Tidy electrics

[IanCC]

View attachment 179776

Well that's a good idea.

. More traditional methods?
Choc block conmecters, for those very thin data wires?

Crimping small data wires?

Okay, so for connecting two multicore data cables with hair thin wires that mighy do. What if ita a 3 way connection.

Its a Garmin 550 plotter (with one cable to cockpit mount and anothwr to navtable mount) a horizon HX1500E, and ais receiver.

All sharing gps data.

I know its all old hat tech, bit all works. The cable connections are just in a spaghetti like mess, and I'd like to tidy it up and give it all some order.

So it looks organised, connectiins are clearly labelled, and fuses etc easily accessible if needs be.

I like wago but i wouldn't use them for anything vital, nothing scientific, i just think they seem so delicate. And, if i take the time, i can satisfactory use standard red heat shrink crimps. Just fold the wire twice. Fidly but feels more reassuring to me.

 

[Aurai]

Wago, get a vote from me, but their range is vast and the first part of any install is the correct selection and design with wiring and accessories. Wago, for a reason, I hope, also produce various boxes, to hold the connectors and provide strain relief. Not necessarily Wago, but the market is providing much better water protection, with combinations of tight fit and gels. Planning a cover for your install is part of the design. Thanks

 

[Iliade]

Yes indeed, a tool costing £850 and some £20 - £30 connectors is a great alternative to some £20 strippers and a 50p Wago

You missed the humour.
Others may prefer something more like this and wago's etc.

Pablo, Three-way connectors were once available. Or one could make up a three-way connector with bulkhead sockets. The cost would be in the order of naval procurement though. There must be a good cheap copy out there by now, surely...

In my experience of dealing with old electrics, crimped connectors fail regularly, not generally at the crimp, but where they interface with the next one, choc blocks are the work of the devil, and wago style connectors also corrode and fail. The only way to keep semi-permanent connections viable long-term is to address the presence of environmental water.


[Confession: My boat has a completely horrific combination of crimps, low temperature solder heat shrink connectors and good old fashioned soldered joints. While fault finding shortly after buying her I got rid of all the chocolate blocks and did fit a pair of busbars, but there isn't enough time in life to sort the whole rats nest until I retire. And then I'd probably rather go sailing. ]

 

[PaulRainbow]

You missed the humour.

No, my post was meant to be humorous

Others may prefer something more like this and wago's etc.

Wouldn't use bootlace ferules with lever lock Wagos.

Pablo, Three-way connectors were once available. Or one could make up a three-way connector with bulkhead sockets. The cost would be in the order of naval procurement though. There must be a good cheap copy out there by now, surely...

In my experience of dealing with old electrics, crimped connectors fail regularly, not generally at the crimp, but where they interface with the next one, choc blocks are the work of the devil, and wago style connectors also corrode and fail. The only way to keep semi-permanent connections viable long-term is to address the presence of environmental water.

I have 35yr old crimp connectors on my boat and have seen much older. The way to have long lasting connections is to not use one style of connector in every situation.

 

[B27]

You can make your own by epoxying them onto a board. You can see one in the middle of the photo

The choc blocks for the returns are making my teeth itch.
Black Wires Matter!

Last year I fitted a 12 way fuse box, which handily has a 0V bus bar built in.

Somebody made a very good point.
Keep your wiring dry and anything reasonable will work.
Too much wet and the best practice with expensive stuff will fail before too long.

 

[steveeasy]

Each to their own.

A good busbar and these open ended spade connectors. Easy to fit and remove and not too expensive. No good for data cables but simple for basic cabling.
Steveeasy

 

[thinwater]

Each to their own.

A good busbar and these open ended spade connectors. Easy to fit and remove and not too expensive. No good for data cables but simple for basic cabling.
Steveeasy

Plain spade connectors do not meet ABYC requirements. They should be flanged end for improved security. Not a regulation or UK or Eu requirement. But something to consider. It's in the rules because open spades have worked loose. (Captive means flanged tips that are bent upwards. Rings are better.)

11.14.5.4 Terminal connectors shall be the ring or captive spade types. (See FIGURE 17)

 

[thinwater]

Re. choc blocks there is a range of quality.

Those screws direct on the wire are only rated for solid wire, which means not on boats. But there are also choc blocks that are all tinned and have pressure plates under the screws, and are fully rated for stranded wire.

I would not paint them all with the same brush. Too bad they are not clearly labeled, but better manufacturers do specify..

 

[PabloPicasso]

Each to their own.

A good busbar and these open ended spade connectors. Easy to fit and remove and not too expensive. No good for data cables but simple for basic cabling.
Steveeasy

Very nice I'm sure, but its the hair thin data wires that are the issue here.

 

[steveeasy]

Plain spade connectors do not meet ABYC requirements. They should be flanged end for improved security. Not a regulation or UK or Eu requirement. But something to consider. It's in the rules because open spades have worked loose. (Captive means flanged tips that are bent upwards. Rings are better.)

11.14.5.4 Terminal connectors shall be the ring or captive spade types. (See FIGURE 17)

Rings are a pain in the backside.

Steveeasy

 

[PaulRainbow]

Very nice I'm sure, but its the hair thin data wires that are the issue here.

With respect, you're worrying unnecessarily. There are several ways to connect data wires, but the key is to secure them.

For instance, butt connectors work perfectly well. Use red ones, double the wire and crimp with proper ratchet crimping pliers. You then need to support them, usually by cable tying them to other wiring. You can also put the joints in an enclosure and just secure the incoming/outgoing wires.

Solder and heatshrink also works well. The connector strip in post #26 work too, as do Wago connectors. But as above, security is key.