Tohatsu outboard problem

[Crex]

We have a Tohatsu 2-stroke 9.8hp. Running very nicely after recent service. When leaving the mooring after starting, engine was slowly reversing even though supposedly in neutral. What happened next isn't entirely clear; I think it was then put into reverse gear proper, at which point it went back much more quickly. It both caught the bottom, and was put into forward gear. Engine then cut out. At least, I think that's the order of events, it wasn't me at the tiller! Now, the gear lever is stuck in forward, and the engine won't start as we can't pull the pull cord. Any idea what's happened? I understand it's probably not good...
Thanks

 

[VicS]

We have a Tohatsu 2-stroke 9.8hp. Running very nicely after recent service. When leaving the mooring after starting, engine was slowly reversing even though supposedly in neutral. What happened next isn't entirely clear; I think it was then put into reverse gear proper, at which point it went back much more quickly. It both caught the bottom, and was put into forward gear. Engine then cut out. At least, I think that's the order of events, it wasn't me at the tiller! Now, the gear lever is stuck in forward, and the engine won't start as we can't pull the pull cord. Any idea what's happened? I understand it's probably not good...
Thanks

Maybe you have just damaged the shift mechanism by being a bit rough with it in panic.

But if you hit the bottom hard you may have done some serious damage

Hopefully this Service manual covers your engine. http://www.tohatsu.dk/forhandler/Service/Service Manual_1-2 Cylinder 2-Stroke.pdf

 

[chriss999]

My tohatsu 6 hp (4-stroke) stuck in gear this summer (which I discovered whilst motoring up to a marina pontoon- another story).
The engineer suggested it was either a bent push-rod connecting to the gear box, or an issue relating to the tilt mechanism.
As trying the tilt mechanism was easier I tried that first, and it solved the problem. Just engaged the tilt, disengaged it, and then tried the gear lever, which was magically free. I took it off the boat to do this, but doing it in situ would have saved me a bit of faff.

Just don’t force the gear lever or it may break.

Good luck!

Ps a 2-stoke might be different)

 

[Graham376]

The neutral lock can be disconnected by releasing a clip at one end. But make sure cut out key is removed when turning over in gear.

 

[Crex]

I've been looking at this more now that the outboard's ashore. The problem seems to be about halfway down the front of the shaft, where there is a connection between the upper shift rod, the lower shift rod and another rod coming down from the tilt lock, via a brass collar - I hope this makes sense, forgive the non-technical language! Anyway, the is all held together by two pins. But the upper pin is missing, with the effect that the rod coming down from the tilt lever is disconnected from the shift rod. This prevents the shift lever from being moved - when I line them up, I can move the shift lever into neutral or reverse. So next question - the lower hole has a split pin. The manual suggests that the upper hole, where the pin is missing, should have a spring pin. Is that essential, or will a split pin do?

 

[VicS]

I've been looking at this more now that the outboard's ashore. The problem seems to be about halfway down the front of the shaft, where there is a connection between the upper shift rod, the lower shift rod and another rod coming down from the tilt lock, via a brass collar - I hope this makes sense, forgive the non-technical language! Anyway, the is all held together by two pins. But the upper pin is missing, with the effect that the rod coming down from the tilt lever is disconnected from the shift rod. This prevents the shift lever from being moved - when I line them up, I can move the shift lever into neutral or reverse. So next question - the lower hole has a split pin. The manual suggests that the upper hole, where the pin is missing, should have a spring pin. Is that essential, or will a split pin do?

Maybe I am not looking at the right parts but the parts catalogue seems to show them both as spring/roll pins . https://www.tohatsuoutboardparts.co...s Catalog M8B-9.8B (2003) - (00221030-5).pdf

If split pins can be fitted without causing any problems fit them and try it. Any signs of trouble replace them with spring pins.

 

[Graham376]

Maybe I am not looking at the right parts but the parts catalogue seems to show them both as spring/roll pins . https://www.tohatsuoutboardparts.co...s Catalog M8B-9.8B (2003) - (00221030-5).pdf

If split pins can be fitted without causing any problems fit them and try it. Any signs of trouble replace them with spring pins.

+1

They should both be roll pins. Problem with split pins is that they may foul the tilt lock collar. Presumably, the circlip is still there?

 

[Crex]

+1

They should both be roll pins. Problem with split pins is that they may foul the tilt lock collar. Presumably, the circlip is still there?

So, turns out that the roll pin in the top hole is in situ, but didn't engage the hole in the upper shift rod when replaced. Mechanic has apologised and sorted this. So the tilt lock collar can pass freely over it.
It's still a split pin in the lower hole, I agree that the manual shows both should be roll pins. To my untrained eye, it looks less crucial that the collar can't pass over this lower pin, but is stuck above it - or am I missing something? And yes, circlip (I think this is what the manual calls an E-clip?) is still there, below the split pin.

 

[Graham376]

So, turns out that the roll pin in the top hole is in situ, but didn't engage the hole in the upper shift rod when replaced. Mechanic has apologised and sorted this. So the tilt lock collar can pass freely over it.
It's still a split pin in the lower hole, I agree that the manual shows both should be roll pins. To my untrained eye, it looks less crucial that the collar can't pass over this lower pin, but is stuck above it - or am I missing something? And yes, circlip (I think this is what the manual calls an E-clip?) is still there, below the split pin.

If you have split pin between the circlip and the collar, it will alter the distance of travel so, you may have a problem with the lock, depending how critical it is. Suggest for the sake of a few bob, you replace the split pin with a roll pin so you know it's right.

 

[VicS]

So, turns out that the roll pin in the top hole is in situ, but didn't engage the hole in the upper shift rod when replaced. Mechanic has apologised and sorted this. So the tilt lock collar can pass freely over it.
It's still a split pin in the lower hole, I agree that the manual shows both should be roll pins. To my untrained eye, it looks less crucial that the collar can't pass over this lower pin, but is stuck above it - or am I missing something? And yes, circlip (I think this is what the manual calls an E-clip?) is still there, below the split pin.

For what its worth an E type circlip, or simply E clip