Teak oil

alanporter

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Swindlerys charge a lot for Teak Oil. What is the difference between "genuine" teak oil and such as orange oil and lemon oil that you can buy at half the price for cleaning furniture ? Would this be good enough for external teak on a saltwater boat ?



<hr width=100% size=1>Alan Porter
 

roger

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PBO tested a number of them a year or so ago and concluded that Rustins Teak oil was better than all the marine products they tried. My experience is in agreement. You do have to keep putting the stuff on during the season - keep it slightly glossy and the teak doesnt go grey/

<hr width=100% size=1>Roger
 

Captain Coochie

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I always use pure Linseed oil for windows and doors but thats not near salt water . I think most of these oils are linseed based so why not use the pure stuff , its cheaper too .

<hr width=100% size=1>No thankyou , i don't drink .
 

Spuddy

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The old boiled linseed is pretty good, but the commercial teak oils have a few others plus a drop of dryers so it doesn't stay sticky for quite so long.
For topside use, the cheapest teak oil should really perform as well as the most expensive. For interior use where protection comes second to aesthetics there might be a difference - a greater proportion of tung oil could affect things.
On my tatty old boat I'll stick to cheap and cheerful.
spuddy.

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Evadne

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Danish oil. You can buy it in hardware shops or B&Q, it's not particularly cheap, even in B&Q but it has a high proportion of Tung oil and is very good. Two coats, applied with a rag or brush, and if you're fussy you can polish it. I don't think it has the self-igniting properties of linseed.

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omega2

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We have tried almost everything on our gunnle's, from Sikkens to Danish oil to Homebase and the rest, but now have found one that sticks, Ronseal garden furniture preserver, it's been on for 4 months and so far so good much longer than the rest we have tried, although to fair we are treating Iroko which is about as absorbant as stainless steel.

<hr width=100% size=1>J HAMER
 
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