dj43
Well-Known Member
sorry if this has been done before, but reading back through past threads, why do most prefer not to apply oil to there teak decks, notice in this months mag, that they are recommending to apply oil a little and often,
teak decks
- Thread starter dj43
- Start date
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
All sorts of stuff about maintenance gets quoted. Keeping them clean but unoiled works for me. Two part cleaner, bosh, bosh, bosh. Rinse it off and robert's yer mother's brother.
Others will be along with more technical comments, no doubt.
One thing to watch is the thickness of teak which will circumscribe what you can do. When I bought my current boat the teak looked like this:
After a false start with a sealing product I checked that there was plenty of depth of teak to work with, sanded it thoroughly and ended up with this:
which is really quite easy to keep looking smart.
Others will be along with more technical comments, no doubt.
One thing to watch is the thickness of teak which will circumscribe what you can do. When I bought my current boat the teak looked like this:
After a false start with a sealing product I checked that there was plenty of depth of teak to work with, sanded it thoroughly and ended up with this:
which is really quite easy to keep looking smart.
kashurst
Well-Known Member
use two part cleaner from windwards trading and others, you get a lovely as new finish. they do a sealer too to keep the muck off and adds a bit of stain resistance. if you oil it it gets slippy and attracts more dirt.
some people just throw a bucket of seawater on it and keep the grey appearance
some people just throw a bucket of seawater on it and keep the grey appearance
jfm
Well-Known Member
Depends what you want to achieve. If you want proper yacht standards, which means a smooth light brown colour exactly as in BJB's second picture above, then the regime is: (a) frequent cleaning with a soft deck brush and a soft brush cleaner; (b) quite frequent use of 2 part cleaner but not the third sealer part (c) plenty of freshwater washdowns - not saltwater (d) light power sand every couple of years.
If you want the silver/grey look (yuk, imho) don't do any of the above. Just pretty much ignore them and do nothing
But never ever oil them
All imho
If you want the silver/grey look (yuk, imho) don't do any of the above. Just pretty much ignore them and do nothing
But never ever oil them
All imho
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dj43
Well-Known Member
Hi All
Thanks for the replys, as I like the new look finish, will try two part cleaning without the sealer, some of the teak looks very thin so hope it wont need sanding.
Thanks for the replys, as I like the new look finish, will try two part cleaning without the sealer, some of the teak looks very thin so hope it wont need sanding.
rubberduck
Well-Known Member
Interestingly, My boat,An Absolute 41 new in 2009, has teak lifting at the edges on the swim platform, the rest is fine. We got her in Nov 2009 & had her hauled out for a complete going over in March 2010 including teak, repeated the exercise this year in Jan but the boatyard left the swim platform due to defects found. Absolute are trying to blame this on lack of maintenance. Could be a new thread starting soon. Where would be the best place to "Do a Gludy" on them ?
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martin
Well-Known Member
Interesting
How can lack of maintenance can cause the teak to lift at the edges??
Does maintenance include glue or nails?
How can lack of maintenance can cause the teak to lift at the edges??
Does maintenance include glue or nails?
jfm
Well-Known Member
Unless I'm misunderstanding this is simple to repair. Use little wooden wedges to prise up the corners/edges that are lifting, squirt in black sikaflex, apply a weight, clean off, and sand. Job done. I know this shouldn't happen and it's poor show on Absolute's part (I suspect the new UK dealer isn't interested in helping you...) and the "lack of maintenance" assertion is a pretty outrageous fob off attempt, but it would be easier to fix it than go legal/gludy-esque, on the grounds life is too short. all imho
Consider a Fairline next time. I know I rattle on about Fairline but the quality of support you get from them in combo with the fantastic Essex Boatyards is pretty fantastic. There is a problem with a bit of oak veneer on one of the wall panels in the port side loo on my boat. Fairline/Essex Boatyards are making a new veneered panel, about 3 foot x 6 foot. They email me to say "it's been scheduled for making", "it's being made", "it's been despatched to France", etc) and when it arrives next week they are putting a guy on a plane to install it
mjf
Well-Known Member
jfm
Thats fab to hear EBY doing their stuff for you and indeed you are getting top top service.
However there are quite a lot of owners of quite recent Fairline boats (later than 2009) that do not feel the same and indeed appear not to enjoy the rapport you have engineered with EBY Hq.
Its always a bit of a hard call when listening to various owners as sometimes its down to expectation and personalities
Thats fab to hear EBY doing their stuff for you and indeed you are getting top top service.
However there are quite a lot of owners of quite recent Fairline boats (later than 2009) that do not feel the same and indeed appear not to enjoy the rapport you have engineered with EBY Hq.
