Tipping off paint

ghostlymoron

ghostlymoron

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I've been reading up prior to painting. http://www.acbsphl.org/Tips_and_hints/Topside_Painting_Rolling_and_Tipping.htm
Which I found useful except that it doesn't mention undercoat which I'm planning to use (today), and it refers to using 'reducer' on the tipping off brush but doesn't define 'reducer', I presume he means thinners which in my case is white spirit.
I've still got a few questions such as : should I flat the undercoat and first topcoat?
Any advice gratefully received - I don't want to cocky it up!
 
Unless you are using two pack I find that a small addition of Owatrol substantially helps the flow and results in close to zero brush marks. It is a two man job in order to maintain smoothness, we prefer to apply with a small roller and tip off with good quality long bristle 3-4" brush but I have helped on a job where foam brushes (replaced frequently) were also successful.
You will find that a lot of forumites abhor Owatrol but my experience on both GRP and steel hulls has been good so far.
 
Also employ a friend as a 'spotter' to scan the job at a different angle to the job than you for minor 'holidays ' or runs etc.
BTw +1 for using owatrol .
 
The only thinners we use is on a clean white rag, used by the person tipping off to give the brush a light wipe whenever it gets low on paint, so about every 3 or 4 strips.

This removes any paint that may have started to thicken on the brush, so it's just a surface clean.

Iff applying Flow coat we use Acetone the same way.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
We go with 5% brush thinners in the paint.

With Epifanes nautifort I can roll about 1sqm and tip off right away all on my own but 2 makes it easier.

Mind you I do this every year so any imperfections this year can be sorted out next.
 
I take it it is a 19ft boat.
Easy enough to do it single-handed. I use a 4" roller (Good quality ones. The cheap ones come off the centre tube once the solvent gets to them).
I use the almost exhausted roller to tip off with a few light runs down the paint film.
Works for me and is easy.


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Temperature is critical to get the paint to run smooth too.I found that ambient temp. 18 degrees was best (not in direct sun). I applied toplac with 10% thinners with a 4'' roller and finished off with a foam brush.It looks perfect. Don't 'play' with it.
 
Lakesailer, what sort of rollers do you use? I'm using foam which are suitable for gloss (it says on the packaging)
The paint I'm using is Premier hull and topside and uses white spirit as thinners so it doesn't attack the foam rollers. It costs 14 quid a litre.
 
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I second most of what has been said. I have painted the hull of my boat twice or more over the years using single pack paint, with good results. It is important to thin the paint by as much as 10%. You need to have enough thinned paint in a paint kettle to do a complete side of the hull without having to break off work. If you use prime quality foam rollers for application you can do the job alone. There may be a slight stippling effect as a consequence, but barely enough for you or anyone else to notice. Obviously, the advice about surface preparation needs to be followed closely. Choose a warm windless day.

I have done the job out in the open; not ideal. Obviously avoid windy days, and consider damping the ground to keep dust down. Avoid late afternoons: insects love the colour blue, and swarms embedded themselves in the newly applied paint last time I did it, necessitating a repeat attempt. The other reason for painting early in the day is that if the paint dries overnight there will be condensation about, which may take off the sheen.
 
Just finished second undercoat so I'm admiring my handiwork. I won't be able to topcoat until next week so it should be well cured by then. If it looks good, I'll put up some shots!
 
paul-essex said:
lakesailor what brand or suppler of roller are the best , I have even got some from the Dulux trade shop and they still went soft
Click to expand...

I found the Harris foam rollers worked well and foam brushes were a pack of 24 4'' for about £3 from Ebay. I was using a new foam brush every 1-2m of topside. The pros reckoned using a very short hair roller is best although i got on better with multiple coats using foam. Also remember to wipe the surface with thinners between coats to soften the last coat.
 
I agree. I tried a pile roller and it shed hair all over the transom. Had to wipe it off.
I've used ones that are fairly expensive, but it all depends on what adhesive they used to put the roller foam on it's core with.

East Coast Fibreglass Supplies have foam rollers which I assume are pretty robust although they are short-pile http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p-1845-100mm-nylon-resin-roller.aspx

I haven't found the foam rollers falling apart a problem, other than being annoying. Easy enough to slip it off and put a new one on..
 
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