Taking care of teak bathing platform...

  • Thread starter Thread starter alt
  • Start date Start date
alt

alt

Well-Known Member
Joined
24 Oct 2006
Messages
4,137
Location
Éire
Visit site
Folks,
Many of you guys here really know your teak and how to take care of it, from reading previous posts.

I have a teak platform that is looking more than a little tired. It has been power-hosed in the past and is rough. I actually like the bright look, but I fear that if it remains un-protected that it will start to get into a bad shape.

Since it feels rough, I was thinking a sanding would do it well, but don't want to sand it to bits, so looking for advise.

And what would one do after a sanding to seal/protect? I'm not too pushed about whether it looks dark and coloured, or remains light.... I just want it to be smooth and protected.

Ideas/advise anyone? :)
 
tricky to answer without knowing how thick the teak is.
If it's a fairline ( mid to late 1990's) with 3mm teak on marine ply probably best not to sand it. if its 6mm + then it should be fine to sand - check with manufacturer if you can.
either way when you have done that use a two pack teak cleaner -(wear gloves) to get it spot on then use a sealer. This will protect it from wine/beer/diesel spills etc . With a sealant it lasts about 2 years before it needs re-doing depending on use. these can make it a bit orangey when you first put them on but it tones down quite quickly. there are some teak varnish coatings but these are semi permanent. Probably best not to use teak oil as used on garden furniture as it makes it sticky and is a dirt magnet and it will no doubt get on your carpets later. If it's good thick teak many people swear by a bucket of seawater but it does go grey.
 
Thanks for the info. I think the best thing to do would be to take a pic and share with you guys?

I don't know how thick the teak is, that's the only thing. It's a 2003 Cranchi Zaffiro 34.

Bear with me and i'll upload a picture tomorrow!

Thanks folks
 
alt said:
Thanks for the info. I think the best thing to do would be to take a pic and share with you guys?

I don't know how thick the teak is, that's the only thing. It's a 2003 Cranchi Zaffiro 34.

Bear with me and i'll upload a picture tomorrow!

Thanks folks
Click to expand...

Rough = less slippery = good for bathing platforms.
Ours is solid teak and we just give it an occasional stiff scrub across the grain and sling seawater over it. Scrubbing with the grain just makes it rougher.
 
Afternoon folks,
Find below pics of the teak in its current state. Can anyone make any recommendations as to what I should do? Remember that the colour of the teak doesn't bother me, what I am looking for is a way to protect the teak from any further damage.

BTW, I am in fresh water... i've heard that the old salt water trick works wonders, but alas no good to me!

IMG_3109Large.jpg

IMG_3108Large.jpg

IMG_3107Large.jpg

IMG_3106Large.jpg

IMG_3105Large.jpg

IMG_3104Large.jpg
 
I hand the same situation and layout on my Princess 46 last year. I read tons of posts on various forums. I finally decided to just get to orbital sander out and go to town with 120 grit. Best thing I ever did... Looks like new and now I follow all of the experts tips on cleaning and it has stayed perfect ever since.
 
ocgrant said:
I hand the same situation and layout on my Princess 46 last year. I read tons of posts on various forums. I finally decided to just get to orbital sander out and go to town with 120 grit. Best thing I ever did... Looks like new and now I follow all of the experts tips on cleaning and it has stayed perfect ever since.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. Can I ask what you did after the sanding? ie. what products you used?

I would like to avoid using oil etc. if possible, I am not pushed about the final colour so long as the teak is being protected from the elements
 
alt said:
Thanks for the response. Can I ask what you did after the sanding? ie. what products you used?

I would like to avoid using oil etc. if possible, I am not pushed about the final colour so long as the teak is being protected from the elements
Click to expand...

The best way to protect the teak, in fact the only way that really works, is to get a cover for it for when you're away from the boat. Given the cost and hassle of maintaining/repairing/replacing teak decks i'm surprised that a lot more people don't have covers for their decks. I guess everyone thinks they'll have changed boats by the time the work needs doing.


It doesn't look like you have a problem with the caulking standing proud of the deck, but if you do then get a razor sharp chisel and run it along the caulking joints. If you're doing it right then you should get a continuous ribbon of caulking shaved off the top. I did all the teak on my boat, cockpit, flybridge and swim platform, in less than a day last week, and it has vastly improved it. Do this before sanding, but don't forget to check how thick the teak is before letting loose with a sander.
 
alt said:
Thanks for the response. Can I ask what you did after the sanding? ie. what products you used?

I would like to avoid using oil etc. if possible, I am not pushed about the final colour so long as the teak is being protected from the elements
Click to expand...

