laffinskip
Well-Known Member
Teak
first class finish-excellent job.I would love to see the whole boat.
first class finish-excellent job.I would love to see the whole boat.
teak
- Thread starter pathfinderstu
- Start date
Mad Pad
Well-Known Member
+100 for Coelan.Hugely expensive but we have areas that havn't been recoated for 6 years and still look good.So in the long run cheaper....no more 10 coats of Epifanes every year!!PS Based in Eastern Med(Montenegro)
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Actually the Sikkens product came second to Coelan.
Looks great on my boat after four years since application.
Agree - but others' experiences with the product are not always as good as yours. Plus it is hugely expensive (nearly 30 times as expensive as Sikkens as the table shows) and difficult to apply correctly. Might explain why it has never achieved much success in the market.
Sikkens still comes top on a cost/performance basis. It is very easy to apply, cheap and long lasting - but not a "fine" finish.
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laffinskip
Well-Known Member
Teak
How is it difficult to apply,its just painted on like water,could,nt be simpler.
How is it difficult to apply,its just painted on like water,could,nt be simpler.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
No. Look at the comparative figures. Would have to last 20-30 times as long as other finishes to be cheaper in the long run (ignoring cost of labour if you are paying somebody to do it).
Ex-SolentBoy
Well-Known Member
BrianH
Well-Known Member
Not only that. When it does start to go and needs removing - and sooner or later, it will - there will be patches that will stick like the proverbial to a blanket. The resulting work to remove it will be among the worst of your life.
I am based in NE Italy and mistakenly did my teak decks with Coelan and had to hire someone to spend two weeks in the baking sun to get it all off again when it starting failing in parts a year later (see below).
I left a small area on the aft deck that was never in direct sunlight and five years later that has started to flake away in small areas and all must be removed. I am dreading it and wondering how I can grind it all off with all the hardware mounted there without disassembling it all.
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Ex-SolentBoy
Well-Known Member
Not only that. When it does start to go and needs removing - and sooner or later, it will - there will be patches that will stick like the proverbial to a blanket. The resulting work to remove it will be among the worst of your life.
I am based in NE Italy and mistakenly did my teak decks with Coelan and had to hire someone to spend two weeks in the baking sun to get it all off again when it starting failing in parts a year later (see below).
I left a small area on the aft deck that was never in direct sunlight and five years later that has started to flake away in small areas and all must be removed. I am dreading it and wondering how I can grind it all off with all the hardware mounted there without disassembling it all.
Yes, but the OP is only doing his louvred doors. I would never put Coelan on a deck.
When Coelan flakes it is normally because water has got under the edge after damage. If that happens you can just rub the offending area down until the edges are sound and then apply some more over it.
Ex-SolentBoy
Well-Known Member
Yes, but the OP is only doing his louvred doors. I would never put Coelan on a deck.
When Coelan flakes it is normally because water has got under the edge after damage. If that happens you can just rub the offending area down until the edges are sound and then apply some more over it.
BrianH
Well-Known Member
You would be right - I was at that desperate stage of what to do with an old teak deck that should rightly have been stripped off for firewood. However, many do recommend Coelan for decks - I came to the conclusion that preparation and application should only be attempted under cover away from sun and rain and not as I did, under hot Italian sunshine and during a showery period.
I was finding that the broken part had compromised large areas that lifted in sheets; other areas were still firmly bonded to the wood. I was so disappointed that I just wanted it all off.
laffinskip
Well-Known Member
Teak
Wrap it up,I,ll take it with me.--where is all the teak though??
With pleasure
Wrap it up,I,ll take it with me.--where is all the teak though??
Ex-SolentBoy
Well-Known Member
Wrap it up,I,ll take it with me.--where is all the teak though??
Having had teak side-decks on our previous boat we went out of our way to not have them on this boat.
The cockpit and coamings are teak, but they are covered up when we are not aboard.
All the teak outside the cockpit (toerail, base for windlass, support for jib track, pushpit seats, coachroof grabrails etc) are all "Coelaned"
Should you wish me to wrap it up please refer first to www.rustler44.com
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BrianH
Well-Known Member
To own such a craft that clearly has no expense spared to be both beautiful and yet free of that absurd wood cladding that so many aspire to, shows you are a very wise and experienced boat-owner. Deep respect.
Mad Pad
Well-Known Member
Coelan on a deck in the Med is not a good idea,it must get too hot to walk on?Our covering board,hatches,deck lockers,handrails,king plank(you can step over that!) and deckhouse are all Coelan in the Med and we have never had a problem with it lifting off.Was it properly applied?Did you degrease the teak with acetone before applying the primer for instance?
BrianH
Well-Known Member
Yes, a furnace, far too hot to walk on in bare feet. But that is also true of the bare teak, although worse with Coelan because it darkened the wood significantly with that terrible orange colour that is supposed to be an UV protection.
