Tohatsu 3.5 2 stroke

[Seastoke]

My engine has a very slight oil drip , do I strip it all down or just monitor , also I want to change the gearbox oil , so yes it’s easy to drain but do you top up via the level hole .

 

[DavidJ]

That the same outboard I’ve got. My oil container had a nozzel and I squeezed it in the drain hole until it came out of the level hole
If you do strip how about treating it to a new impeller

 

[DavidJ]

The reassembly of the lower leg takes some care
I lifted this from a mag many years ago and used it to refurbish mine.
Best of luck

 

[Seastoke]

Thanks for the reply , I don’t understand why you can’t top up from level hole .

 

[DavidJ]

Thanks for the reply , I don’t understand why you can’t top up from level hole .

You can but it’s just easier from the bottom and maybe from the top you might get air pockets. But in the end as long as you get the oil in it doesn’t really matter.

 

[DavidJ]

 

[limecc]

If you try to fill top down displaced air has nowhere to go and it's possible to pressurize the gearbox to the detriment of the oil seal.

Pumps are cheap and have adapters to suit most outboards. Or because it's a small engine you could patiently dribble it in and overfill it while horizontal, turn the motor upright and let the excess run out to the correct level. Just get a pump.

 

[QBhoy]

You can’t top up or fill from the top. Must be put in from the bottom.
what kind of oil drip do you reckon she has ? You mean from the gearbox or out the exhaust? If it’s out the exhaust, that would be fairly normal for a 2 stroke. It’s just unburnt oil.
as for the impeller. Some of them simply have it behind the prop. Very easy to do.

 

[Seastoke]

Not sure where the oil leak is from but defo down the bottom , could I drain the oil then fill with thin oil so I can find the leak.

 

[DavidJ]

Not sure where the oil leak is from but defo down the bottom , could I drain the oil then fill with thin oil so I can find the leak.

I think the problem would be that you won’t be able to get all the thin oil out. This would compromise the specification of the recommended oil. I don’t think anyone here would recommend this approach……but let’s see!

 

[BruceK]

Its probably leaking 2stroke oil from the exhaust. Drain it. Measure the amount drained against specified amount while checking for water ingress and refill. Replace seals while you are about it including oil screw orings. But I bet you a bottle Malbec its just unburnt 2 stroke oil in the exhaust cos you mess with that KISS carb too much.

 

[Seastoke]

Its probably leaking 2stroke oil from the exhaust. Drain it. Measure the amount drained against specified amount while checking for water ingress and refill. Replace seals while you are about it including oil screw orings. But I bet you a bottle Malbec its just unburnt 2 stroke oil in the exhaust cos you mess with that KISS carb too much.

I can pull Kad engines to bits and rebuild blindfolded , but never touched an outboard .

 

[QBhoy]

I can pull Kad engines to bits and rebuild blindfolded , but never touched an outboard .

You’ll know by the smell of it. Colour too. If it’s black and smells nice. It’s 2 stroke. If it’s horrible slimy stinky stuff. It’s gear oil. Odds on it’s just 2 stroke from exhaust

 

[Seastoke]

Well I have changed the oil today so going to give it a run then look for oil.

 

[QBhoy]

Well I have changed the oil today so going to give it a run then look for oil.

If there was no water in the oil…it’s very unlikely it was a gear oil leak.

 

[Seastoke]

If there was no water in the oil…it’s very unlikely it was a gear oil leak.

The oil was pure black , iam going to run it without the covers on , so it might be the exhaust. i will update.

 

[QBhoy]

The oil was pure black , iam going to run it without the covers on , so it might be the exhaust. i will update.

It’s odds on to be just 2 stroke residue I’d say. Perfectly normal.

 

[dancrane]

March 11th

Asking here about a different issue because everyone who's replied, knows the Tohatsu 3.5 two-stroke better than I do.

The clamping piece on mine had a badly rusted cross-member which I've drilled out and will replace. In order to get the clamp under the pillar-drill, I unbolted the clamp from the engine and found beneath (surrounding the engine leg) a pair of what look like plastic collars which I suppose alleviate what would be severe vibration if it were metal-on-metal. Trouble is, one has split...

Actually I'm in doubt that it could be replaced without the whole leg being removed from the engine unit, so I'm wondering whether it matters, and what (if anything) I could do to prevent its further deterioration. Has anyone seen this damage before?
.

 

[Hot Property]

Whack some CT1 into the gap, smooth it off with a wet finger then reassemble.....

 

[QBhoy]

Aye. Agree with the above. Bond the bugger back together and smooth off the finish