The Quiet and relaxing Shannon -not!! (long post)

nicho

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Just returned from 10 days on the Shannon, where we hired a boat with a couple of (motor) boaty friends. We were looking forward to a pleasant, relaxed few days, with hopefully reasonable weather - you know, one of those Indian Summers. Well, it started off OK.........

Day 1. Picked up the 4 year old Haines 38 from the Shannon Castle Line, a good boat, similar shape to Broom, with a 5 cylinder Nanni pushing out about 85hp, limited to 2400 rpm, and about 8/9 knots. Left the Williamstown base (halfway down the 24 mile long Lough Derg) in warm sunshine, and crossed to Dromineer. Lovely little harbour, great night in the Whiskey Still pub - Guinness was great. Discovered fridge not working.

Day 2. Back to Williamstown to have fridge fixed, then North on a flat calm L/Derg to Terryglass. Great little Harbour, meal in Paddy's bar - Guinness (and weather) was great.

Day 3. Off the Lough and into the river Shannon itself - cloudy today with showers - wind up to around F4/5. Had our first encounter with a German Skipper of another Haines (nicknamed "Fritz") who charged at us whilst moored and waiting for the Portumna Brige to open. Came in at about 5/6 knots to raft against us, and whacked us very hard, with no apologies - your card is marked sunshine!! The bridge opens, and off goes "Fritz", throttle wide open, forgetting about his stern swing, so we got another bashing - we shout after him to "effing" well slow down. Waved back at us in acknowledgment that looked rather like a single finger salute to us. Arive at Meelick Lock, several boats (including Fritz) on the waiting pontoon. I raft next to some (pleasant) Americans, and switch off the engine. Next minute, Fritz is bellowing at me to switch off my engine (it was actually the boat rafted next to him). I signal to let him know of my displeasure. Fritz is beside himeself because in spite of all his efforts to get into the lock first, the rafted boats will go in before him!! As the filled lock gates open (it's a fairly wide lock) he fights his way to the front to exit first, narowly avoiding a side swipe of the partially opened lock gates. Everybody gazes in amazement!

Day 4. overnight at Banagher, nothing to report, but the Guinness was good.

Day 5. Wind now up to an estimated F6, gusting 7. Arrive at Athlone Lock. The wind is howling across the river, with around 7 or 8 hire boats milling around, being blown into one another, all awaiting the locks gates opening. When they finally do, all hell lets loose. The nil-experienced skippers of the hire boats all go for it at once, most are sideways on, some have turned 180 degrees, and cannot get their bows back throught the wind - the lock keepers are trying to keep calm, but are becoming exasperated. In the middle of this carnage, and old privately owned boat, helmed by an Irish lady, who did not have a clue at all, scythes her way through the others, in a rush for the open gates. Somehow she manages to get through, but the lockies have seen her actions, and try to stop her from entering. Half in and half out, her boat slews sideways and jams across the lock. We stand off and wait for things to settle. Eventually, we are ushered in, the lockie seems surprised we had half a clue what we were doing, and we slide up through the middle, and in pole position to leave first (Fritz would have been proud!!) However, the guy next to us, in a privately owned Nelson 38 is having none of it, and when the gates open, and he roars off in clouds of diesel smoke, with both engines seemingly flat out - sadly his stern line is still firmly attached to our bows. As we are also tied to other boats each side of us, he very nearly pulls half the contents of the lock with him. Much shouting alerts him to his error, and (relative) calm is restored.

Spent the night on the pontoons of Athlone Marina. Winds increase further, and at 04.00, we are out retying the lines - must be gusting F9!. Others are too, but seem to have no idea. They think springs are only found on cars. The hire companies obviously don't include such niceties in their 15 minute briefing. The Guinness was excellent.....

Day 6. Wind and rain incessant, so stay in Athlone a further night, more excellent black stuff.

Day 7. Stop for the night on the floating pontoon at Shannonbridge. Moor up on the inside, 'cos the outside is already full. At 14.00, a massive floating hotel, 90' long, the "Shannon Princess" arrives, and its skiopper indicates to the (hire) boats on the outside they must move in his favour. The winds are still around F6, and in spite of its weight, the boat is being pushed around. The (Dutch,German and Irish) skippers of the hire boats concerned, refuse to budge. Much shouting ensues, but no-one is going to shift, in spite of the skippers ever aggressive gesticulations. Eventually, he side swipes them to remind them "might has right". A lady crew member jumps down on the pontoon and "F's and blinds" like a good 'un - her language was unreal!!. The Germans scream back their own oaths equally loudly. Another side swipe from the hotel boat finally changes their mind, and they try to leave. Unfortunately, the F6 is pinning them to the pontoon, so they have great difficulty getting away, bashing into each other merrily as they do so. I cannot resist stirring it up a bit, and for my troubles I am treated to a ripe old barrage of abuse from the lady crew member. Eventually, it ties up, and it's bemused cargo of American tourists disembark, to hisses and boos from the remaining hire boats!! Glorious entertainment indeed!!. Spent the evening in a local, wonderful traditional Irish pub with music and dancing 'til late. Oh yes, and the Guinness was good!

