The Strange Case of Disappearing Anodes and Disintegrating Propellors

Boreades

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The beginning of the story....

We keep our Beneteau 32s5 in Plymouth, Devon and have done for 12 years. Earlier this year, we asked the yard to lift the boat as usual, so we could do our routine annual hull maintenance i.e. antifouling and anode replacements. First shock, a call from the yard - "Did you know your anodes are missing and the propellor is seriously corroded?".

First action, a trip down to Mayflower to inspect the damage. Sure enough, the prop-shaft anode is completely missing, and the folding prop is so corroded, the gear teeth won't engage. Initially, I thought it was just Sod's Law, and the anode had fallen off, or it was my own bad workmanship when I fitted it a year before. Of course, once an anode's gone, electrolysis looks for the next sacrificial metal. In this case it was the propellor. Which is seriously bad news, and costly, but it needs fixing. So, a new prop has been fitted, that's £400 thank you very much, along with two shaft anodes and a new hull anode as well. At this point I'm thinking "Well, put that down to experience, we've learnt from it, we've taken extra precautions. Let's move on".

But then the plot thickened...

Just one day after the boat went back in the water, a letter arrived for the annual insurance premium renewal. That much was expected, what wasn't expected was a note that this year the insurance firm would like a copy of a marine surveyor's report on the condition of the boat. Apparantly it's normal practice now in the UK to ask for that every four or five years. So, another lift-out so the surveyor can do his inspection and charge me for the report. That's an extra £300 thank you very much. The said report has lots of boiler plate about what kind of boat it is, mostly OK, but then another shock. The new prop is already showing signs of corrosion, and the surveyor reckons my boat has an electric circuit problem, and needs testing by a marine electrician. I really can't believe this. By chance, I mentioned it to someone on the same pontoon. Guess what? He's got the same problem. Anodes put on only three months ago are already unfit for further use, instead on the year he'd expect. Back in the boatyard, I spot another boat in the slings being anti-fouled. I ask the guy working on the boat "Err, excuse me, hope you don't think I'm being nosey, but what are your anodes like?" Same story, only three months life.

Time to talk to the experts ...

That same day, a senior bosun at the yard said that lots of boats are coming out of the water with anodes that are much more corroded than past experience would have them expect. Boats that are using shore power seem to be most effected. But the effect isn't confined to the marina, boats on swinging moorings as far upstream as Torpoint (about two miles) are suffering as well.

A couple of days later, I caught up with Adrian Barlow of Ultra Marine, the resident marine electrician. He confirmed it's a general problem, but knew something I didn't. Marine biologists at the University of Plymouth, who have been studying marine life over many years have noted an increase in the acidity of water in the Tamar river. In some rivers and estuaries, that might not matter, but the Tamar valley is especially rich in heavy metal ores. As the acidity of the water increases, more metal is leached out into solution in the river. When it gets to the marina area, with plenty of disimilar metals on boats, and shore power leaking current through earth circuits, it seems you have all the ingredients for an electrolytic soup, buzzing with electricity. Then it's pot luck whether you have anodes of a slightly better - or worse - grade than your neighbour. Even if you have no shore power, you're in the circuit, and electrolysis will happen.

One thing is clear, it's not the marina's fault, and I'm not pointing a finger at them. Neither am I blaming it on global warming. I'll lift the boat again in two months to see how the anodes are doing.

Something else that worries me, is what happens to other boat owners, if we are only discovering this individually and by chance, if a boat is lifted. If my boating neighbours aren't lifting their boats often enough, they might get an even nastier surprise than I did.

A question for any one who reads this: Is anything similar happening in your area? I'm keen to hear from anyone else and compare notes.

Regards
Keith Macdonald
 
If the marina has steel piles there is a good chance it also has impressed cathodic protection, no problem unless their anodes have depleated and the current is still on.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Keith, how can you be so sure that it is not the marina's fault? To me that would be the first stop. I am not sure that the heavy metals in solution would make any significant difference to the electrolyt of salt water. Our resident Chemist - please anser this one!

