Teak interior joinery project, am I being too ambitious?

Steve_Jones

Steve_Jones

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This is my first wood working project, so if there are any really dumb questions in here, please tell me! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I am attempting to fit an 'L' shaped shelf unit to the heads compartment, this is a fairly wide shelf into which I intend to fit a small handbasin. I have cut a template from MDF and now need to source the teak to make the final unit. The overall dimensions of the rectangular 'blank' that I could cut from are approx. 1000mm x 800mm by approx. 25mm thick, but of course much of this would be 'wasted' (or used for other, smaller, projects) although it would produce a finished item with no joins and be easy for a novice!! I am guessing that such a wide panel would actually be a series of boards glued together in the same way as a table top or similar. Alternatively, I need to find someone with the skills/tools to fabricate the whole thing.

Does anyone have any advice on who to contact or how to approach this from a different (and more sensible perhaps!) angle.

I hope this makes sense to someone!
 
Unless you are very rich or live in Burma you will have to forget teak. However there are plenty of hardwoods left to use.
One of the best sources for used hardwood is auctions of old furniture, not antiques but things from between the wars, people dont want them as they are ugly and they go for very little. But the wood is usually very good.
You will probably have to make up a piece as big as you want out of narrower planks using biscuit joints to strenghen the joints.
There is no reason that you cant do all this yourself, go down to the library , get a book on woodworking.
Think of the satisfaction of saying "I made that"
 
It does make sense and you are right, it will need to be made up from a few boards joined together. To be honest it will probably be best to get it made up unless you have the skills and tools to do the job properly and, from the tone of your question I think you are a little uncertain of your ability to do this job.

If you want to have a go yourself it may be worth trying to get hold of an old laboratory workbench top. These were usually made from teak and all the joining, which is probably the hardest part of the job, will have been done for you. If you can, beg borrow or steal a router so that you can get a good consistent radius on all the edges.
 
You are correct that a board of that width would need to be fabricated, you may be better getting that outsourced as that is probably the hardest bit. With templates, tools, time and patience the rest should not pose too many problems but one piece of advice would be "measure twice and cut once"

Best of luck
 
You could pick a cheap biscuit jointer up at homebase or wicks for the job . Or find a kitchen company that has off cuts of solid timber worktops . Teak can be bought but is very expensive and im guessing that little lot would cost over £100 .
If you do have a go at it you will need to alternate the grain so you limit the amount of cupping you will get .
Or you could bring the template to me and ill do it for you /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Not sure why you don't do what all boat bulders do: build it from teak faced play and put edge trim on in teak.

Build a frame under it to stiffen/strengthen it if needed.

I can't think of ANY boat builder who would try to build such a shelf out of solid teak. Ply is dimensionally more stable and with trim on the edge, you can't tell that its plywood anyway...

KJ Howells sell teak faced plywood and appropriate trim for the edges - even internal and external radius curves as well. Be accurate in your cutting and it will look very smart and professional.
 
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Not sure why you don't do what all boat bulders do: build it from teak faced play and put edge trim on in teak.


[/ QUOTE ]

Good point! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
I would not use beech on my boat either internally or externally. Beech moves too much with moisture content, something that cannot easily be controlled on a boat. For dimensional stability I would go for Teak, Iroko or Oak. Just my personal choice of course, having seen one major internal refit go tits up as the owner wanted, and insisted on, solid beech.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
First thing - as others have stated, such a board would have to be made up. Its not just a question of a biscuit jointer & glue. I make up boards regularly and unless you have decent planing & clamping kit its easy to make a pigs ear of it.
Secondly you want to fit a small basin. That means whatever you fit will eventually get wet however well you seal it on day 1.

My suggestion would be.
Buy marine ply.You can buy this with a white laminate face or a teak face. I recommend a laminate face since however you treat the teak face it will not respond well to a very wet environment. A marine ply will withstand water better than a cheap ply from B & Q and the laminate is like a kitchen work surface.

When you cut the hole for the basin, seal the exposed ply edge with epoxy resin for longer term protection.Seal all the outer edges too.
If you dont want a white finish, buy a plain finished ply and glue your own laminate on top - you have a hundred and one finishes to choose from and it is not as dificult at first appears. If you want to do that, send me a PM and I'll answer in more detail.

Have a go - its lots more fun than paying someone else
 
Thanks a million everyone who has replied so far!!!

This is the kind of advice and help which makes these forums the superb resource they are.

You've given me a number of options to persue, the idea of using secondhand furniture is one that immediately appeals, I've found a number of teak dining table and chair sets on eBay which would fit the bill, so long as they're solid and not veneer... anyone on here need a set of six teak dining chairs! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Thanks again, if it all goes well I'll post some pics of the project.
 
Thanks for reminding me - Ash is another one to avoid although it does make a nice contrasting timber when laminating up tillers and such. I have made quite a few without any problems/complaints.
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hammer.thumb.gif
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
Howells in Poole or Robbins in Bristol, if you live on the East Coast there are local suppliers - best to put a new message on the Forum.
 
WPB plywood - water resistant rather than marine quality, and price, is available from the likes of Wickes & B&Q if you just want a half sheet or small amount, they also do full sheets as well. It may be worth ringing around a few local suppliers.

WPB will do for a bathroom & kitchen units and worktops as marine quality plywood is only really needed where the wood is in constant contact with water.

Solid Beech worktops would probably be too heavy for a boat and will move a lot even when treated and oiled. I have a few 6ft x 3ft x 1 1/2 inch sheets of laminated beech and they weight a bloody ton.
 
As an ex-cabinet maker and joiner I hate solid wood where it can get wet eg worktops, and beech is just about the worst - very unstable.

To get a long-lasting laminated top in thickish timber (ie >25mm) needs perfect joints and good glues).

Have you considered a resin top eg corian? Can be made up by a supplier to a template and will include hole for a basin, and is waterproof and will probably last longer than the boat.
 
i, too would recommend ply; jointing it up out of solid would mean perfect edge joints, borrowing cramps and cleaning up with planes in tip top order. Manufacturers and yards would use ply. You could use wbp and then skin the top with a bit of 4mm which had a decent veneer - this would be more economical but for such a small project its probably not worth it. Why not get down to a decent supplier and get the ply plus some strips for the lipping that will match. i.e not just the same species but a good grain and colour match.
That PU glue is brilliant - balcotan or summat. Cramp on the lipping, using mitres, or pin em on. Have the top of lipping sticking up 1/2 a mm and then bring it down flush with top.
Good bodging
 
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