Tinned copper bars for DIY blocks

[Tranona]

Scratching my head and wondering what Wagos are?? Looked closer and realise we have them here (in fact just used a bunch for lighting a gallery) but they are push only, so no good for multi-filament wire.

Not sure they are the same thing as the ones you can see in post#15 which will take multi filament wire. I chose them rather than the Blue Sea blocks I have used previously because they are simple and cheap. I understand the attraction of solid connections using a crimp eye and a screw fastening, but when you have done a few and lost one or 2 of the tiny screws you start to wonder whether the supposed better connection is really worth it when Wagos (as gregcope says) are Lloyds approved for this type of application.

 

[Daydream believer]

And how about such copper bar? I would be for electric installation on Sadler 25, rather low amperage. But I want to make it solid. Love DIY, but I will buy stupid, proper expensive terminals if necessary. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294054060357

I have already posted a cheaper source of copper bar & tinning is an easy operation with a bit of plumbers solder ( a thick stick of solder is better but many do not have it)& some flux from B & Q ,or a builder's merchant. Warm the copper with a blow lamp, apply either bakers fluid, or flux paste, then wipe with solder liberally applied. Of course if you do not have access to the basic items then you do have a problem

 

[Daydream believer]

Not sure they are the same thing as the ones you can see in post#15 which will take multi filament wire. I chose them rather than the Blue Sea blocks I have used previously because they are simple and cheap. I understand the attraction of solid connections using a crimp eye and a screw fastening, but when you have done a few and lost one or 2 of the tiny screws you start to wonder whether the supposed better connection is really worth it when Wagos (as gregcope says) are Lloyds approved for this type of application.

I quite like soldering a bootlace end to the wire & placing it into a choc box.Alternatively, using crimp fittings ( with a suitable crimping tool) & the suitable connectors which is very quick. Depends on the size of wire.

 

[DownWest]

Not sure they are the same thing as the ones you can see in post#15 which will take multi filament wire. I chose them rather than the Blue Sea blocks I have used previously because they are simple and cheap. I understand the attraction of solid connections using a crimp eye and a screw fastening, but when you have done a few and lost one or 2 of the tiny screws you start to wonder whether the supposed better connection is really worth it when Wagos (as gregcope says) are Lloyds approved for this type of application.

Yep, I will look harder for the ones with the levers to open them. The ones here have to have a solid wire to push in. Don't mention the tiny screws! Lost a couple when up in the 'gods' slightly irritating!!

 

[Tranona]

I quite like soldering a bootlace end to the wire & placing it into a choc box.Alternatively, using crimp fittings ( with a suitable crimping tool) & the suitable connectors which is very quick. Depends on the size of wire.

I have done plenty of crimping of terminals - with the proper ratchet crimper but nothing beats stripping the outer with a proper stripper to the correct length, pushing it in the hole and shutting the lever. works every time and gives a solid corrosion resistant contact.

 

[Daydream believer]

I am not sure how it is anymore corrosion resistant than the rest of your fittings in your set up.

 

[greeny]

Wagos and similar connectors have become "fashionable" for good reason. They are quick and easy to use, no special tools and do a reasonable job. I doubt they make a more corrosion resistant or better electrical contact than a decent choc block with leaf strips under the screws. I use both depending on what I've got in the box and whether I need ability to disconnect/connect easily at times without tools. Either system should be fine if you use good quality materials and the joint is in a "dry" area. Once you get into wet locations the specialist sealed connectors come into play. Forget open terminations.

 

[Tranona]

I am not sure how it is anymore corrosion resistant than the rest of your fittings in your set up.

As I noted in my response to the question on tinned wire for mains cables, almost all the cabling I removed was corroded, often inside the crimp on terminals. When planning the replacements I looked carefully at ways to reduce the chances of corrosion (and also simplify making connections) and came to the conclusion that Wagos and tinned wire solve the problems and indeed as you can see open up possibilities of distributing power in different ways. Also much cheaper, quicker and easier than alternatives.

Worked for me but of course the real test is in 40 years time!

 

[gregcope]

For those interested in Wago 221s’. Wiska (and wago) do a Shellbox Mini Gel Insulated Box eg the MJB1. Ipx8 rated.

 

[Moodysailor]

Wagos and similar connectors have become "fashionable" for good reason. They are quick and easy to use, no special tools and do a reasonable job. I doubt they make a more corrosion resistant or better electrical contact than a decent choc block with leaf strips under the screws. I use both depending on what I've got in the box and whether I need ability to disconnect/connect easily at times without tools. Either system should be fine if you use good quality materials and the joint is in a "dry" area. Once you get into wet locations the specialist sealed connectors come into play. Forget open terminations.

The spring connectors (WAGO) can replace the screw type for all the applications where you would use those. They perfrom the same function but have a couple of advantages - they are better (more appropriate!) for joining more than two wires (e.g. NMEA) as you can get them in 2, 3 & 4 blocks (and probably more) and don't need a 'jumper'cable as you would in a choc-block. Also as they use spring tension they will apply and retain consistent pressure on the wire - anyone who has used choc-blocks knows that the screws always loosen over time, the WAGO type eliminate that.

But they are not the means to all ends as yo uallude - great in the right applications, but not suitable or perfect for all.