Worth getting your multimeter out and checking the shore power to the water in the marina. Can some electrical wizzkid please give simple instructions for that to be done without electrocuting Keith.
 
Might be Mayflower. If they have leakage, as the marina is held in place by chains it could be interesting if it is the water. Might be worth having a chat with Waypoint 1 at QAB (no interest in Mayflower and good electronics)
 
Types of Anodes are important

Are you sure the correct Anodes were put on the last time they was changed
Salt water = Zinc as Magnesium offer little or no protection in seawater
fresh water = Magnesium as Zinc offer little or no protection in freshwater.

That is what i was told when i was changing mine earlier this year
 
Bad News

This has apparently been going on for some time in the Gareloch. Faslane has been mentioned as the problem.....

Donald
 
Disappearing Anodes and Disintegrating Propellers

An interesting situation.

Two things to consider. The underlying cause and what can be done to counter its effects.

If the University of Plymouth Biologists have noted a change in the water acidity/ alkalinity and a consequent rise in heavy metal concentrations so be it. I can understand that a rise in heavy metal concentration might affect the life of zinc anodes but whether it has risen that much I cannot say. I dont think either a small change in acidity or a rise in heavy metal concentration would affect the props directly but once the anodes have gone then they become more vulnerable.

I dread to think what might be happening to saildrives and outdrives.

So what can be done.
Bigger anodes I suppose but that probably means hull anodes, which will have to be properly bonded to the stern gear.
Better choice of alloy for props. Bronze instead of brass or ultimately nickel aluminium bronze perhaps.

A problem locally in the marina and shore power has been mentioned although dismissed.
Definitely galvanic isolators if shorepower is to be left connected (connected not necessarily in use) Addition of a capacitor to the galvanic isolator perhaps especially if modern electronics or battery chargers with switch mode power supplies are in use. Disconnection of the shorepower lead when not required.

Impressed current protection of marina structures has been mentioned. I dont think that would have an effect, depletion of the anodes would not be a factor either I dont think but in any case the anodes used with impressed current system should be resistant to depletion.

Making measurements with multimeter has been mentioned. I think to be meaningful these would have to be made using a reference electrode such as a calomel or a silver/silver chloride electrode or using a copper/copper sulphate half cell. The results would need interpretation by an expert.

Choice of anode material has been mentioned
Magnesium is too reactive for use in salt or brackish water. It would be effective but very short lived. It is the material for use in fresh water.

Zinc is passivated and rendered ineffective in fresh and brackish water but is effective in salt water.

Aluminium is, like zinc, not effective in fresh water it is the material to use in brackish water and can also be used in salt water. It is in fact usually an aluminium/indium alloy which has an electrode potential similar to that of zinc.
 
Hi make sure no shore cables are in the water. Ask the marina for a copy of the electrical report for the walkon. They will have one it's a legal requirement. Check the resistance to earth. In the short term, you can bond additional anodes and lower them into the hoggin, bolted to stainless steel strapping. I know a guy who made a new rack for a saildrive prop and made it from wrong material, it corroded out and his blades fell away
 
My Beneteau has been in PYH connected to shore power for 15 months since anode change, swam underneath 3 weeks ago & they are looking very good:)
Coming out for antifoul & anodes in about 4 weeks.
However, frien has a boat on trot near Tamar Bridge & he struggles to get 6 months from his:confused:
 
All very worthwhile contributions.Do not overlook the fact that in affected boats the skin fittings and seacocks will also suffer, at a rate difficult to estimate. Carry many sizes of wooden bungs to stop inflow if the worst should happen.I used to give the old Blakes pattern a reasonable thump with a heavy hammer whilst on the hard and inspect for pinkness which I understand indicates depletion of one of the metals involved.More modern and lighter skin fittings might not withstand this treatment, so I would just advise disassembly over the winter to check for crevice corrosion at the hull interface, especially if the through hull fittings are threaded full way.Hope your problems are solved by some fault or other, but all the precautions mentioned should be taken as a matter of course or instead limit immersion time (pity to have to dry-sail) to allow checks at these locations. Sorry not to be more helpful, but I too have had the swiss cheese effect on the prop(alloy) whilst the anode lasted longer than the prop! Solar panels in my case have avoided the use of shore power if at all possible, as the batteries are easily maintained this way in most climates.Good boating to all!
 
