Teak Deck Plugs

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Cheeky Girl

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Some of the plugs on my teak deck have come away / broken. (does it matter apart from looks?)

What is the best way to fix?
Can you buy Teak plugs or do I need to make my own?
If needing to make my own I have some old hardwood but not sure if teak would it matter if I used this.

How would I fix the plugs in?

Sorry for so many questions but have only cleaned the deck before.
Thanks
 
You can get plugs from HR spares, and no doubt elsewhere. You may also need replacement screws with low profile heads. I have done a few on my deck, and it’s not difficult. I cut a piece of plug that is a little too long, stick it in, and shave off the top when it has dried.
 
Depends on the boat. As johnalison says HRs sell plugs and low profile screws but nit sure they are compatible with other decks. If the plugs are coming out or breaking that suggests the deck is worn and there may not be enough depth to replace the plugs without drilling deeper and using low profile head screws. You will only find out when you remove them. As to the plugs, yes you can buy the, here is a good sourcekjhowells.co.uk but you need to get the exact size. You can of course make your own which might be useful if you have to overbore the holes because they are damaged. I have done both but you heed a drill stand to cut your own as in this photo of my last plug cutting session. I did these because they were a non standard 9.5mm.

IMG_20220817_193951.jpg

Yes, you need to use teak - you can get offcuts from Howells. There are alternative methods of sticking them in but my preference is for using a polyurethane adhesive such as Sikaflex or CT1 which is what I used on this job.

IMG_20220817_193905.jpg
 
Tranona said:
. I did these because they were a non standard 9.5mm
Click to expand...
9.5mm is actually quite common as it's 3/8" . I think a problem arises from some of these cheap sets (which work fine) they may be imperial but listed in misleading metric sizes or vica versa. Some cut tapered plugs which can certainly make for a nice tight fit.
Never thought of using sika or similar :)
 
Replacing the screws with countersunk instead of round head will get you a bit more room. You can glue them in with any waterproof glue. Some people have been known to use varnish. Leave them proud and use a VERY sharp chisel and only shave off a little at a time. Sand the last bit.
If you need even more room for the plug, then remove the screw and VERY carefully drill the hole deeper and replace the screw.
I always cut my own plugs but you can buy them.
Yes you ought to use teak plugs in teak.
Remember to align the grain.
 
These are the tapered plug cutters mentioned:

Veritas Tapered Snug Plug Cutters

I rate them as they compensate for dodgy or slightly damaged holes. I would carefully measure, buy one to suit and cut your own plugs, it would soon pay for itself with a teak deck.
If you have 10mm I could send you some to try before you buy. PM me if you like.

.
 
Unless the hole is also tapered, I would advise against tapered plugs on teak deck. The contact area between plug and plank will be much reduced.
 
doug748 said:
These are the tapered plug cutters mentioned:

Veritas Tapered Snug Plug Cutters

I rate them as they compensate for dodgy or slightly damaged holes. I would carefully measure, buy one to suit and cut your own plugs, it would soon pay for itself with a teak deck.
If you have 10mm I could send you some to try before you buy. PM me if you like.

.
Click to expand...
I’ve used them too. They’re the business.
 
Here are the Low profile screws and teak plugs from Hallberg-Rassy spares. I had a guy come and check our Maxi 999's deck, where many plugs are missing: he recommended having a good selection of various-sized screws, countersunk and otherwise, as where screws have been screwed into the underlying gelcoat deck, you may have to go up one size with the new screws so that they get purchase in the existing hole in the gelcoat. Haven't got round to trying it yet...
 
BabaYaga said:
Unless the hole is also tapered, I would advise against tapered plugs on teak deck. The contact area between plug and plank will be much reduced.
Click to expand...

The first 3mm is parallel and the rest is @ 3 degrees.

I think, with a worn deck, even the 3mm might have to be reduced to get a bite. Another thing I have done is to countersink the underside of the plug to get a little extra room above the screwhead.

.
 
doug748 said:
The first 3mm is parallel and the rest is @ 3 degrees.

I think, with a worn deck, even the 3mm might have to be reduced to get a bite. Another thing I have done is to countersink the underside of the plug to get a little extra room above the screwhead.

.
Click to expand...
OK, that may be acceptable on a worn deck where the available depth for the plug is 3mm or less.
Personally I would always first look at increasing the depth by changing out the screw for a flat head one and if possible drill the hole a little deeper.
 
I've read somewhere, or perhaps seen on a vlog (maybe FairIsle?) that the screw is superfluous, once the deck is down and glued the screw can safely be removed, hole filled with epoxy, plug replaced. This needs confirming before believing as maybe I dreamt that one dark and stromy night....
 
Robih said:
I've read somewhere, or perhaps seen on a vlog (maybe FairIsle?) that the screw is superfluous, once the deck is down and glued the screw can safely be removed, hole filled with epoxy, plug replaced. This needs confirming before believing as maybe I dreamt that one dark and stromy night....
Click to expand...
That makes sense.

If the epoxy is sufficiently thin so that it flows down into the screw hole you are, in effect, replacing a metal screw with a durable epoxy 'peg' (for want of a better word).

If the plank ever had to be removed intact, it would be easy to drill out sufficient of the epoxy peg to release it.
 
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