The worst thing was the skating rink that the deck became when wet. Before my decision to take the lot off, I bought the glass beads to include in a further coating - still have it plus an unopened 3lt can of Ceolan (that's over €130 worth) in the depths of a locker. But it's now four years old so may not be any good.
Probably not, as mentioned in an earlier post, one day was hot sun when the application seemed to dry immediately, the next heavy rain, which I had to let dry before the next coat - six in total. I accept it should have been done under cover, which was quite impossible where I was located.
No, not acetone, but I did clean the deck thoroughly with some propriety stuff before the primer.
But the problem seemed to be the extremes of temperature that caused the caulking edges to break the seal, water would then get under and start the damage. This is one example - after the one and only summer. There are two visible problems, the two vertical seams (and many others) where the Coelan has swelled and broken over it, the second is the white part, which is a top coat flaking.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Louvre doors are a poor choice for companionway doors on a boat left out in the open in the Med (or indeed anywhere). Even worse things to apply any coatings to because of the multitude of joints and changes in faces. Conventional finishes rely on creating an impervious film over the whole wood - try doing that on louvres. Once the film is broken it starts to fail. That is why porous finishes such as Sikkens are so good as they do not rely on a film to protect the wood. The newer fomulations such as Woodskin claim to maintain this property while having a finer gloss finish. That would be my first choice in this application.
However, the easiest way of preserving the finish is to have drop down canvas screen over the doors when the boat is not in use - which for may boats is the majority of the time, and when the damage is done.
pathfinderstu
Well-Known Member
I like the louvre doors, they came with the boat, look the part. have a certain ammount of vent value and are never in direct sunlight due to a large bimini.
the top half of the slats are angled open but the bottom half are closed shut so water ingress is not an issue. if it was i think i would be in my life raft.
I dont think i will ever be able to bring myself to love grey untreated teak and was going to use teak oil, however the modern treatments as mentioned seem very good so am looking to that. in the past woodstain type stuff looked to me like painting on mud.
once again this forum has been a great source of information to me so thanks for all the valuable and interesting input.
the top half of the slats are angled open but the bottom half are closed shut so water ingress is not an issue. if it was i think i would be in my life raft.
I dont think i will ever be able to bring myself to love grey untreated teak and was going to use teak oil, however the modern treatments as mentioned seem very good so am looking to that. in the past woodstain type stuff looked to me like painting on mud.
once again this forum has been a great source of information to me so thanks for all the valuable and interesting input.
wazza
Well-Known Member
Coelan
I'm happy with mine (only 1 season though) I followed the instructions and no aceton was applied.
I will also be doing the teak toe rail with Coelan
I'm happy with mine (only 1 season though) I followed the instructions and no aceton was applied.
I will also be doing the teak toe rail with Coelan
wazza
Well-Known Member
Yes, a furnace, far too hot to walk on in bare feet. But that is also true of the bare teak, although worse with Coelan because it darkened the wood significantly with that terrible orange colour that is supposed to be an UV protection.
The worst thing was the skating rink that the deck became when wet. Before my decision to take the lot off, I bought the glass beads to include in a further coating - still have it plus an unopened 3lt can of Ceolan (that's over €130 worth) in the depths of a locker. But it's now four years old so may not be any good.
Probably not, as mentioned in an earlier post, one day was hot sun when the application seemed to dry immediately, the next heavy rain, which I had to let dry before the next coat - six in total. I accept it should have been done under cover, which was quite impossible where I was located.
No, not acetone, but I did clean the deck thoroughly with some propriety stuff before the primer.
But the problem seemed to be the extremes of temperature that caused the caulking edges to break the seal, water would then get under and start the damage. This is one example - after the one and only summer. There are two visible problems, the two vertical seams (and many others) where the Coelan has swelled and broken over it, the second is the white part, which is a top coat flaking.
I know I downloaded your in depth article about your experience with Coelan, but cannot remember if you replaced your caulking before applying?
My view of the picture is that the Coelan has come away from the caulking. The Yacht Services where I bought the product from was very insistent that I replaced the caulking, just in case it was silicone based, to a MS polymer. As Coelan does not adhere to silicone based caulking material.
You were very informative in your article and I thank you for that..
BrianH
Well-Known Member
Thanks wazza, I didn't know that and I wonder if it was known and published at the time I used it, because I did read everything relevant at the time - perhaps my research was not thorough enough to include what my caulking was. But you are spot on - HR used silicon caulking through the years that my boat was built (1981); they used it instead of the more usual polyurethene-based material. However, with silicone it seems too strong and while the wood wears the seams are left proud on the deck, which, with traffic, has the risk of exerting pressure on the seams to loosen the bonding with the wood allowing water to seep in.
My latest treatment is 'Teak Wonder', a similar product to the 'Semco Sealer' one but half the price and I find it the best solution so far. They say that a Swiss Hausfrau has found the meaning and reason of life - it is to polish the front door-knob. Mine is the annual worry and maintenance of my teak deck. One day I'm going to rip it all off and have an easy life.