JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
I borrowed a lever crimper from a friend of mine who earns part of his living building Very Large power supplies. It takes a bit more effort than a hydraulic one, but the end results should be the same.
Terminating large cables
- Thread starter lustyd
- Start date
Daverw
Well-Known Member
This is one I’ve used for the last 4 years, perfect for use on the boat, I did also buy the larger one first as it was only a few £ more but find it too heavy and large to use on the boat in small spaces.
NormanS
Well-Known Member
I fully expect to be shot down in flames here, but with my previous boat I used welding cables for all my main battery/starter cables. Being welding cables, I used hammer on connectors. I've just looked, and the 9.5mm size, which I think would be the size that I used, is good for 900 amps. I had no problems with that for 30 years.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
I also used welding cable for my battery connections.
Don't tell Paul but I soldered my connections except the battery connections that were cide clamp that allows the wire to pass all the way through.
Makes it easy to interconnect batteries if you don't have screw on battery posts.
The main power runs were done in 38 mm x 25 mm aluminium bus bars for both positive and negative.
Any one have any idea of the current carrying capacity of aluminium bus of that size.
lustyd
Well-Known Member
I do have a cheap crimper for normal crimps which works well. Hadn't considered cutting these beasts to be fair!
lustyd
Well-Known Member
Yes, but it's nothing whatsoever to do with China specifically or this thread so take it elsewhere or I'll report you to the mods.
Daverw
Well-Known Member
Also the hydraulic crimp tool I’ve also used to push in and out small bearings and sleeves etc with the inserts removed
Frayed Knot
Well-Known Member
Goodness, that escalated quickly.
lustyd: my point no.4 was not intended as you take it - I quite agree with you - I was just aiming at the sanctimonious & supercilious sniping from Atomson
lustyd: my point no.4 was not intended as you take it - I quite agree with you - I was just aiming at the sanctimonious & supercilious sniping from Atomson
RobbieW
Well-Known Member
Trolls are best ignored
lustyd
Well-Known Member
Yes I got that, my response wasn't aimed at you, don't worry. I'm just sick of this pointless virtue signalling by completely uninformed people.
lustyd
Well-Known Member
Agree, but this is one of those subjects where I feel someone needs to stand up for the Chinese who are being demonised in the western press. The only reason this is happening is that the west is losing ground to a superior economy and don't like it, can't stop it, are scared how they will treat us once they're in charge after decades of use treating them poorly.
lustyd
Well-Known Member
So if I want a massively inferior end result I can bodge something together to avoid buying a reasonably priced tool from a legitimate business that happens to be in a different country. Smashing. Thanks for your input. I'll stick with quality tools at reasonable prices thanks, and yes I'll probably cut out the middleman and get them drop shipped direct rather than from a local shop who ordered from the same supplier but asked them to put a different sticker on so they could take a cut of the profits. 
Same way we did. Better than we treated them.
oz-1
Well-Known Member
Hi every one and a happy new year. My apologies, Lustyd, if i am going slightly off topic. When i built my boat, i made a very primitive press for the ss thimbles and copper ferrules for the standing rigging. This was back in 1994 and the rigging is still holding up the mast ( apart from the bobstay which snapped off and damaged the ss bowsprit ).
I am going to replace the standing rigging this spring, God willing, but unfortunately my home made press has long since gone. Is it at all possible to use the hydraulic crimpers that Paul mentioned to crimp the copper ferrules, aspecially as some are quoted as for 10 ton. I know i can buy the tool designated for what i need, but the prices are way above the £20 or so for the ones being discussed. My apologies in advance if i am talking complete rubbish. Best regards, Oz.
I am going to replace the standing rigging this spring, God willing, but unfortunately my home made press has long since gone. Is it at all possible to use the hydraulic crimpers that Paul mentioned to crimp the copper ferrules, aspecially as some are quoted as for 10 ton. I know i can buy the tool designated for what i need, but the prices are way above the £20 or so for the ones being discussed. My apologies in advance if i am talking complete rubbish. Best regards, Oz.
Daverw
Well-Known Member
Yes they work very well on copper and Ali ferrules, you can easily make special anvils to fit, the only problem I’ve had is an oil leak on the release stem that needed a new 1p O ring
Hydrozoan
Well-Known Member
I got these from TLC which look very similar, but for about £25 which seems a lot less than I see CK ones advertised: 6.0mm² - 25mm² Ratchet Crimp Tool (tlc-direct.co.uk). They may not be as good. but for infrequent use they have been fine - though with my aged arms I did take off the plastic grips and put short steel tubes over the handles for extra leverage.
starfire
Well-Known Member
Welding cable is perfect, good insulation, fine strands & tinned.
Not too sure about 'knock ons' in long term use.
With the hydraulic crimper, they are intended for cable with less strands than we normally use for battery cables, to get a decent crimp, you may have to use the next size down dies.
penberth3
Well-Known Member
Something I'd check is oil resistance if you're using it near an engine. I've got vague memories of damaging some welding cables years ago. If it's only Battery to Dis panel the problem shouldn't arise.
Daverw
Well-Known Member
I cannot imagine that today the outer sheaths are any different from each other, from what I can see the main difference is the tri rated cable of the welding cable