This any good...for soldering with

In the four years I've had gas irons, I've think only got through three cans of gas - and that includes two major electrical refits. So running a can empty is a pretty rare event and not something that happens unexpectedly.

Pete

You're determined to win this, aren't you?
OK I give up. My 12v iron is obviously rubbish. I'll chuck it overboard and buy a gas one.
Happy now?

:D
 
A tip when using a 12volt soldering iron is to run the engine to boost the volts.

Because watts is proportional to volts squared it can make a useful difference.

It can make a useful difference, definitely. Your second bit has fried my brain, and let the magic smoke escape ;)
 
Any opinions on whether this kit will perform basic soldering functions adequately? Making VHf connections, terminals etc. rather than PCB work.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Electricians+Tools/Electric+Soldering+Kit/d10/sd170/p57891



I have the very same kit.

Sorry to say I don't get on with the Weller rip off gun very well. It may be ok for light work. The tip is a bit of bent wire which never seems to get sufficiently hot, gets dirty, is difficult to clean and to tin.

It may well be my lack of technique with the soddin thing but I prefer to heat up a copper iron, with a blowlamp, and use that. Luxury and never a problem.

For wiring work, particularly outdoors for example at the mast, I have just bought one of these for a quid:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pencil-Bu...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3a8a85e27b

They are excellent.
 
It can make a useful difference, definitely. Your second bit has fried my brain, and let the magic smoke escape ;)

Most people know that watts = volts times amps ........ you could deduce that watts is proportional to volts but if the volts is increased the amps increase too, because amps = volts divided by ohms
Combining the two expressions you get watts = volts squared divided by ohms. I = V²/R so if the resistance is near enough constant watts is proportional to (volts)²


This means that you get greater increase in power than you would have predicted if watts had been simply proportional to volts.

Brains should be well cooked now!

Cannot be more difficult than Adult Numeracy level 2 surely? Maybe only level 1.
 
FWIW I've got/had both the 12v and the gas irons.

I've found the 12v iron works well and have never needed to run the engine when I've used it. It''s fine for the vast majority of soldered connections on a boat but doesn't have sufficient heat for larger connections....though turning the engine on for those would help..it's just never something that I've needed to do. It can't be turned down so its a bit too large for delicate work like printed circuit boards. It has never let me down.

The gas irons are another matter altogether for me. I have a love/hate relationship with the things. When they are working properly they are superb. The heat is very controllable, they are highly portable and usually have a selection of gizmos such as rope cutting blades, different sized soldering tips, blowlamps (small!) and hot air blowers. My problem is that I have found them to be unreliable. The catalyst packs up, rubber O rings leak and the gas escapes, control switches pack up. I've got 4 broken ones down in my shed; I really should throw them out. I've tried the Iroda(?) ones, my latest is a cheapie from Aldi; maybe I've just been unlucky.
 
... I don't get on with the Weller rip off gun very well. It may be ok for light work. The tip is a bit of bent wire which never seems to get sufficiently hot, gets dirty, is difficult to clean and to tin...

And if you keep the trigger pressed to try to get it hot enough, you burn out the element. Then you read the label that says you can only keep it on for 10 seconds or so.

Also agree with Nigel above, don't use lead-free solder, it's carp.
 
I have both a small gas iron and a 40W mains iron and find them both too cool.

What sort of solder are you using? Lead free has a melting point about 20 - 30 degrees higher than good old 60-40, and modern soldering irons from reputable makers have had their tip temperatures increased to match. Using an iron designed for 60-40 with lead free is deeply frustrating.
 
Most cheap 12V irons are poor, I have a proper weller which is good, it's about 45W, but has thermostatic control.
Then again IIRC it was about £50?
Mind you, I also have 4 mains irons, a butane one and one of those guns.
The gun is mostly used for rope cutting for dinghies, but it is quite good when soldering outdoors, as a Northerly F4 will cool a small iron badly.
I recommend lead/tin solder of a good make such as 'multicore' and a flux pen, which is a marker pen with flux in it.
 
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