Targa 40 Battery Wiring

[bluetooth]

Pinnacle and VicS are almost there, but not quite: the rh battery is a dedicated engine start battery (for starboard iirc); the centre and lh batteries are the house bank *and* engine start for port. And yes, this is the standard wiring for T40s. The house bank is charged by the charger; the dedicated engine start battery is only ever charged by the alternator.

Ok might be dumb question but I have now checked my T40 and found the set up same as above. But why isn't/doesn't (? shouldn't) the dedicated (SB) engine battery not be charged by charger and just rely on alternator ?
I had thought mine was until this thread appeared.

Simon

 

[petem]

Ok might be dumb question but I have now checked my T40 and found the set up same as above. But why isn't/doesn't (? shouldn't) the dedicated (SB) engine battery not be charged by charger and just rely on alternator ?
I had thought mine was until this thread appeared.

Simon

Because even a connection to the charger could lead to some battery leakage on the s/b side. Fairline didn't want the s/b to be connected to anything other than the alternator.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Because even a connection to the charger could lead to some battery leakage on the s/b side. Fairline didn't want the s/b to be connected to anything other than the alternator.

An alternative answer is that the battery actually lasts much longer if it isn't just being boiled away by a charger for 99.9% of its life. That's certainly been my experience.

 

[bluetooth]

An alternative answer is that the battery actually lasts much longer if it isn't just being boiled away by a charger for 99.9% of its life. That's certainly been my experience.

Both answers will do. Cheers

 

[Portofino]

Today’s chargers have a range of auto settings ,like bulk ,float , trickle and even de sulphate .
Some even have temp sensors on the bats .
You tend not to get the 99 .9 % boiling away senario , more kept in best state - ready .
It’s deep discharges , a few of those and it looses ability to hold charge and the working life span for diesel eng starting drops .
Modern charges also have multiple outlets each capable of doing its own thing independently, eg the house bank may be on bulk after returning from a night at anchor ( or starting the geny @ anchor + turning the charger on ) , while eng on float - because you did a long motoring stint the previous day which the alternator(s) topped up all , them the fridges / lights / toilets - emptied the house during the night @ anchor .

A dead boat , dead mans click of the solenoid is not the best “ hello “ when you turn the key .

Further more with modern electronic engines like say a D6 , it’s surprising how much juice is actually needed to run the elecrotwackery .
So there may be enough juice to engage the solenoid- turn / crank the engine , but if there’s say a rpm sensor that’s does not see the correct rpm it’s does,t tell another black box say guessing injection rail pump to do its thing .
Here you have a cranking engine which sounds almost as fast but not quite and it won,t fire .
Very soon the low eng bat is now even deeper discharged until you finally give up as so low you hear dead mans click .

A old school mech sans elecrotwackery engine would have fired in the same circumstances.
How ever we are where we are and there’s no turning back the clock

So the argument for monitoring and trickling the engine bats is more compelling - yes ?

So let me get this straight.- with FL , the T40 and poss others ?
One engine side gets zero charge from 22O v - alternator only
Other engine is connected to the house which gets the 220 V charge - be it shore power or geny .
But surely the “ house “ side is then on “99.9 % - boiling away status “ leaving the “ engine “ to naturally decay risking multiple or tending to deeper discharges ., if your charger is old fashioned and the bats liquid lead acid
If you are gonna top one side up then why not both ? —- charges that “float / trickle “ etc have been around ages .

 

[stelican]

Starboard battery charging. Earlier Fairline Targas had an additional charging link from the portside alternator through a blocking diode to the stb starting battery. Not sure if this was continued post circa2002
May also have been fitted to Phantom range.

 

[stelican]

In the absence of the manual. You push and hold the battery crossfeed button on the dash.

Also recommended in manual to keep the link held for approx 30 seconds so that stb alt can sense voltage and energise.

 

[petem]

Today’s chargers have a range of auto settings ,like bulk ,float , trickle and even de sulphate .
Some even have temp sensors on the bats .
You tend not to get the 99 .9 % boiling away senario , more kept in best state - ready .
It’s deep discharges , a few of those and it looses ability to hold charge and the working life span for diesel eng starting drops .
Modern charges also have multiple outlets each capable of doing its own thing independently, eg the house bank may be on bulk after returning from a night at anchor ( or starting the geny @ anchor + turning the charger on ) , while eng on float - because you did a long motoring stint the previous day which the alternator(s) topped up all , them the fridges / lights / toilets - emptied the house during the night @ anchor .

A dead boat , dead mans click of the solenoid is not the best “ hello “ when you turn the key .

Further more with modern electronic engines like say a D6 , it’s surprising how much juice is actually needed to run the elecrotwackery .
So there may be enough juice to engage the solenoid- turn / crank the engine , but if there’s say a rpm sensor that’s does not see the correct rpm it’s does,t tell another black box say guessing injection rail pump to do its thing .
Here you have a cranking engine which sounds almost as fast but not quite and it won,t fire .
Very soon the low eng bat is now even deeper discharged until you finally give up as so low you hear dead mans click .

A old school mech sans elecrotwackery engine would have fired in the same circumstances.
How ever we are where we are and there’s no turning back the clock

So the argument for monitoring and trickling the engine bats is more compelling - yes ?

So let me get this straight.- with FL , the T40 and poss others ?
One engine side gets zero charge from 22O v - alternator only
Other engine is connected to the house which gets the 220 V charge - be it shore power or geny .
But surely the “ house “ side is then on “99.9 % - boiling away status “ leaving the “ engine “ to naturally decay risking multiple or tending to deeper discharges ., if your charger is old fashioned and the bats liquid lead acid
If you are gonna top one side up then why not both ? —- charges that “float / trickle “ etc have been around ages .

I agree, assuming a new battery charger is working as it should, then the life of the battery shouldn't be impacted. But I believe Fairline's point is that a charger could develop a fault that could drain the battery (or boil it as per JtB above). So they are minimizing the equipment that's connected to the s/b battery.

So from a port engine perspective, the battery is used solely to start the battery and will be charged via one of the two alternators (protected by a diode as Stelican states above). In other words, it's just like a car (but without any of the batter draining risks, such as leaving lights on) and I therefore see no point in trying to alter it.