Synthetic rubbing strakes

M

mikeakc

Active Member
Joined
9 Mar 2021
Messages
65
Visit site
Hi there,
I'm looking for a timber effect product to replace the rubbing strakes on my Colvic Northerner. The existing plywood ones have had it. I'd need about 36m of approx 40x100mm section (although exact dimensions not critical, just aesthetic). It would need to bend to fit the curve of the hull. Does anyone know of anything apart from Wilks Traditional (I had a quote for the 100mm D fendering for £2600!).

It is to replace all the blue strakes in the photo.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
 

Attachments

  • Cover 3.jpeg
    Cover 3.jpeg
    117.4 KB · Views: 57
Here's the worst bit, which for this year I have just bodged with West Filler.
 

Attachments

  • Strakes rotten.jpeg
    Strakes rotten.jpeg
    50.7 KB · Views: 44
The fendering you are wanting at 100mm wide is massive. Looking at the Wilkes web site the best choice would be this section.
PVC 2379 - Pontoon Fendering - Marine
That works out at £1860 including VAT plus delivery. You may even try for a discount as you want so much.

Your other option would be to used multiple layers of a hardwood to ensure it was easy to bend to the hull shape and basically laminate it. I am surprised there is plywood in the existing fendering. You could also use a wood base with a rubber outer, but this would probably be more expensive than wood.

May be just best and cheapest to repair any existing sections rather than replace the lot.
 
Agree with Concerto. 6mm thick Iroko strips laminated with epoxy to replace the damaged bits. Not only is the rubber fendering that is available off the shelf expensive but will require removal of all the existing and then bolting through the hull.
 
Just remove it and plug the holes, it's only cosmetic(unless you're a canal boater, in which case it may earn its crust protecting the gelcoat). Fendering is for workboats and tugs.
 
Thanks @Concerto I should have mentioned I would like it to look like timber, rather than black which looks too industrial to my eye. Wilks also do a significantly cheaper 65mm track system which looks like it would be fitted with screws rather than bolting through. This would save me stripping out the cabin linings which would be a far bigger job!

BUMP! 65mm Traditional - Traditional Range - Marine

That should come in sub £600 which is far more reasonable. Has anyone used this product? My only query is whether or how it could be fitted to curve as the deck steps up just under he wheelhouse windows.

Any thoughts appreciated!
 
Tranona said:
Agree with Concerto. 6mm thick Iroko strips laminated with epoxy to replace the damaged bits. Not only is the rubber fendering that is available off the shelf expensive but will require removal of all the existing and then bolting through the hull.
Click to expand...
Could you take a look at the track system here by Wilks? Looks like the rail could be screwed rather than bolted. Whole solution under £600. Any thoughts?

BUMP! 65mm Traditional - Traditional Range - Marine
 
Definitely as concerto says, laminate strips of hardwood. I did this last year for new gunwhales on my dinghy. I do have a large outdoor work table so managed to roughly get the curvature correct, screwed blocks of wood to this shape then clamped the strips to the blocks using Gorrila glue - the foaming water proof type - cleaned up and screwed in position. Start at the stem and work towards the stern. Make over length to pull the wood together at the stern.
 
penfold said:
Just remove it and plug the holes, it's only cosmetic(unless you're a canal boater, in which case it may earn its crust protecting the gelcoat). Fendering is for workboats and tugs.
Click to expand...

This is the route I'd probably go - on the presumption it's just for looks, remove all scrappy wood and replace with vinyl stripes or paint.
 
scruff said:
This is the route I'd probably go - on the presumption it's just for looks, remove all scrappy wood and replace with vinyl stripes or paint.
Click to expand...
I know I'm being sentimental but I can't quite bring myself to paint them on. We also raft up fairly frequently with mates so a bumper is handy! I'm erring towards the Wilks BUMP! product (65mm on track which i would screw on). Got some samples on the way. I'll report back! Cheers, Mike
 
PetiteFleur said:
Definitely as concerto says, laminate strips of hardwood. I did this last year for new gunwhales on my dinghy. I do have a large outdoor work table so managed to roughly get the curvature correct, screwed blocks of wood to this shape then clamped the strips to the blocks using Gorrila glue - the foaming water proof type - cleaned up and screwed in position. Start at the stem and work towards the stern. Make over length to pull the wood together at the stern.
Click to expand...
So you don't bolt through? Just screws are enough to hold against the memory of the timber?
 
Your choice is to either laminate in a jig as suggested and then bolt through, or use what you currently have and laminate 6mm strips to replace the damaged sections. Personally I would do the latter, assuming that there is sound timber attached to the hull. Use epoxy and screws to hold your laminations in place while it cures. You can then remove the screws and plug the holes before you put the next lamination on. If you then epoxy the exposed end grain on the sound ply and paint it should stand up to weather and abuse pretty well.

Perhaps you really need to take the damaged and rotten bits off first to see how much sound timber there is left that you can laminate new timber to.
 
I thought some might appreciate an update on this project two years after my first post! I finally got round to refinishing the topsides of our Colvic, and opted for the Wilks traditional range rubbing rail in teak (code TRR65 if anyone's interested).
They're flexible enough to bend on without much force and can be plugged just like timber making the fixing holes almost invisible. I put a radius on with a router to soften them and, as per the guidance I put a 'grain' on them with a wire brush and 60 grit paper rubbing lengthwise. I'm pleased with the end result, you'd think it was actual timber unless you start digging your nail in to examine closely and importantly I'll never have to do it again! Cheers. Nell.jpegStrakes.jpeg
 
Nice.

I am about to have my rubbing strake replaced on my SR25 ..... having tried the cut and splice in repair pieces ... which basically only lasted a year - due to the strake was rotten under for most of its length.

Its a shame that such as your 'synthetic' is not available here ... so I am having to accept wood again ... and I think its not going to be cheap !
 
Refueler said:
Nice.

I am about to have my rubbing strake replaced on my SR25 ..... having tried the cut and splice in repair pieces ... which basically only lasted a year - due to the strake was rotten under for most of its length.

Its a shame that such as your 'synthetic' is not available here ... so I am having to accept wood again ... and I think its not going to be cheap !
Click to expand...
Search for the product name ‘Flexiteek’ - it’ll be the same importers and I think it’s a fairly global product so it might be possible to source it or get it put on a shipment. Good luck!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top