This exhaust elbow is a goner...right?

[Refueler]

Perkins advise that raw water should not be higher than 140 F or 60 C to avoid deposits in the system.

Give that it doesn't make any difference what engine as they will be running same water ... I suggest that temperature is a good reference.

 

[RJJ]

I removed the rubber hose from the elbow by prying it open a smidgeon with a screwdriver and sending a bit of teflon spray down there. Nothing fancy
, gT 85. Came off with a moderate amount if jiggling.

Isn't the theory behind SS that you still have to clean it and check it, but the metal itself is less likely to corrode, so should last longer?

 

[Steve_N]

Isn't the theory behind SS that you still have to clean it and check it, but the metal itself is less likely to corrode, so should last longer?

I replaced a crumbling VP cast iron much like the OP's with a home-made single-wall SS one about 4 years ago.
It's stayed remarkably clean with no carbon build-up at all and no signs of corrosion other than internally at the welds.
This is my fault though because, as it was very much a prototype, I didn't bother to back-purge with Argon so there is some porosity on the non weld pool side (inside) of the welds.
I've made a few since for other people and using proper back-purging they seem very durable and keep very clean.
This with only 2mm wall thickness and a very 'basic' water injection point i.e. straight through the side of the elbow just before hose tail.

 

[rszemeti]

At the moment, it looks like the casting is actually OK and the problem is the deposits .... I would clean it up and give it another go. A sharp screwdriver then a soak on some brick acid will sort it. Had a lot of success with supposedly "irreparably blocked" outboards and brick acid, works a treat! You may even find the thick build up of crud has been protecting the casting from further damage?

 

[RJJ]

So I have ordered an aftermarket part here which seems much more reasonably priced than the original.

Nautical Outlet Web Shop - Boat parts for bargain prices

The water inlet is fine and will be re-used.

 

[RJJ]

Hi, following up on this earlier thread. The old elbow was (after a soak in brick cleaner) too far gone, so I bought an after market one on eBay.

Now looking into the engine compartment...the exhaust outlet is also heavily calcified. I am proposing to do what I can with a wire brush drill attachment.

Is there any reason not to give a squirt or two of brick cleaner up there?

Thanks

 

[RichardS]

Hi, following up on this earlier thread. The old elbow was (after a soak in brick cleaner) too far gone, so I bought an after market one on eBay.

Now looking into the engine compartment...the exhaust outlet is also heavily calcified. I am proposing to do what I can with a wire brush drill attachment.

Is there any reason not to give a squirt or two of brick cleaner up there?

Thanks

I would be very careful about squirting unless you can check that the exhaust valve/s are fully closed. You might be able to check this by looking through the oil filler or by removing the rocker cover. Acid entering the cylinder would not be a good idea.

Richard

 

[RJJ]

I would be very careful about squirting unless you can check that the exhaust valve/s are fully closed. You might be able to check this by looking through the oil filler or by removing the rocker cover. Acid entering the cylinder would not be a good idea.

Richard

Thanks... presumably, though, they won't all be closed?? And there's a risk of bits of crud getting in which wouldn't be great either...

Any other suggestions very welcome.

 

[vyv_cox]

Hydrochloric acid will not harm a cast iron(?) manifold but it may well damage the internal parts of the engine. However, just squirting acid into the manifold is just about pointless. To do the job properly needs immersion for 5-10 minutes, which clearly requires removal of the manifold.

I am not quite sure what we are discussing here. There should not be any seawater in the manifold in an indirectly cooled engine.

 

[Catalina36]

Flush it through with fresh water, preferably hot, for a minute after each run and it'll never get to look like that. Galley pump, T piece, stopcock.

 

[RJJ]

Hydrochloric acid will not harm a cast iron(?) manifold but it may well damage the internal parts of the engine. However, just squirting acid into the manifold is just about pointless. To do the job properly needs immersion for 5-10 minutes, which clearly requires removal of the manifold.

I am not quite sure what we are discussing here. There should not be any seawater in the manifold in an indirectly cooled engine.

It's certainly full of crap. Perhaps it's just loose-ish carbon (is that what you suggest?)and I can scrape it out easily. Will report back!