Aluminium is, like zinc, not effective in fresh water it is the material to use in brackish water and can also be used in salt water. It is in fact usually an aluminium/indium alloy which has an electrode potential similar to that of zinc.

Not quite right Vic. We moor in fresh and sail out into salt - using ally anodes. They work fine in both fresh and salt albeit they dont last long.

Mind you in clean fresh water there shouldnt be much of an electrolysis problem anyway. Conversely more acid in the sea water would make it an even more effective electolyte and speed up erosion.
 
Not quite right Vic. We moor in fresh and sail out into salt - using ally anodes. They work fine in both fresh and salt albeit they dont last long.

The advice given by MG DUFF is

FIT THE CORRECT ANODE MATERIAL FOR THE WATERS YOUR VESSEL IS OPERATING IN

As a general rule owners should fit the anodes suitable for the environment they most regularly berth in and the following table provides a useful guide:

Salt Water Fit Zinc or Aluminium Anodes
In Brackish Water Fit Aluminium Anodes
In Fresh Water Fit Magnesium Anodes

Some vessels will from time to time move between salt and fresh water, others are berthed within marinas and behind tidal barriers where the water is enclosed and likely to be brackish or even virtually fresh. Owners must be aware of the effects that this may have on their boats and fit the correct cathodic protection system to avoid corrosion.

Not all anodes are suitable for every environment, for example the surface of a zinc or aluminium anode will if left in fresh water for some time become covered with an off white crust of oxide which effectively seals the anode and stops it working even when returned to salt water. Zinc Anodes suffer a similar problem even in brackish conditions whereas Aluminium will continue to operate effectively in river estuaries and other areas of brackish water indefinitely. The consequences of this passivation of the anode are that the next most anodic item within the anode bonding system will start to sacrifice itself which could of course be very serious.

It is therefore very important to check Zinc and Aluminium anodes after any trips into fresh water and if necessary clean off or change the anodes.

Should a vessel move into fresh water for more than two weeks MGDUFF recommend that an alternative anode system is used suitable for fresh water situations. Magnesium Anodes on the other hand have a much higher driving voltage than zinc or aluminium making them highly suitable for use in Fresh Water, they will however become very active in salt water where they will probably only last a matter of months. Protected surfaces can build up a layer of off white calcareous deposit which will be difficult to remove.

Magnesium anodes are not designed for prolonged use in sea water and if you are taking your boat into a salt water location for more than seven days (Fourteen days in any one year) you should consider changing the anodes. Magnesium Anodes should never be fitted to wooden hulled vessels as they can damage the timber.

Interesting that you find that aluminium anodes do not last long. It is usually claimed that they last up to 25% longer than zinc ones.
 
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The boat is coming out on friday for a visual and little clean, she's moored in sutton harbour and hasn't really moved much, hopefully things will be ok but she has a saildrive. will let you know of the results!
 
Re << If the marina has steel piles >>

Oldsaltoz's comment << If the marina has steel piles >> has jogged my memory. The marina does indeed have steel piles. The old one's on the main pontoon walkways are quite heavily corroded. Not only that, the marina has just built a big new car park extension with steel piles, already rusting nicely. I wonder if they're contributing to the situation?
 
The problem arises because there will/can be a loop from your anodes, through the water to the piles and back to your anodes via the shorepower earth conductor. Your anodes end up trying to protect the nearby piling

Breaking the loop by unplugging the shorepower or fitting a galvanic isolator should solve the problem but there seems to be some other factor involved in the Plymouth area if boats on swinging moorings are affected because they tend not to have shorepower connected !
 
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