This any good...for soldering with

looks OK at 100W, but the key is the quality of the flux for really good connections. Should also heat seal the rnds of ropes, etc.
 
Any opinions on whether this kit will perform basic soldering functions adequately? Making VHf connections, terminals etc. rather than PCB work.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Electricians+Tools/Electric+Soldering+Kit/d10/sd170/p57891


Perfectly adequate for general cabling and circuit work, but it raises another question and personally I think you would be better off buying a decent pair of crimp tools, soldering is not the best way to go for terminals and cable joints unless it's panel work or you can provide immediate and adjacent strain relief. I can't even sign off an A/C job to BS EN ISO 13297:2012 now with soldered joints, they must be crimped properly.
 
Any opinions on whether this kit will perform basic soldering functions adequately? Making VHf connections, terminals etc. rather than PCB work...
I'm going to buck the trend here and say no. Soldering iron guns are only rated for a few seconds at a time, and have small tips; both useless when making a large joint. They are also unwieldy and difficult to hold.

You would be much better off with a conventional 100W iron: http://amzn.to/1qD61gC
 
As Nigel says, not a lot of use for large jobs, but rarely need that anyway. I change the tip for a piece of stout copper wire - 2.5mm stripped household cable - more heat and quicker startup. Tips burn out after a while but easy replaced. Present gun has lasted over 3 years with fairly heavy use, or should that be miss-use?
 
I've carried one like this on board for many years. It was very cheap, takes up little room and heats up quickly. Most importantly, it runs off 12v.

I had a 12v soldering iron originally on Kindred Spirit. Complete rubbish. Switched to one of the smaller Iroda gas irons ( http://www.pro-iroda.com/pro50.htm ) with much better results, ended up re-wiring the boat with it. I even used it up a mast in a bosun's chair, try that with a 12v iron!

Came to rewiring Ariam, and decided to invest in a bigger Iroda ( http://www.pro-iroda.com/pro120.htm ). This is a brilliant tool - one-click ignition and then ready for use a few seconds later. I have a range of ends for it, and if you take the end off entirely you have a small blowtorch. The heating catalyst (which is semi-consumable, they always seem to start breaking down after a few years of use) is in the tips on this model, so replaceable, and the body of the tool should last indefinitely.

(In the event, I used crimped terminals more than soldering on Ariam's rewire, but I still don't regret buying the bigger Iroda.)

Pete
 
I've tried using a similar soldering 'gun', and found it too unwieldy for accurate use. The gas iron prv mentioned is far better. I use an ordinary mains powered iron when working on the pontoon, and the gas iron elsewhere.
 
I have both a small gas iron and a 40W mains iron and find them both too cool. A long time ago I had a Weller iron of unknown power which worked much better. In general I prefer to use an inverter directly from the battery than rely on the 12V cabling on board.That's why I'm going for 100W 230V.
 
A tip when using a 12volt soldering iron is to run the engine to boost the volts.

Because watts is proportional to volts squared it can make a useful difference.
 
Ah yes, but I always have 12 volts available. What if your gas runs out and you're miles from anywhere?

In the four years I've had gas irons, I've think only got through three cans of gas - and that includes two major electrical refits. So running a can empty is a pretty rare event and not something that happens unexpectedly.

Pete
 
Seems like further justification for using a gas iron, if the 12v ones are that marginal :p

Pete

If you have a gas one ... use it .....

If you have a 12 volt one it can make a worthwhile difference


Personally I have one which can be gas, paraffin or spirit heated........ whichever is available.
 
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