caught on clothing (life jacket toggles?) etc - I guess it’s “sticky inny” rather than outy?
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The rubbish commercial cleats I bought are on the inside of shroud - so can catch things ... but I plan to have them about 'shoulder / neck' height - so out of way of most things.

The last question is which stay to fix to ... if I use Cap Shrouds - then Genny can in theory touch them ... if I use one of the other lesser stays - particularly the aft one - its clear of Genny and also anyone passing it ... not sure which yet.

Flag halyards are still not rigged - possibly this weekend if I survive the Specialist Appointment Friday ... the repair where they glued the broken vertebrae is pressing on my spinal cord and nerves ... possibility I go to Hospital - have spine 're-broken' - remove the glue to ease the pressure on cord / nerves ... then fuse the two adjacent vertebrae .....
 
Refueler said:
Flag halyards are still not rigged - possibly this weekend if I survive the Specialist Appointment Friday ... the repair where they glued the broken vertebrae is pressing on my spinal cord and nerves ... possibility I go to Hospital - have spine 're-broken' - remove the glue to ease the pressure on cord / nerves ... then fuse the two adjacent vertebrae .....
Click to expand...
Youch.
 
ylop said:
Youch.
Click to expand...

You can say that again ... in the mornings - sometimes I can hardly get out of bed - the pain is like a hot knife sticking in ... I survive on pain killers when bad ... luckily most days I can get away with just the morning tablet.

The tablets actually can affect my judgement slightly ... so I have to be careful when I take them ... and like I say - most days I do not take the strong ones !!
 
Refueler said:
The rubbish commercial cleats I bought are on the inside of shroud - so can catch things ... but I plan to have them about 'shoulder / neck' height - so out of way of most things.

The last question is which stay to fix to ... if I use Cap Shrouds - then Genny can in theory touch them ... if I use one of the other lesser stays - particularly the aft one - its clear of Genny and also anyone passing it ... not sure which yet.

Flag halyards are still not rigged - possibly this weekend if I survive the Specialist Appointment Friday ... the repair where they glued the broken vertebrae is pressing on my spinal cord and nerves ... possibility I go to Hospital - have spine 're-broken' - remove the glue to ease the pressure on cord / nerves ... then fuse the two adjacent vertebrae .....
Click to expand...
Sorry for your spine. When/how did you breack it?
 
Sandro said:
Sorry for your spine. When/how did you breack it?
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Argument with a guy .... while talking with friends after - other guy decided to restart the argument by punching me .. my shoes slipped on the wet ceramic tiles and I landed on my arse ... spine snapped.
I have felt pain before - but that was total ... my head just seemed to explode with sheer utter pain ... as Doctor said afterwards - the Spinal Cord was 'telling me something wrong' ...
 
Just taken the modified cleats of the printer .... better than expected ...

I then drilled through and thought why not try tapping a thread .... M4 ..... bolts .... works ....

I will use some Threadlock as well when fitted .. originally |I was going to melt a nut into the cleat ... but now I don't think its necessary.

Once I finish the next batch - will post some photos ..
 
I tried something like that 40 years ago and promptly decided that adding anything snaggy to the shrouds was bad. I'd rather keep it clean. If it works for you, fine, but for all the watchers, maybe it's not an upgrade. IME.
 
I too am not convinced about the 'Ring' version .... maybe if I used ASA / PetG or similar stronger filament it would be better.

The 'two arm' normal cleat design is strong though ....

I will be wrapping with Self-Amalgamating tape to 'smooth' over the bolt heads .... to stop abrading Genny ...

I could if deemed better - move the cleat to one of the lowers ... which would put it well inside away from Genny.
 
The weak point with the ones I 3D printed was the cleat to the boss. The cleat arm would break off. Tried in both PLA,ABS and PETG
 
chris-s said:
The weak point with the ones I 3D printed was the cleat to the boss. The cleat arm would break off. Tried in both PLA,ABS and PETG
Click to expand...

This can happen if the arm and boss are treated as separates in the drawing of the item. If the print run treats the the two as one and the layers run across the 'joint' as a continuous lay - then strength should be there ... but if the print run outlines / fills arm .. then outlines / fills boss - then that is a weak joint of layers adjacent. Hard to describe but hope understood.

The arms on the ones I've printed are wide at the boss and I think print run was continuous across both ... not sure as I was not watching whole print run.
But I've tried breaking in hand - and it feels pretty strong.
 
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