Suzuki DF2.5 Float Full of a Liquid

[DOILY]

My carburettor is constantly flooding as if the float operated needle valve is not closing. On dismantling I see that the plastic float is almost full of a clear liquid (petrol?). But I can't find any leaks.
Is it normal for the float to have liquid inside?
TIA

 

[Poecheng]

No, it should be full of air only. Often, when they leak, it is not possible to see the source of the leak. New float I suggest

 

[DOILY]

Thank you Poecheng. All Agents are telling me there is nil stock in UK for a float. 4 to 6 weeks delivery from Japan. Crazy.

Can anyone recommend any repair techniques please?

TIA again.

 

[thinwater]

My carburettor is constantly flooding as if the float operated needle valve is not closing. On dismantling I see that the plastic float is almost full of a clear liquid (petrol?). But I can't find any leaks.
Is it normal for the float to have liquid inside?
TIA

Obviously it should be MT. Probably the correct troubleshoot. But this is not unheard; a car of mine did that in the 70s, when I was a teenage shade tree mechanic.

 

[Poecheng]

Complete s/h carb here if you cannot wait : Suzuki DF 2.5 hp outboard Carburettor C/W Air Box | eBay

 

[Poecheng]

Thank you Poecheng. All Agents are telling me there is nil stock in UK for a float. 4 to 6 weeks delivery from Japan. Crazy.

Can anyone recommend any repair techniques please?

TIA again.

I am going to make this up now but......
If you put it in hot water, will the expanded air in the float not have to escape through the leak allowing you to identify where it is.
Then get rid of the petrol within and a hot knife or similar to seal the leak ?

 

[DOILY]

Thank you for your helpful ideas.

Update : Using a variation on the NDT dye penetrant technique (wife's talc) I've found a tiny hairline "crack", about 4mm long causing the leak.

My plan now is to drill 2 small holes, drain the fuel and then seal the holes and the crack with Araldite to get me to my mooring and back; and also order a new float as a permanent fix.

Just another question : Has this been caused by the nasties in E10??

 

[Snowgoose-1]

Thank you for your helpful ideas.

Update : Using a variation on the NDT dye penetrant technique (wife's talc) I've found a tiny hairline "crack", about 4mm long causing the leak.

My plan now is to drill 2 small holes, drain the fuel and then seal the holes and the crack with Araldite to get me to my mooring and back; and also order a new float as a permanent fix.

Just another question : Has this been caused by the nasties in E10??

Just a thought. I have great success with Chemical Metal in the past. Is Araldyte OK with petrol ?

 

[penberth3]

Thank you for your helpful ideas.

Update : Using a variation on the NDT dye penetrant technique (wife's talc) I've found a tiny hairline "crack", about 4mm long causing the leak.

My plan now is to drill 2 small holes, drain the fuel and then seal the holes and the crack with Araldite to get me to my mooring and back; and also order a new float as a permanent fix.

Just another question : Has this been caused by the nasties in E10??

That's the best idea, but old plastic that been swimming in petrol won't be easy to weld or glue.

I wouldn't blame E10, I'll guess age is the problem.

 

[penberth3]

Just a thought. I have great success with Chemical Metal in the past. Is Araldyte OK with petrol ?

Do check for yourself, but ISTR Epoxy is OK with petrol, Polyester resin isn't? I have successfully patched steel tanks with Araldite.

 

[rotrax]

I have repaired many plastic floats. To clear the petrol place in a pan of boiling water. Keep it boilingand you will see the gas escaping from the defective place. Soap, moulded from a bar and pressed over the surface will make a temporary seal-got me through 400 miles of a Classic trial once when the GRP fuel tank split. A good epoxy will work ok, Araldite has worked for me.

Good Luck.

 

[DOILY]

That's the best idea, but old plastic that been swimming in petrol won't be easy to weld or glue.

I wouldn't blame E10, I'll guess age is the problem.

Further update : Araldite did not stick to the plastic float off my only 4 year old engine. I thought I had removed all traces of petrol and also roughed up the surface.
Now off to see what Halfords/Screwfix/ Toolstation can offer.
Any recommendations would be very welcome.
Thank you again.

 

[VicS]

Further update : Araldite did not stick to the plastic float off my only 4 year old engine. I thought I had removed all traces of petrol and also roughed up the surface.
Now off to see what Halfords/Screwfix/ Toolstation can offer.
Any recommendations would be very welcome.
Thank you again.

New float. .... part number 13250-97J00
.

 

[DOILY]

After researching glues I'm taking VicS's advice. I've found an OMC Johnson Evinrude "equivalent" p/n (5037232) that's ex stock in UK for a fraction of the price of the Suzuki part.

 

[penberth3]

Further update : Araldite did not stick to the plastic float off my only 4 year old engine. I thought I had removed all traces of petrol and also roughed up the surface.
Now off to see what Halfords/Screwfix/ Toolstation can offer.
Any recommendations would be very welcome.
Thank you again.

Next, I'd try "welding" with an old soldering iron, or a new soldering iron with an old tip or a bit of 3" nail. You did say this was a temporary fix, didn't you?

 

[Steve65]

Dip the float in POR 15. Its used for sealing porous fuel fanks, so will work on the float fine