Teak swim platform help

[harvey38]

Hi all,

I'm after some advice please, the honeycomb bathing platform has been neglected and needs some attention, unless the boat comes out of the water, removal is out of the question so I was thinking of sanding down the top and as best I can, sand inside the squares.

Do I then just paint on a UV conditioner/sealer such as Teak Wonder or would I be better putting on teak oil?

Thanks in advance.

Rob

 

[Northern Star]

I usually get mine clean with a pressure washer and then teak oil if you want to keep it the teak colour rather than the oxidised grey.

 

[Concerto]

Do NOT use a pressure washer on teak. It will remove the soft grain and leave it ridged.

Use Patio Magic. Apply like on wooden decking. Leave to dry. Job finished.

 

[Rappey]

Do I then just paint on a UV conditioner/sealer such as Teak Wonder or would I be better putting on teak oil?

What is the Best Teak Oil for Treating Teak Outdoor Furniture? - Teak Patio Furniture World

 

[salad]

The thing is, unless you're only after aesthetic improvement, then you really need to deal with it as a whole. If you treat one side of it, it will simply rot from the other side, especially the lower side which is exposed to much more moisture. salt and less sunlight.

If removing it absolutely isn't an option, which is unfortunate because you really need to, then you need to find a way to give it a gentle scrub down and rinse, before applying an oil or preservative. Given it's position, a little ingenuity with scrubbing brushes and rope or long rags might do it. Use a thin standard soft nylon brush for inside the squares. A detailing brush for mountain bikes might work well.

What you want to avoid, is trapping any muck in there with oil, moisture or other treatment. Not only will it look terrible, the teak itself will suffer, so its important to clean as much as you possibly can.

I've no idea about yacht specific products and were this anything else, I'd just go with teak oil. It needs applying fairly frequently to remain effective as it of course dries out over time.

Take caution with teak oil and the rags you use with it, if you choose that option. It's flammable and scrunched up rags can spontaneously combust, so open them out to fully dry before disposal and store oil appropriately.

 

[Martin_J]

As Concerto says.. no pressure washer or scrubbing... it'll wear down the soft parts of the wood.

I felt my 25 year old teak decks were abandoned..



Recommendations from here suggested the two part Wessex stuff.. Cleaner then renovator that just sponge on then rinse off.

 

[Martin_J]

The cleaner just seems to lift the muck and green stuff away and it all goes black after a few minutes..



But after a rinse off it already looks better...



And after the renovator had been washed over it all...



No scrubbing at all..

 

[ashtead]

If once having used the Wessex 2 part (other cleaners by star brite also work?) you might want to seal the teak with semco and keep it looking scrubbed. When you need to redo say next year you can clean semco off using washing powder and a little bleach for say baby bottles and dissolved in water and just scrub off with green kitchen pan scrubbers then hose off. This is cosmetic for tops but we do it to ourtowrails each year although cockpits capping last longer . We also use on table, gin and tonic seats etc. it’s about£40 a tin from force 4 etc.

 

[superheat6k]

Wessex two pack followed by Semco (clear) will make that gleam like new, and with minimal effort.

 

[harvey38]

Wessex two pack followed by Semco (clear) will make that gleam like new, and with minimal effort.

Hope you're correct, just ordered as you suggested

Just looking at some other photographs of the bathing platform, there is a slim possibility I may be able to remove it if I can back off the nuts on the underside making the who process a lot easier.

 

[Martin_J]

Manufacturer video (showing only a sponge used) surg a link to the technical data sheet.

Teak Cleaner (Part 1) - Wessex Boat Store - buy now

Interesting to note that the technical data sheet suggests not to mix the cleaner and the renovator or they will make each other non effective.

 

[Old Harry]

I usually get mine clean with a pressure washer and then teak oil if you want to keep it the teak colour rather than the oxidised grey.

Clean with oxalis acid or proprietary on teak brkfbtenerpressjdnet can do mucho damage to the joint/adhesive

Persl ay I wld kewwell away fr teak oils

 

[harvey38]

Clean with oxalis acid or proprietary on teak brkfbtenerpressjdnet can do mucho damage to the joint/adhesive

Persl ay I wld kewwell away fr teak oils

????????

 

[Bandit]

Don’t use a pressure cleaner as already explained.
Teak oil marks clothing and shoes it also traps dirt and allows algae to grow.
Don’t scrub with a hard stiff bristle scrubbing brush.
I use Boracol apply one coat, allow to dry apply a second , no oil, no smell will not mark clothing or shoes once dry it will soak into teak, apply one coat every six months.
All algae will die and after about 3 weeks it will lighten to a silver colour. As recommended by Halberg Rassy for teak decks.
I use it on boat decks, gratings, teak garden furniture.

 

[ChromeDome]

There are (at least) two schools on this , some with a religious approach. I have tried untreated, oil and alkyd oil (and varnish on non boaty things).

Your platform does not appear to be varnished, so preparation is simple:
Thorough cleaning can be done with Teak Cleaner, which is usually the first part of two-part treatment kits. Still grey, but clean.

The second part of the kit brightens the wood and brings it back to near new. Then the desired product can be used according to its instructions.

Both oils and varnishes are available with or without pigment and if you choose oil, which lasts shorter and therefore needs to be repeated, the pigment will gradually darken it. Perhaps too dark for your liking.

If unhappy with the oil, a new treatment with two-parts will bring it back again

Alkyd oil lasts a long time and has an elastic property that prevents it from cracking when the wood is working. Not difficult to apply, result is similar to varnish (I use Jotun Benar UV)