Days 8/9. The wind and rain continues unabated as we arrive to find the last slot in Castle Harbour, a small marina at the Northern end of Lough Derg. It's entrance is open to the full force of the F8 Southerly, and the swell from the Lough's 6' (yes 6!) waves creates an uncomfortable berth. Still we're here, and not really prepared to face the Lough's conditions in a river hulled boat. Several other hire boats arrive, but there's nowhere to berth, so they try to turn around. No chance!! Considerable time is spent, pushing them and pulling them around so they can exit - back into the teeth of the gale. Then we all rush the the harbour wall to watch these old tubs and their inexperienced crews get a battering and soaking from the worst of the Lough's conditions. In the midst of all this, another arrives and in trying to turn outside the harbour, promptly runs aground. He eventually manages to get clear. Another German manned hire boat decides to leave its secure berth, with one crew member in it's dinghy, outboard revving, to assist it's manoeuvering. The last we saw of the combination was the guy in the dinghy desperately trying to catch up and tie to the transom as they left the shelter of the harbour, the poor chap was being drowned by spray from its mother ship - others watching claim he (just) made it back on board - all this without a lifejacket!! Luckily the mouth of the Shannon river is only some 15 minutes away, so their suffering will be short lived. The sight of the water spraying high over the boats will live with me for some time. Everyone laughed, but nevertheless had considerable sympathy for their plight!! The Guinness at the local pub was deemed not quite as good as in the others - but good nevertheless...!

Day 10. A temporary lull in the conditions allowed us to sprint flat out (8 knots on a good day) down the lough to the boats' home base before the next gale arrived (which it duly did that evening)

Day 11. Subjected ourselves again to Ryanairs' prompt, but rushed and generally bloody awful service on a 25 year old "classic" 737 back to UK.

Warm and comfortable the Shannon wasn't, but you know what, we had a ball!!

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kindredspirit

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Yup, the Germans have a "reputation" on Lough Derg!


And the middle of the lake can get very "sealike" on a rough day. I know because many years ago I went across it on such a day in an open boat with a (wait for it!) 3.5 hp Yamaha. Great fun!



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deborahann

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very entertaining to read, thanks.... PLEASE NO ONE TAKE OFFENCE AT THIS IT HAPPENED YEARS AGO BUT FOR OBVIOUS REASONS I REMEMBER IT WELL.....

on the shannon moored up to floating jetty, lovely evening, my small two dogs being good, all quiet, & peacefull. hire boat arrives, loud crew are from Burnley (mill town in north of england) takes offence at my dogs sitting quietly, so he goes off to another jetty.

between us moors a boat full of germans, everyone is fishing, all quiet again. Then the burnley skipper says to the german, do you eat what you catch, "no" says the german. burnley guy says, "no we don't, but then we don't gas folk either !" we just could not believe what we had just heard and quickly disappeared back into the boat. what could we possibily say to the germans, never mind the idiot from burnley.

Ireland is lovely, but some of the boaters both local and tourists are frankly mad, had at least 3 play chicken by overtaking on the wrong side, and after a fright on our part, turning away at the last minute. Still have visions of the lock madness they all seem take getting out first VERY SERIOUSLY.

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duncan

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Glad you enjoyed the Guiness!

Best argument for segregated waters I have ever read - hire and private craft just shouldn't be on the same water!

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Pelican

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Thanks Nicho for a great laugh, am just drying my tears...Years ago going down lough Derg with some friends who were on their honeymoon, on a 30ft wooden hire boat which had the galley opposite the convertible dinette. My friends wanted a bit of nooky and were using the dinette. We others were driving the boat. There was a chicken cooking in the oven. We boys on deck had the waves behind us when we turned to port to take the boat into a harbour the boat started to roll.
Suddenly screams were heard from the cabin, the chicken having become airborne, crossed the cabin and landed on the other side of the lovers...nobody was hurt....
When Ireland was in its infancy of boat hiring, (late 50's early 60's) many old boats, including ships lifeboats were converted into "cabin cruisers" some very primitive, a couple hired a boat for their week long honeymoon and decided to have a very quite time. They drove the boat into the reeds on the river, got weed into their engine intake and consequently spent 2 weeks stuck in the reeds before they were rescued, having run out of food and drink except lake water!! They were lucky they did not loose their lives! I go back almost every year and go on private boats, and have many a laugh watching the hire craft antics....
Thanks again for a good laugh, my colleagues were hammering on my office wall!
Pelican

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