Swing mooring advice sought

[forestcreature]

My 18' is on a half-tide swing mooring in Emsworth. It is secured to a mooring buoy by a length of chain with a swivel at the buoy end, and I've removed the mast for now. At some point (I think during the winter) something happened that bent one of the upright flukes of the bow chain roller flush to the deck, and the chain has been clattering around causing more damage since then. While I try to get to grips with all of the work, and now extra repairs, that need doing to get this lovely boat underway, I would like to improve its situation on the swing mooring and give it a fighting chance through next winter.

After reading the Conservancy's very pragmatic leaflet about swing moorings, I am considering shortening the chain, and/or adding a shorter mooring warp with/without some kind of snubber and the chain as backup. I would also try some sort of drogue to help keep it oriented sensibly. I am open to any advice or experience that anybody could share on this, and also any theories as to how the plate on the chain roller could have been bent so badly! That itself might be informative as to what is going on when I'm not there.

 

[MonniotC]

I had a half-tide swinging mooring in Emsworth Harbour for years, on and off. When the wind's in the south, you can get quite a swell running up Emsworth Reach that sets boats jerking and snatching at their mooring chains. In a serious southerly blow, boats can be damaged just as you describe. I had the original fitting (cast ally) bow-roller on my Achilles 24 break up completely. I then moved to a 3/4 tide (nearly full-tide actually) conservancy mooring in Church Rythe, which is round the corner near the Hayling Island bridge. Completely protected there. You can get on and off the mooring anytime other than low water springs (my triple-keeled Achilles is 3 foot draft). Only a few quid more.

 

[forestcreature]

Thank you, that's oddly comforting!

 

[Kelpie]

The snatch loads of a mooring can be very high if it is all chain. It's a very good idea to have a rope, with chafe protection, and keep the chain as a slack backup.

 

[Dipper]

I wonder if your boat ended up sideways on to a strong wind as a result of wind and tide acting in different directions? This would put a sideways load onto the roller cheeks.

 

[forestcreature]

I wonder if your boat ended up sideways on to a strong wind as a result of wind and tide acting in different directions? This would put a sideways load onto the roller cheeks.

I wondered too, and that scenario is why the Chichester leaflet that I read suggests trying a drogue (...bucket!).

Kelpie: agreed! I'll start doing that

I have had the mooring chain too long, too, which I'm finding out doesn't help swinging circle or snatch behaviour.

 

[William_H]

Many small boats have a fitting half way down the bow intended to be used to winch the boat onto a trailer. Mine has one and I find it an excellent place to attach the primary swing mooring rope. There is nothing to chafe on. However a word of warning some U bolts with a turned down area for the attachment nuts are not as robust as the 10mm thick U loop might indicate. Mine failed from side loads. I now have a U saddle bolted on with 10mm bolts. No problem for the subsequent 20 years. You need of course a back up rope tether which I attach to a mooring cleat on deck. This is used as the last and first connection when departing and returning. As has been said rope can give much less snatch shock loads. ol'will

 

[VicS]

I wondered too, and that scenario is why the Chichester leaflet that I read suggests trying a drogue (...bucket!).

Kelpie: agreed! I'll start doing that

I have had the mooring chain too long, too, which I'm finding out doesn't help swinging circle or snatch behaviour.

I have always ( since 1978) moored on an all chain C3 mooring in Chichester without problems.

I don't in fact have a big floating buoy, as is normal, just chain and a pick up buoy. About 12 feet of very heavy chain attached to the sinker, then the "riser"and pick up buoy on a long enough rope for the chain to always sink to the bottom when unoccupied

My boat does tend to "pirouette" because I remove the rudder. It has been suggested that I should use a bucket with the bottom cut out as a drogue .... but I have never got round to doing that. If the rudder was left on and the tiller securely lashed it would not be necessary.

I always lash the chain to the stem-head roller having seen the damage that can be caused if it jumps off

 

[sailaboutvic]

The snatch loads of a mooring can be very high if it is all chain. It's a very good idea to have a rope, with chafe protection, and keep the chain as a slack backup.

I would take this route only different I would make up 2 snubber 1/2 nylon rope that will give a bit should be fine for your boat and attract to both cleats on the bow , use a pipe over the rope where it rub on the boat
As suggested leave the chain as a back up .
Unless you don't have any other option I would never have the rope through the bow roller .
You could also get a large dia plastic pipe sliced long ways and put that over the chain to stop damaging your top side if it rubs .

 

[neil_s]

I guess you have a Chi Harbour Conservancy mooring - why not talk to them, they might find you an alternative in a more sheltered spot? I know the moorings are rated to stand the load, but it would be kinder to your boat to find a nice boatyard for the winter. The insurance company would charge you less, too!

 

[lw395]

I have always ( since 1978) moored on an all chain C3 mooring in Chichester without problems.

I don't in fact have a big floating buoy, as is normal, just chain and a pick up buoy. About 12 feet of very heavy chain attached to the sinker, then the "riser"and pick up buoy on a long enough rope for the chain to always sink to the bottom when unoccupied

My boat does tend to "pirouette" because I remove the rudder. It has been suggested that I should use a bucket with the bottom cut out as a drogue .... but I have never got round to doing that. If the rudder was left on and the tiller securely lashed it would not be necessary.

