Those drill bit sharpening machines…

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fredrussell

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Was going to ask this on Rum Pirate’s drill bit thread currently running but thought I’d start a separate thread so…

…anyone used one of those drill bit sharpening machines? Plug in 240v type or (I think) drill powered ones. I’m a dab hand at sharpening bits on my bench grinder, but no bench grinder on boat. Anyone have one of these little gizmos on boat?
 
fredrussell said:
Was going to ask this on Rum Pirate’s drill bit thread currently running but thought I’d start a separate thread so…

…anyone used one of those drill bit sharpening machines? Plug in 240v type or (I think) drill powered ones. I’m a dab hand at sharpening bits on my bench grinder, but no bench grinder on boat. Anyone have one of these little gizmos on boat?
Click to expand...

I think I could sharpen a drill with an angle grinder if I had to.
 
Thats what I do in NZ. I have an angle grinder but no bench grinder. I clamp it in a vice and use the edge of the grinding disc.

I have, however, just blued £21-99 for a Lidl Parkside 150mm bench grinder to keep on Jarrow Lily.

We have a big genset so 240 mains tools are a useful addition to the cruising/repair kit.

Getting back to RP's thread, I find fluted twist drills poor for boring timber in the larger sizes, for the exact reasons his bit was overheated and damaged.
 
I’m terrible at ‘wasting’ my way through half-decent (e.g. cobalt/titanium) bits. I do follow the rules for drilling the hard stuff. But once they go, I know not what to do!

I do keep hold of them and mostly relegate them to drilling GRP etc.

If I could master a method to re-sharpen, to the point they’d cut stainless again, the local Screwfix would notice the drop in drill bit sales I reckon!
 
I can just about manage to freshen up a blunt bit but it's a bit hit and miss. With broken bits, I stand no chance! I can't get the angle or rotational position right.
I've bought a Lidl sharpener which does a passable job, but it's not perfect.
 
dankilb said:
I’m terrible at ‘wasting’ my way through half-decent (e.g. cobalt/titanium) bits. I do follow the rules for drilling the hard stuff. But once they go, I know not what to do!

I do keep hold of them and mostly relegate them to drilling GRP etc.

If I could master a method to re-sharpen, to the point they’d cut stainless again, the local Screwfix would notice the drop in drill bit sales I reckon!
Click to expand...

It doesn't take much practice to sharpen them but you need some "know how"



 
Neeves said:
I would not sharpen dill bits on a yacht - too easy to contaminate the decks with microscopic pieces of steel. I save remedial work and especially use of an angle grinder on steel to as far from the boat as possible.

Jonathan
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That's no problem: why do it on the boat?
 
Neeves said:
I would not sharpen dill bits on a yacht - too easy to contaminate the decks with microscopic pieces of steel. I save remedial work and especially use of an angle grinder on steel to as far from the boat as possible.

Jonathan
Click to expand...


There might be an occasion where it is imperitive to sharpen a particular size drill - for threading perhaps. Having a bench grinder on a boat does not neccessarily mean it will be used ON the boat. An extension lead and handy dock would, of course, be the preffered venue.

First Mate tells others I have enough tools and spares on board to build another boat. That is stretching it a bit, but if I need a particular drill bit because the one I need is blunt, the ability to sharpen it 'in house' might outweigh the bit of HSS steel shot onto the GRP. I always place an old bath towel under the tool and work and I use a large magnet to pick up any bits that miss the towel afterwards.

The other use for it might be after shortening a length of S/S studding. The hacksawed end can be chamfered for ease of fitting the nuts.

I do appreciate your comment, but if needs must, I would sharpen a drill on board.
 
dankilb said:
I’m terrible at ‘wasting’ my way through half-decent (e.g. cobalt/titanium) bits. I do follow the rules for drilling the hard stuff. But once they go, I know not what to do!

I do keep hold of them and mostly relegate them to drilling GRP etc.

If I could master a method to re-sharpen, to the point they’d cut stainless again, the local Screwfix would notice the drop in drill bit sales I reckon!
Click to expand...


Like most things, practice is essential.

Look closely at the cutting end of a new drill bit and you will see the leading and trailing edges of the cutting angle. With the bit vetical and at eye level it can be seen the the trailing edge is lower than the leading edge. If a bit is not like this it will not cut.

Using the side of a bench grinding wheel practice getting the leading and trailing edges like a new bit. After a few goes you will see what is required. A bit of a twist of the wrist and an upward movement on the side of the wheel does it for me.

I am using a drill set nearly 40 years old. Some, by now, are getting quite short.............................
 
I’m surprised that those of you that can’t or don’t sharpen bits haven’t persevered with it. It’s pretty straightforward with a bench grinder, only takes a bit of practice.
No glowing reviews for the bespoke bit sharpeners thus far then, was hoping someone had found one that works well.
 
rotrax said:
There might be an occasion where it is imperitive to sharpen a particular size drill - for threading perhaps. Having a bench grinder on a boat does not neccessarily mean it will be used ON the boat. An extension lead and handy dock would, of course, be the preffered venue.

First Mate tells others I have enough tools and spares on board to build another boat. That is stretching it a bit, but if I need a particular drill bit because the one I need is blunt, the ability to sharpen it 'in house' might outweigh the bit of HSS steel shot onto the GRP. I always place an old bath towel under the tool and work and I use a large magnet to pick up any bits that miss the towel afterwards.

The other use for it might be after shortening a length of S/S studding. The hacksawed end can be chamfered for ease of fitting the nuts.

I do appreciate your comment, but if needs must, I would sharpen a drill on board.
Click to expand...
For shortening a stud or bolt, I was taught to leave a nut screwed on, in order to keep the thread clean, and just give it a quick rub with a file, to get rid of any sharp bit on the end.
 
Once you have learned the knack, it's actually quite easy to do freehand without a jig. However, the 3-dimensional movements required to do it are difficult to describe in words, in a series of still photos or even in a video. Much the best way to learn is to get someone to show you how to do it. Happy to help if you happen to be in the Edinburgh area.
 
fredrussell said:
It’s pretty straightforward with a bench grinder
Click to expand...

Therein lies the rub!

As it happens, I impulse bought a sharpener from Lidl only today. I don't expect it to be brilliant, but hopefully better than nowt. I'll report back when I've had a chance to use it a few times. (All the relevant tools are playing hide and seek at present.)

I hope it'll be more effective than the oilstone I bought (second-hand) to sharpen wood chisels a few years back . I suppose it gave me a bit of exercise, but didn't seem to make any difference to the chisels. ☹
 
LittleSister said:
Therein lies the rub!

As it happens, I impulse bought a sharpener from Lidl only today. I don't expect it to be brilliant, but hopefully better than nowt. I'll report back when I've had a chance to use it a few times. (All the relevant tools are playing hide and seek at present.)

I hope it'll be more effective than the oilstone I bought (second-hand) to sharpen wood chisels a few years back . I suppose it gave me a bit of exercise, but didn't seem to make any difference to the chisels. ☹
Click to expand...
You can buy a tool that holds the chisels and plane irons at the correct grinding and honing angle for sharpening on the oilstone. I can't remember how I came across mine, but I have it at least 25 years, so it's definitely pre-Lidl.
I did buy a drill sharpener from Lidl when they first appeared, but I haven't got around to using it yet, as it's far easier to just buy new drill bits than to find time to start sharpening the blunt ones:)
 
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