TAMD61A running a little hot

Murv

Murv

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Only at high revs, but it creeps above 100degC at full throttle whereas the port engine sits resolutely under 95.
It's not a big problem, and it sits at around 92 deg C if we keep at 17-18 knots and the priority for this Year is just to get used to the boat, use it and enjoy it so I have no intention of stripping anything down and taking it out of action before the Winter.

Is there anything I can easily do to see if it will help?
I need to drain and refill the closed water system, is that the best place to start?
The intake strainers are clear and there is no easy access to the heat exchanger.
 
start with the antifreeze side of the system - check water pump/drive belt, water level, connection to temp sensor, antifreeze leaks. Then have a look at the raw water pump, the impeller - how old/what condition is it in? If there are any easily removable hoses around the heat exchangers - take them off and have a look inside, check out raw water strainer filter. After that its probably heat exchanger cleaning time. I think (but check with VP etc) you can take the top of the heat exchanger assembly to clean the top of the tubes/rod it through (very carefully) without taking the exchanger off the engine. Gearbox cooler is easy to check - take the hoses off and have a look inside.
Does the hot engine have more white smoke(steam) from the exhaust compared to the cooler engine? could also be bunged up exhaust elbow.
 
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Based on a lot of experience with TAMD71B's (which I appreciate are different)I would have said the first place to look would be the raw water impellor and wear plate and then progress to the sealed side. Whilst not impossible, unlikely to be the closed system. You may also be persuaded to strip the intercoolers and to flush with acid. Again, mixed responses on the validity of this - seems to be a stock diagnosis and I've never seen the evidence (I've worked on the intercoolers too - never seen significant scale deposits although again, I'm sure others may have so this is just personal experience). Cooling issues can be a money pit if you let it....
 
Thanks both, that gives me a few options :)
The impeller is new and the raw water pump was rebuilt recently so suspect I'll have to get a bit more in-depth with it.
There is no noticeable steam from the engine, and no other symptoms than the gauge reading hotter.
I have a couple of thermometers to fit to the exhausts, I guess they'll show up if it's just a gauge issue. Thinking about it, I will also get some measurements with the laser thermometer, just in case!
 
It does seem your running bit too hot at high revs. As advised to me, these engines should hover around 85c at cruising speed. Last season ours had crept to 90c at continuous cruise of 2300rpm, so Volvopaul during winter stripped and cleaned all heat exchangers, after coolers and gearbox oil coolers, amongst other works on the engines and on my current holiday she's running few degrees cooler now at cruise speed, so another satisfied boater (though my starboard flybridge throttle cable breaking wasn't the greatest start to the hol on the first day, bl**dy boats you gotta love em :) ).
 
Thanks both, I have a few things to try now.

Jon, that's a pain! At least it's an easy (and cheap) fix which makes a change! It was the flybridge stbd throttle cable that had broken on mine when I got it.
 
Murv said:
Thanks both, I have a few things to try now.

Jon, that's a pain! At least it's an easy (and cheap) fix which makes a change! It was the flybridge stbd throttle cable that had broken on mine when I got it.
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Another item I've seen advised on here (again credit goes to Volvopaul) is the raw water exhaust elbow cooling waterways can get blocked causing higher running temps.

Ref the cable breaking, Saturday went from being a nice relaxed early start, to having to return to the mooring to get the car, sitting in bank holiday traffic for 4hrs to travel and pick up new cable, which I managed to fit in double quick time and we were back on our way in the afternoon.
 
Thanks both, plenty of options then :) Jon, glad you got it sorted relatively quickly!

Piers, I've no idea when it was last done, so I have to assume it hasn't been. It was on the non-tidal Thames for at least two Years before I bought it, but I guess the water there is quite hard anyway.
Thanks for your link, that's a neat way of tackling it with a good result.

