The Rydlyme and Raw water cooling systems question.

BruceK

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Forgive me if this is old news to some.


I've used Rydlyme annually for a while and there is no question as to it's efficacy. I've seen the reaction with my own eyes. Note the bubbles


However this year I wanted to check the intercooler air passages and decided on a complete raw water cooling strip down.

What I discovered is it would appear the heat exchanger lies parallel inline to the waterline, such that it drains at rest to about the 1/4 full mark. It's unfortunately also the level of one of the cooling quadrants. This dries out leaving salt deposits that so completely block access to the cores that rydlyme cannot access it to do it's magic if you are cleaning out on an annual basis. If it cant get there it cant clean there. I still think Rydlym is a wonderful product but it needs a fighting chance.

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What we need now is a bright spark to come up with a fresh water flushing system we can tap in to clear the salt water out after a weekend on the jolly. @FARSCO
 
Interesting, I assume RL was circulated for many hours as usual and it just took the path(s) of least resistance, I wonder if it might help, if possible, to flood the HX with 100% RL and then leave it over night with no flow, just to dissolve any deposits, then circulate again....?
 
I have always let it flow for 4 hours as per instructions. I dare say soaking it will eventually work but the bottom line is you never really know unless you take the end cap off. Some boats you may be able to do this insitu, I just dont have the space and removing the heat exchanger is not a quick and easy job.
 
What we need now is a bright spark to come up with a fresh water flushing system we can tap in to clear the salt water out after a weekend on the jolly. @FARSCO

What you need is the standard BodgeFlow™ system. It is patented by MapisM and JFM . You could however go for the BodgeFlow-Gold™©® system (direct from tank setup) and the BodgeFlow-Ultra™©® (direct from tank with watermaker and softener) would be even better again!

The BodgeFlow-UltraLumi™©® would just be showing off (imho) ;)(y):cool:

Some info in this thread: Engine cooling thermostat, how does it work No offence but skip past Porto's posts, you will get through it quicker. :LOL::LOL:
 
hm, I'm running BodgeFlow-Gold but always forget to run it :D as I have to turn two three way valves and then run the engines
must remember to do it tomorrow when I go there!

V.
 
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What you need is the standard BodgeFlow™ system. It is patented by MapisM and JFM . You could however go for the BodgeFlow-Gold™©® system (direct from tank setup) and the BodgeFlow-Ultra™©® (direct from tank with watermaker and softener) would be even better again!

The BodgeFlow-UltraLumi™©® would just be showing off (imho) ;)(y):cool:

Some info in this thread: Engine cooling thermostat, how does it work No offence but skip past Porto's posts, you will get through it quicker. :LOL::LOL:

Just read through it. It was hard going at times
 
don’t ask me...I’ve just knacker my coolant pump trying to remove it for a possible rebuild. Was leaking from behind the front pulley.

volvopaul is kindly advising. He’s a legend!

You have to do it with engine running to push the water out...otherwise you could fill up the engine with water when afloat.

So, 3 way valve on the in pipe to the strainer with a hose attachment on one of the ports so you can effectively shut off the sea water intake pipe and run on fresh. Access should be OK there.

alternatively....move to Douglas Marina......big fat river runs in and keeps us nice and fresh?
 
It’s empty now.....needed something today!?

you socialise with people that have threads locked by admins.....what does that tell you ???
 
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