I always lash the chain to the stem-head roller having seen the damage that can be caused if it jumps off

That all makes sense.
It's often the motion between the boat and the buoy that causes snatching and shock loads.
I found hauling the buoy uo tight to the bow was my best option. Which is a lot like not having the buoy, just having the riser hanging on the bow.

You have to do what works where you are. If it's jerky, change it.
Having the boat 'pirouette' probably does no harm in itself, but it's not helpful when boarding from a tender.

 

[forestcreature]

[...]Chi Harbour Conservancy mooring - why not talk to them, they might find you an alternative in a more sheltered spot?

Good idea! In my case another but more sheltered el cheapo mooring might take a little of the heat off (can't afford to be out of the water).

All the advice I have received and found suggests that a lot could be improved in how the boat is actually moored. And I see the workmen smashing up next doors' house have chucked an old bucket in the skip. The stars align &c.

 

[Seajet]

My boat is on a half tide mooring near Emsworth, and has been for 40 summers; all that time I have only ever used all chain; the topchain and swivel of which which I keep a close eye on and replace every 3 seasons.

A ' backup rope or chain ' has too much chance of tangling and tightening the mooring like a Spanish windlass, especially if one is kept away from the boat for a while for any reason.

The chain is secured into the stemhead fitting by a stainless drop-nose pin, and I suggest one of those - if there's space to drill and fit one above the chain - would prevent this happening again, if not then consider changing to such a stem fitting before bothering to repair the present one.

If one gets the length and weight of topchain right there shouldn't be much snatching in anything but really severe conditions - though your mooring may be more exposed than mine and Church Rithe is not a bad idea if you have suitable tender and car parking.

Or consider Langstone SC ( I'm on the Chichester side ) - you might be very pleasantly surprised by the facilities and prices, PM me if interested.

Stemhead fittings do not require an actual roller though that term is often used for the whole fitting - new ones are available, it's a case of finding one to fit your boat.

Drop nose pins ( which need to be on a thin lanyard as dropping them is a pain ) of various sizes are easily available from good chandlers like Force 4 or online

How is your insurance about staying on a swinging mooring all winter ? Most don't like it.

 

[forestcreature]

Must be that my chain was too long, because I was always impressed by how much the boat crashed around in even a minor swell.

I know about the drop nose pin. There was a pin in situ, and I don't know what happened to it! Before the plate got bent I had to add a lashing where the pin would have been, which failed at some point.

Sending PM...

Not sure what my insurance 'thinks'! I am fairly sure I have third party only and even then it's more than the boat cost.

 

[VicS]

Must be that my chain was too long, because I was always impressed by how much the boat crashed around in even a minor swell.

I know about the drop nose pin. There was a pin in situ, and I don't know what happened to it! Before the plate got bent I had to add a lashing where the pin would have been, which failed at some point.
.

The advice from Chichester harbour is to keep the length of the top chain to a minimum, for several reasons including limiting the snatch on the deck fittings

http://www.conservancy.co.uk/assets...de_to_Using_a_Swinging_Mooring-q5HVXv86Yz.pdf


You do not say if this is your own private mooring , a boatyard or club maintained mooring or a Conservancy mooring. If it is your own or possibly a club mooring your are free to alter it but if a Conservancy or yard maintained mooring you are probably not free to alter it .

If appropriate consider what the Conservancy refer to as "Option 2" in their leaflet on laying a drying mooring http://www.conservancy.co.uk/assets...ide_to_Laying_a_Drying_Mooring-jobYKQ6sgX.pdf

 

[Channel Sailor]

In my swinging mooring I use: a short length of snubber in parallel with the top chain, a strengthened bow roller fitting because the original was not designed for the stresses for a swinging mooring and while it was off took the opportunity to strengthen the GRP bow roller mounting area underneath as well (which was rather lightly constructed). Unfortunately I don't have a pin to trap the chain onto the roller so I have to use a rope to tie it down, and keep and eye on it as the rope wears. This last part I think is very important because chains can jump off the roller and damage the surrounding GRP. I find that when well loaded having the chain (with snubber) at no less than 45 degrees if possible from the vertical appears to reduce the downwards stress when the bow "skys" over steep chop or wash. My mooring has a large buoy. I vaguely recall years ago having a mooring without a large buoy which as others have mentioned has its merits.

 

[sniffyjenkins]

The snatch loads of a mooring can be very high if it is all chain. It's a very good idea to have a rope, with chafe protection, and keep the chain as a slack backup.

A big YES from me to Kelpie's suggestion.

We're on a deep-water mooring in Chi harbour and have a stout rope with big rubber snubber as the main attachment and the chain slack as the backup, so the effect is much like a be-snubbered anchor chain. We also added thick transparent hose over the entire chain to stop it rubbing the hull in certain situations. This setup works brilliantly for us. I always wince when I see boats near us snatching and bucking on their chains when the fishing boats go zooming by eek.