Tiller Pilot?

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An ancient Autohelm 2000 ( the one with the compass knob on the top) came with the boat and this has done me most of two seasons. However the ram had been making increasingly unhealthy noises, strip down shows the recirculating balls have turned to brown sludge and the gearbox is missing teeth.

Time for a new one.

I am well aware if I ask which make (Raymarine/Simrad) I will receive a string of replies from advocates of both so I wont ask!

The problem is which models are suitable?

The boat is a Westerly Fulmar, 32feet (well 31ft 11in) design displacement 4500kg plus 30yrs of water absorption and boating junk – call it 5500kg.

So the website spec’s are as follows:

Raymarine ST2000+ suitable for yachts up to 36ft / 4500kg displacement.
Simrad TP22 Suitable for yachts up to 36ft / 5000kg displacement
Simrad TP32 Suitable for yachts up to 39ft / 6300kg displacement

From this it would seem my only option is the TP32.

I do not consider the Fulmar a large or heavy displacement boat and am happy to accept most modern boats of 34ft plus are going to be wheel steer, but to have only one option is frustrating.

Agreed wisdom is to have bigger and not working so hard

There are tiller pilots available for larger vessels but these have fully installed control panels with just the ram on a wire. I did entertain the idea for a moment but they are pricy and not ideal as the control would be forward of the hatch and the ram at the back of the cockpit.

Is my assessment correct and does anyone have experience/recommendation of using the raymarine or TP22 on a Fulmar or similar

Stuart
 
My boat is similar size to yours, 33' 6", she came with an ST2000, which seems entirely adequate, except perhaps downwind in a seaway! My last, 31ft, boat had a (Navico, same as Simrad) TP32, again entirely adequate. I think that there is virtually nothing to choose between them. FWIIW, the Raymarine will probably keep a tighter course, at the expense of being "busier" and slightly higher power use. The Simrad has, AFAIK, a secondary enclosure for it's electronics. This is a good point, as water ingress, rain or spray, is a common cause of failure.
I think the Raymarine ST4000 is really the way to go if the cost is not a bar and it can be fitted somehow. The entirely separate electronics much reduces the vulnerability to water. It also has several extra functions.
 
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I've always wondered why they state vessels up to a certain weight surely a larger boat doesn't always mean a heavier tiller. It all depends on how well the boat is balanced.

I've had Simrad and raymarine Tiller pilots and I would consider the Raymarine a far superior bit of Kit. I'm now using a ST2000plus on a 32 Jeanneau approx 3500kg and it seems to cope fine. IMHO If you can keep the boat well balanced the ST2000 would be fine on a Fulmar.
 
I use a Raymarine ST2000+ on a Sadler 32, about the same displacement as the Fulmar and it generally works fine if the rig is balanced. However water ingress is a serious problem, either pulled in on the steering rod or through the buttons. I needed a replacement pcb this summer and called Raymarine to find they were on backorder with 15 to 20 people waiting, so a common problem. On advice from others on this forum I have made up a canvas cover with a transparent panel over the buttons, and hope this will cure it. As has been said the other option is to fit the St4000 where only the ram is exposed. I would consider the extra expense if planning much offshore sailing. I have gone a different route and am fitting a Windpilot windvane over the winter, so will hopefully rely on this when on passage,
 
Not quite the same, although I suspect my tiller loads are not miles different from yours. I have had a TP 30, predecessor of the TP 32, on my Sadler 34 for many years. It was bought with the thought that a larger size than needed would pay off, and it has. It has never been excessively pressed and copes with virtually all conditions, except large quartering seas from astern, which probably no autopilot could manage.

My Windpilot did this extremely well as it seems the oar senses waves to some extent. Unfortunately it was incompatible with stern-to berthing in the Med so had to go.
 
Thanks all.

It's reassuring to hear others findings in relation to your own thoughts.

Internet search: Simrad TP32 sale cheap.

Stuart
 
I have a Simrad TP22 which came with the boat.
I've not got to grips with all its functions yet but it certainly seems a rugged little chap.

For something like a Tiler Pilot that's gonna be sitting out in all weathers, reliability has got to be no1 priority for me.

I'll be using mine quite a bit over the next couple of weeks so if you haven't bought one yet by then i'll report back on its ongoing performance.
 
