That dreaded vinyl headlining ...

I did consider panels .... but the SR25 has definite curvature to the deckhead - which would create a loss of headroom - which is already OK for me at 5ft 7 .... but anyone taller would then be at disadvantage.
 
I did consider panels .... but the SR25 has definite curvature to the deckhead - which would create a loss of headroom - which is already OK for me at 5ft 7 .... but anyone taller would then be at disadvantage.

Fair enough, and understood. (I would only add, for the wider discussion, that some modern materials - at a cost - not only accommodate typical curvatures but are aesthetically pleasing without the need to be covered. I cannot recall who it was who here described using such panels, or the name of the material, but a search might throw it up should anyone be interested.)

Good luck with the job.
 
Be ready for a big, horrible job. The key is to get all the old glue off before starting again. We used a power drill with a flap wheel and a wire brush attachment to get back to the fibreglass, it was so dusty the drill had to be dismantled to clean the brushes half way through. Then all the windows and hatch trim had to come out and other internal fittings removed. But as in all jobs good preparation is critical. In our case we had plywood panels in the main cabin, but they proved to be rotten as the deck grab handle fastenings leaked, so one job leads to another !

Remove the old lining very carefully and methodically, that is your pattern for cutting the new, we marked each piece as it came off.

As said before you must use the correct glue, normal contact adhesive will not last, however the fumes are dangerous and so good, forced, ventilation is essential coupled with a quality breathing mask. We used van lining for the forecabin sides, which was much warmer to the touch and pleasanter to apply but a two person job and requires the sides to be spotlessly clean, smooth and dry.

Well worthwhile in the end, but we made sure our next boat had no headlining having no wish to do it again.
 
Be ready for a big, horrible job. The key is to get all the old glue off before starting again. We used a power drill with a flap wheel and a wire brush attachment to get back to the fibreglass, it was so dusty the drill had to be dismantled to clean the brushes half way through. Then all the windows and hatch trim had to come out and other internal fittings removed. But as in all jobs good preparation is critical. In our case we had plywood panels in the main cabin, but they proved to be rotten as the deck grab handle fastenings leaked, so one job leads to another !

Remove the old lining very carefully and methodically, that is your pattern for cutting the new, we marked each piece as it came off.

As said before you must use the correct glue, normal contact adhesive will not last, however the fumes are dangerous and so good, forced, ventilation is essential coupled with a quality breathing mask. We used van lining for the forecabin sides, which was much warmer to the touch and pleasanter to apply but a two person job and requires the sides to be spotlessly clean, smooth and dry.

Well worthwhile in the end, but we made sure our next boat had no headlining having no wish to do it again.

Go to an industrial clothing/paintshop supplier/Screwfix/Toolstation etc and get yourself an "Organic Vapour" protection mask if you want to use organic adhesives in a confined space. Ordinary dust protection masks do not protect you from the glue vapour.
 
Mask / vapour protection is not a problem ... I'm in the Oil Biz and that's a common problem for us.

I would set-up an air flow system anyway ... easy to do ... couple of fans turned round 180 so they blow OUT from cabin etc.

Its a job that is being planned for after winter ... too b****y cold and damp out there now !!

All the ideas / advice here is going into the 'pot' to make decision on final solution ...

I have one other avenue - sailmaker pal in next town - thinking to ask if he has a pal who does this work ... because I also have my teak rubbing strake to replace round the hull topsides.
 
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