Its always a bit of a hard call when listening to various owners as sometimes its down to expectation and personalities
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
The oil or not oil is a personal thing. I oil 2 to 3 times a season. The bathing platform needs more maintenance than the cockpit for obvious reasons. I am going to sand this winter.
Oxalic acid is great for bringing oil old stains, and easy to use.
It is just one of the maintenance tasks in a boat. I'm happy to do it as the boat looks fantastic as a result.
John (JFM) you clearly have a fantastic rapport with EBY, and I guess part of this is that you are very constructive to work with. Being a cynic, I guess your contribution to their margin this year is also helpful, but if both parties are happy, then a great result.
Oxalic acid is great for bringing oil old stains, and easy to use.
It is just one of the maintenance tasks in a boat. I'm happy to do it as the boat looks fantastic as a result.
John (JFM) you clearly have a fantastic rapport with EBY, and I guess part of this is that you are very constructive to work with. Being a cynic, I guess your contribution to their margin this year is also helpful, but if both parties are happy, then a great result.
rubberduck
Well-Known Member
Is there a new UK dealer ? I bought a Doral from EBY and must admit that they put everything right in the end despite no back up from the Doral UK main dealer, but it took a while which I can understand under the circumstances.
njsail
Active Member
I've seen a few really bad reactions to oil. There are some brands of teak caulking that will literally melt into a black oily gooey mess if you put oil on it. The fix for this type of mistake is to recaulk the affected area.
The key to keeping a teak deck from lifting is proper caulking (the black stuff between the teak boards). If you look carefully teak decks are designed to have NO end grain showing on the teak. Water can easily be wicked into or under teak if the end grain is exposed. The caulking should cover end grain and internal edges. Good luck.
The key to keeping a teak deck from lifting is proper caulking (the black stuff between the teak boards). If you look carefully teak decks are designed to have NO end grain showing on the teak. Water can easily be wicked into or under teak if the end grain is exposed. The caulking should cover end grain and internal edges. Good luck.
Thepipdoc
Well-Known Member
All sorts of stuff about maintenance gets quoted. Keeping them clean but unoiled works for me. Two part cleaner, bosh, bosh, bosh. Rinse it off and robert's yer mother's brother.
Others will be along with more technical comments, no doubt.
One thing to watch is the thickness of teak which will circumscribe what you can do. When I bought my current boat the teak looked like this:
After a false start with a sealing product I checked that there was plenty of depth of teak to work with, sanded it thoroughly and ended up with this:
which is really quite easy to keep looking smart.
I dropped a bit of a clanger earlier this year and I treated my aft deck with some sort of "wonder" product - Starbright Deck Sealer!
I really don't know what I was thinking but they say you learn from your mistakes and I certainly have.
Anyway, I've now had to resort to sanding the deck and I have to say the finish I've now got is better than ever.
What I want to now is to keep the "golden" coulour it now has. What I want to now is to keep the "golden" coulour it now has. What's the best product to use to keep this golden glow?
Oh and by the way does anyone want atin of Starbright Deck Tropical Deck Sealer?
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benjenbav
Well-Known Member
As jfm says:
Thepipdoc
Well-Known Member
Part 2?
I don't know what part 1 is, so part 2 is an even bigger mystery!
I don't know what part 1 is, so part 2 is an even bigger mystery!
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
Various proprietary brands (Wessex/Starbrite) sell two part cleaner/brighteners. Basically you dilute and then put the part 1 cleaner on, rinse it off then dilute and apply the part 2 brightener and then rinse that off.
If the teak is pretty clean I believe you can get away with just the part 2 brightener, but it's really no trouble to do both.
If the teak is pretty clean I believe you can get away with just the part 2 brightener, but it's really no trouble to do both.
Thepipdoc
Well-Known Member
OK - thanks.
Do I need to oil it after applying part 2 cleaner?
If so which brand do you recommend for a light golden finish?
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
Don't apply anything after the part 2 cleaner and rinsing it off.
Thepipdoc
Well-Known Member
Thanks again.
njsail
Active Member
just a warning note on some of the two part cleaners. in some 2 part cleaners Part A is an active ingredient that foams and froths to lift the dirt from the wood pores. It's caustic or acidic. Part B is the chemical that inactivates Part A and stops the process. If you use a 2 part please make sure you read the directions "carefully". I used it once and it came out really nice but it was a lot of trouble. Make sure you wet all your boat down and your neighbors boats too in case it spashs. Starbright non-skid cleaner with PETE works great too. It's not as aggressive as the 2 part but you can get close to the clean honey look. Then you can use a brush to do the rest.