As I always say Fulmars are exceptionally well balanced boats.I have an old ST2000 which is perfectly adequate given the boat's characteristics.I imagine a newer model will be much better .I mostly use the Monitor though,saves power and steers better.
 
I've always wondered why they state vessels up to a certain weight surely a larger boat doesn't always mean a heavier tiller. It all depends on how well the boat is balanced.

I've had Simrad and raymarine Tiller pilots and I would consider the Raymarine a far superior bit of Kit. I'm now using a ST2000plus on a 32 Jeanneau approx 3500kg and it seems to cope fine. IMHO If you can keep the boat well balanced the ST2000 would be fine on a Fulmar.

Totally agree ... the trick is in the balance of the boat and being light on helm ... if you have to go for a bigger model then it means set-up is in need of a tweak ! ;)

It is advised that autohelms no matter what make are not subjected to boats sheeted in hard and sailing on their beam-ends ...

The ST2000 should be more than enough for the boat ... I've seen 1000's and 2000's steer some varied boats in size and displacement ...
 
So the Raymarine could be back in the running!

Drifting my own thread, wind vane has been mentioned a couple of times, and yes I aspire to one, sailing across oceans etc. but...

My key reason for wanting to replace the tiller pilot is for single handing i.e. set to head to wind while pull main up, hold course under jib while reef, hold course under main while chute up/down. Most of the time I helm manualy.

Am I correct in thinking windvanes are fiddly to set up each time and more suited to a long spell in a straight line? or can they be easily used as above in which case I might start saving the extra.

Stuart
 
So the Raymarine could be back in the running!

Drifting my own thread, wind vane has been mentioned a couple of times, and yes I aspire to one, sailing across oceans etc. but...

My key reason for wanting to replace the tiller pilot is for single handing i.e. set to head to wind while pull main up, hold course under jib while reef, hold course under main while chute up/down. Most of the time I helm manualy.

Am I correct in thinking windvanes are fiddly to set up each time and more suited to a long spell in a straight line? or can they be easily used as above in which case I might start saving the extra.

Stuart

IMHO - if you are contemplating sailing in steady prevailing direction winds etc. - then Windvane control to the autohelm is good idea. But if you are in varying direction winds and windvane would be not constant - then the remote hand controller is the way to go.

I have a AH 1000 model - inbetween your compass knob model and the digital display Raymarine job ... one of the last AH jobs before RM took them over. It's the best addition I could ask for to the boat and what really makes it even better is the wired remote I have. I can set sails, sit up top ... with that by side and do what I want with heading. Later remotes are of course wireless and expensive - but they really do make a difference.

The water ingress bit - I have the AH 1000 and a spare AH 800 as back-up. My lab technician used to clean up my AH's internals after long cruises and his answer was to vaseline the case joint - never had another problem once that was done. Mine sit out in rain, spray ... and keep working. If you grease the rod joint - then you actually drag water / grit IN - that is why RM tell you specifically NOT to lubricate the rod .... Some use covers and even clingfilm ... I'm against that unless the machine can breathe .... nothing worse than trapping moisture in ...
 
Am I correct in thinking windvanes are fiddly to set up each time and more suited to a long spell in a straight line? or can they be easily used as above in which case I might start saving the extra.

Stuart

I can set up mine in less than 5mns.The Monitor is very forgiving and effective but you need ,of course ,some wind.For hoisting the main a tiller pilot is a better bet but for everything else the Monitor ,or any other good windvane ,is perfect.And the stronger the wind the more effective it becomes.On a run the use of a larger wind vane (the bit that catches the wind)is recommended unless it's blowing really hard.
 
I can set up mine in less than 5mns.The Monitor is very forgiving and effective but you need ,of course ,some wind.For hoisting the main a tiller pilot is a better bet but for everything else the Monitor ,or any other good windvane ,is perfect.And the stronger the wind the more effective it becomes.On a run the use of a larger wind vane (the bit that catches the wind)is recommended unless it's blowing really hard.

I have to admit that I assumed he meant the Windvane control that can be connected to a Tillerpilot ...
 
Sorry, was not particulary clear. Was thinking of the 'monitor' type wind vane. Did once sail a boat with a B&G system that had a wind direction input, very odd, but beyond my capabilties for the present!

Like the idea of getting my minions to clean the internals, pity their most subtle tool is a hammer!

Stuart
 
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