The teak does not need "protecting" - that is why it is used in this application. It will not rot or decay, but it will get dirty with atmospheric pollution - hence the need for frequent washing. As already suggested a cover will reduce this.

The raised graining you are getting is because the teak is not the best type. It should be sawn so that the grain is vertical not horizontal. However, by the looks of the caulking it is basically sound and will respond well to a light sanding. It will be hepful to determine how thick it is and whether it is solid or a veneer on a ply substrate. If it is ply then sanding may take the veneer away. Whichever type it is, keeping it clean and covered when not in use will extend its life significantly.
 
Tranona said:
The teak does not need "protecting" - that is why it is used in this application. It will not rot or decay, but it will get dirty with atmospheric pollution - hence the need for frequent washing. As already suggested a cover will reduce this.
Click to expand...

Exposure to the atmosphere does more than dirty it though, the sun dries out the natural oils, and the acid in rainwater eats away at the teak, albeit very slowly.

I'm also not convinced from the photos that the caulking is sound, look at the second photo in particular.
 
You can tell from those pics that it is veneer, not solid teak. It has been made from a big sheet of teak veneered ply, with caulking grooves CNC cut, then filled with caulk. How do you tell? - the grain matches on adjacent planks, and the a bit-too-wide kingplank shouts "veneer" as well

I'd still sand it, carefully. Take off .25mm. Dont mess around: if you are competent start with 60 grit then about 180 and maybe a final wipe with something finer if you think it needs it. Orbital machine will be fine; you mustn't use a belt sander on such thin teak. And as nick says cut off the proud caulk with sharp blade first. Then do nothing with it except wash every few weeks or more often in dirty air, and 2-part cleaner every 3-4 months or whenever it has begun to go horrid grey-silver.

The "clean with saltwater" is an old wives' tale. The salt brings nothing to the party. Clean it with freshwater, as explained on other teak cleaning threads
 
Thank you very much for the helpful advise people, much appreciated.

Looks like the orbital sander and I are going to get to know each other in the next few weeks :) I'll start easy to be safe, and will be sure to cut any caulking that sits proud.

I'll update the thread for anyone who may find themselves in a similar situation in the future, but it'll be at least 2 weeks before I get to it (cause its cold outside!)
 
jfm said:
You can tell from those pics that it is veneer, not solid teak. It has been made from a big sheet of teak veneered ply, with caulking grooves CNC cut, then filled with caulk. How do you tell? - the grain matches on adjacent planks, and the a bit-too-wide kingplank shouts "veneer" as well
Click to expand...

It does as well!
I've learned something new.
 
Having seen my old Z34 while she was being built in Piantedo, I can confirm you that jfm is spot on with his analysis.
But I must say that I'm not so optimistic on the chances to bring it back to a nice smooth surface. Trouble is, both the teak layer AND the caulkings are extremely thin.
I'm afraid that the best way to preserve such platform is not something you should do now, but rather something that should have NEVER been done in the past - power washing it.
Judging by the pics, I suspect that if you sand the surface enough to make it smooth again, the result might be the detachment of some teak layers, particularly along the borders, and also the removal of some caulkings.
And re-caulking would be extremely difficult, again due to the lack of thickness.
Bottom line, I'd probably keep it as it is till it lasts.

PS: I must add that in spite of the pathetic quality of the teak sheets Cranchi uses, I enjoyed the Z34 a lot. One of the best boats in its category, imho.
 
Last edited:
Now it has been a year since I sanded it. I decided not to add oil or any thing like that. I live in southern California so pretty mild compared to the most. I simple clean it with mild boat soap and spray it off weekly. It has remained smooth and no abnormal wear since sanding. I just went to the yacht today as it is 80 degrees F today in March in Newport Beach. I like the idea of covering it, but in my case it just doesn't make sense to have a cover made. Since sanding over a year ago it looks great and stays smooth. During the summer months my kids swim in the ocean every weekend so it gets a good saltwater bath then.
 
i have the same bathing platform issues on my sunseeker. Spent yesterday cleaning it but the team is all ridged and had considered sanding it down. The orbital sander is a great idea, but how on earth do you get at the team close to the transom without damaging the fiber glass. How have you guys managed it please?
 
jondunman said:
i have the same bathing platform issues on my sunseeker. Spent yesterday cleaning it but the team is all ridged and had considered sanding it down. The orbital sander is a great idea, but how on earth do you get at the team close to the transom without damaging the fiber glass. How have you guys managed it please?
Click to expand...

Ideally, you need a pro circular orbital sander, and then a mouse sander to get in the awkward corners. You can also tape up the GRP with duct tape in high risk areas
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top