Tercoo rotating blaster

rumtoddy1

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Good afternoon
I have seen this product on line and, as I am stripping the keel on my westerly back to bare metal thus year, was wondering if anyone has any experience in using this. The keel is quite rusty and pitted so I need to be aggressive with it prior to treating and filling and fairing.
Any advice or comments appreciated
 

coveman

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I was going to do similar but managed to engage a guy locally with a sand blaster who did it for a reasonable fee.

However, when I was thinking of doing it myself I spoke to a professional boat repairer and he recommended the Tercoo for DIY stripping the keel so I imagine it works well.
 

PetiteFleur

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I used the Tercoo for stripping my keel last winter. I used the three spike version, works well but took a long time, two days and it was tiring. It takes practice to get your technique right. Much cheaper than blasting and very satisfying when you finish. You have to immediately treat it with Fertan so I did it in vertical strips.
 

chris-s

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We used one for the keels on our bilge keeler which were heavily scaled with rust far beyond light surface rust. Sand blasting wasn’t an option in our yard. We tried a grinder but that just polished the rust and we’re warned off using a needle gun as the cast iron used is typically of low quality and ’soft’ so you risk just hammering the rust into the keel. We were dubious about the tercoo but it worked a great. Have since loaned our old one to other yachties who were suitably impressed and bought their own.
 

Tranona

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While that seems more effective than other tools it will never be as good as good as blasting. I have just had my bilge keels done total cost for blasting, 4 coats of Hempel epoxy and antifouled for just over £800. The blasting was £350 and the epoxy just over £100. The application of the epoxy is an easy DIY job, just that I am past crawling between the keels! So you could do DIY application for well under £500 which is a bargain as you never want to do it again.
 

Neeves

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Based on a conversations with a galvaniser.

Grit blasting, and possibly other processes, produces a pitted surface, micro pitting, to which galvanising and (I assume paint) adhere to. The grit blasting produces an increase surface area. The downside is the increased surface area is also prone to very, or more, rapid oxidation (rust - again on a microscopic scale unless left uncoated - and then rust becomes obvious) and for galvanising this means the grit blasting and galvanising needs to be one continuous process - or you need to acid clean. For Thermal Diffusion Galvanising (and to obviate the need for acid which may cause Hydrogen Embrittlement in high tensile steels)) grit blasting is part of the galvanising process.

I'm assuming that the same, corrosion, might be true of painting or epoxy coating to a greater or lessor extent - you need to coat immediately or expect reduced adhesion. And/or do not work on humid days and then leave overnight or to the next weekend before coating.

Jonathan
 

rumtoddy1

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I used the Tercoo for stripping my keel last winter. I used the three spike version, works well but took a long time, two days and it was tiring. It takes practice to get your technique right. Much cheaper than blasting and very satisfying when you finish. You have to immediately treat it with Fertan so I did it in vertical strips.
Thanks for that. Good to have a first hand reply
 

rumtoddy1

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We used one for the keels on our bilge keeler which were heavily scaled with rust far beyond light surface rust. Sand blasting wasn’t an option in our yard. We tried a grinder but that just polished the rust and we’re warned off using a needle gun as the cast iron used is typically of low quality and ’soft’ so you risk just hammering the rust into the keel. We were dubious about the tercoo but it worked a great. Have since loaned our old one to other yachties who were suitably impressed and bought their own.
Many thanks Chris
 

Concerto

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Once the keel is stripped, rust treatment like Fertan is essential. I double treaded my keel 8 years ago with Fertan and coated with a minimum of 5 coats of Primocon. Over susequent years some rust reappeared, but localised stripping and treating as above has now got my keel to an almost rust free state.

Also be aware that there may be some filler applied to the keel that improved the casting shape. On my keel this was white and extremely hard, but no rust appeared where there was filler. So you should try and leave these areas after removing the antifouling,
 

dankilb

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You have to immediately treat it with Fertan so I did it in vertical strips.
Not tying to be contrary, but one of the advs of using rust converters is that you can wait up to a few days before applying, if you need. You can even wash and degrease, allowing time to dry. The converter reacts with the oxidation in the flash rusting. Theoretically - or at least as some steel boat guys argue - the converter even acts better on flash rustled-over substrates.
 

chris-s

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Winter 2019 haul out
4C46904B-3E2E-40B1-9E78-73F1B4A8596C.jpeg

Winter 2020 haul out
CD0D6AE9-11AB-44CD-A0C6-24D031611C79.jpeg

Winter 2020 - Work started
163EF8DD-D2C9-49EF-98E5-E1E243FDC8E3.jpeg

Treated with phosphoric acid
8ED6A529-C0FA-4088-830F-6BA3FE1E20CA.jpeg

Spring 2021 - Multiple coats of Jotun 2 pack
B23EF779-4F78-4024-907A-44436E9B6189.jpeg

Winter 2021 haul out before pressure on wash
4FD0614B-268E-4332-A678-0924E15CDF29.jpeg

… and this year still no sign of rust except where the bottom corners have got rubbed.
 

rumtoddy1

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essex
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Winter 2019 haul out
View attachment 144092

Winter 2020 haul out
View attachment 144091

Winter 2020 - Work started
View attachment 144093

Treated with phosphoric acid
View attachment 144095

Spring 2021 - Multiple coats of Jotun 2 pack
View attachment 144094

Winter 2021 haul out before pressure on wash
View attachment 144096

… and this year still no sign of rust except where the bottom corners have got rubbed.
Thanks for all of the replies people. As always grateful for the depth of knowledge and experience out there
 
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