Teak toe rails

mrangry

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Hi All,

Some of the original teak toe rail section on my old Moody 33 are damaged and split and after searching the net I can get replacement sections but not the same dimensions as the originals. Now given that it is only a couple of short sections that are damaged I am reluctant to replace it all and wonder whether anyone has dealt with this issue or has any ideas.
 
These are usually machined to size rather than standard sections. See if you can find a workshop (boatyard, joiner, timber merchant etc) who will cut to match your existing.
 
These are usually machined to size rather than standard sections. See if you can find a workshop (boatyard, joiner, timber merchant etc) who will cut to match your existing.

Or for "only a couple of short sections" buy the next available size up and plane it to the size required
 
Hi All,

Some of the original teak toe rail section on my old Moody 33 are damaged and split and after searching the net I can get replacement sections but not the same dimensions as the originals. Now given that it is only a couple of short sections that are damaged I am reluctant to replace it all and wonder whether anyone has dealt with this issue or has any ideas.


I'm part way into the process of replacing all of my toe rail but using iroko instead of teak , the whole lot (100ft) inch thick and three inches wide with rounded profile including the stern section which was made specially and cut from two solid planks to match the curved stern

They will cut to any profile and length

Whole lot was under £250 from a place near Plymouth, really good service, just google hard wood suppliers in plymouth , it was the only place that came up , highly recommended
 
Please excuse if I'm teaching how to suck eggs...

I always find it helps when approaching a workshop to do some machining if you at least know what equipment is required. If you can source suitable sawn/planed wood, then any workshop with a spindle machine or a router table should be able to form a perfect match for you. Actually router cutters are multi-edged so can only be adjusted for depth of cut, but a spindle cutter is a single blade and can be ground to the exact shape you require.

Rob.
 
I've just been doing this today.
Recently I bought some teak - smallest size available was 1" thick and 6" wide, roughsawn.

I've used my thicknesser, plane, spokeshave and bandsaw to reduce to the about 50mm x 12mm toerail, and 15 thick x 66mm stern toerail.
I'm only replacing the parts damaged in a storm while on a marina, all the stern rail and about 3m in 2 parts of toe rail and a little part of rubbing strip (external below toe rail).

I have never worked in teak before and have found it the easiest timber to work that I've ever used - a pleasure to work with, especially with hand tools.

I'm using teak to match existing teak, as I understand that Iroko doesn't weather to a light colour as teak does.
 
I think my toe rail leaks through the dowels that cover the heads of the bolts that hold the rail down.

Sorry to drift this thread but, if I replace them, what is the best glue to use. I know some will say 'no glue' but it's water ingress I'm trying to stop.
 
I think my toe rail leaks through the dowels that cover the heads of the bolts that hold the rail down.

Sorry to drift this thread but, if I replace them, what is the best glue to use. I know some will say 'no glue' but it's water ingress I'm trying to stop.

expanding gorilla glue ( polyurethane) some here swear by it. make sure you have disposable gloves its filthy stuff. get some on your fingers & dirt adheres to it
 
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Polyurethane has the advantage of being moisture curing, but it does expand and foam as it is curing which will probably pop the plugs partly out. As sealing is the main issue, perhaps Sikaflex (also moisture curing but does not expand) would be a better choice. You van trim it afterwards in the same way as trimming the plug and it will seal the screwhead as well.
 
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