I've ordered most of the service items for the engines this morning, at that price I'm assuming they come complete with an engineer to do the work!
Not sure whether to remove all the furniture, carpet and floors and do the whole lot over a weekend now, or tackle it bit by bit.
Given the access issues, I'm probably better off doing it all in one go I think,
 
Given the access issues, I'm probably better off doing it all in one go I think,
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An idler comments....
If you do it all in one go you will never know what caused the problem.
If the same problem occurs again in the future,will you want to do everything again, rather than go directly to the cause of the problem ?. :)
Speak to John on "DUGA" or Harry,VAGABOND II.
Both have very recently dismantled heat exchangers on the 306 hp Turbo 36 engines and can tell you the sheer amount of work involved.
Better to do little bit each time and be able use the boat inbetween.
If you break something getting bits such as studs and the like while dismantling heat exchangers some of those long summer days will be spent tied up watching other boats going out for the day.
If not desperately urgent perhaps major dismantling best left until autumn.

Weather is looking good this weekend.
 
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Murv said:
Piers, I've no idea when it was last done, so I have to assume it hasn't been. It was on the non-tidal Thames for at least two Years before I bought it, but I guess the water there is quite hard anyway. Thanks for your link, that's a neat way of tackling it with a good result.
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You'll find it's a really easy and simple way of de-scaling. And the bonus is you do the whole engine in one go, not just the heat exchanger, and with no dismantling of parts. Simples!
 
oldgit said:
An idler comments....
If you do it all in one go you will never know what caused the problem.
If the same problem occurs again in the future,will you want to do everything again, rather than go directly to the cause of the problem ?. :)
Speak to John on "DUGA" or Harry,VAGABOND II.
Both have very recently dismantled heat exchangers on the 306 hp Turbo 36 engines and can tell you the sheer amount of work involved.
Better to do little bit each time and be able use the boat inbetween.
If you break something getting bits such as studs and the like while dismantling heat exchangers some of those long summer days will be spent tied up watching other boats going out for the day.
If not desperately urgent perhaps major dismantling best left until autumn.

Weather is looking good this weekend.
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Thanks Fred, that was exactly my feelings on it as per my opening post :)
I need to service the engines anyway though, it's been playing on my mind since day 1 and if I descale in-situ, it will be fairly quick and easy to either add something via the exhausts or even set up a system like Piers did. I can then leave them descaling whilst I do the oil and filters.
The port engine heat exchanger (the one with no cooling issues) I reckon I could remove in about 10 minutes, the starboard one I guess would take as many Years to remove as it will take me to train a team of ferrets to carry out the task. Can't even see the thing!
I certainly have absolutely NO intention of watching from the sidelines this year, we wasted enough of the last 3 Years doing just that!
Just need to balance the desire to get out boating against the angst of watching Gary pulling away from us!!

Piers said:
You'll find it's a really easy and simple way of de-scaling. And the bonus is you do the whole engine in one go, not just the heat exchanger, and with no dismantling of parts. Simples!
Click to expand...

Simples is good in my book! Thanks again,
 
Recently rigged up a descaling system using a fuel transfer pump.
Bought 4L marine 0f Rydwhotsit descaler and pumped it round the raw water system in reverse for about 40 mins.Then flushed.Some muck came out
It did not make the slightest difference. :)
 
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If you spread the maintenance throughout the year as a continuous programme, you are regularly close up and personal with the engines, which IMHO gives you more direct experience and familiarity and allows you to quickly note any deterioration, and note down any minor defects that require sorting. LED light strips transform working in the engine bay and are cheap and chips from Ebay.

Also with the Turbo 36 you might be able to cut in half the aft most floor board along the fore and aft centre line which gives far better access to the gearbox end of the engines. I also chopped my port side sofa (the L shaped one) into two parts when I had it re-upholstered as this made access to the port engine simpler without having to get Pickfords in just to open the engine hatches.

I recall the stbd engine was a twat for the oil filters and in particular the sea water impeller. The fuel filters and stop solenoid were the difficult parts on the port (TAMD60C).
 
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