mu2bdriver
New member
Thank you Martin.
Suzuki DF 2.5 won't keep running
- Thread starter Yngmar
- Start date
Thank you Martin.
BelleSerene
Active member
Richard - you have persuaded me. Would you recommend the tiny red inline one pictured here, or the longer one which presumably has a larger filter area but might be a tight fit?
Also, do you fit an external tap to your fuel drain line, or use the carb's internal drain screw which requires a screwdriver to do the job?
Finally, do you decant the carb's fuel back into your jerrycan knowing that you feed the tank through a water separator and have that fuel filter fitted anyway, or do you dispose of it?
RichardS
N/A
You need the smallest filter. This is the one I bought second time: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141628932479?ViewItem=&item=141628932479
The total length is about 2 inches from tip to tip. The first ones I bought were over 3 inches (50mm I think) overall length but I had to buy a short length of fuel hose (I think it was 6mm ID) to try and fit the larger filter between the front edge of the casing and the engine, sort of underneath the carb, but I wasn't happy because it was rather jammed in. Once I bought the smaller filter that fits easily into the place where the larger filter was.
You could probably fit the smaller one into the fuel line that already runs between the fuel tap and the carb but I wouldn't because it will be extremely fiddly and equally difficult to change. I would buy a length of fuel hose and install it where I did. You can also easily adjust the angle of the filter so that all air is driven upwards and out.
You can then put a couple of inches of spare fuel hose onto the drain spigot and lead it so it protrudes outside the bottom of the power head by a cm or two which makes it easy to run the fuel into a small bottle or whatever. To be honest, you only get 50 mls or something out of the carb + hose + filter so I've just been collecting it the same a small bottle for the last few years and using it for cleaning mechanical parts etc. I might filter it back into my jerry can one day if the bottle gets full.
The first time you unscrew the drain screw, take it out completely and catch the little spring, then grease it properly and screw it back in with the spring and just nip it up. It tends to seize up in a couple of years but if you remove and re-grease every couple of years that keeps it turning smoothly.
I should add that when I've finished using the engine I close the fuel tap and just invert the entire engine for a couple of seconds and tip whatever's left in the tank into a funnel and straight back into the jerry can so all I have to drain out is the fuel line, filter and carb, with the tap open again, of course. That's the advantage of such a light engine.
Richard
The total length is about 2 inches from tip to tip. The first ones I bought were over 3 inches (50mm I think) overall length but I had to buy a short length of fuel hose (I think it was 6mm ID) to try and fit the larger filter between the front edge of the casing and the engine, sort of underneath the carb, but I wasn't happy because it was rather jammed in. Once I bought the smaller filter that fits easily into the place where the larger filter was.
You could probably fit the smaller one into the fuel line that already runs between the fuel tap and the carb but I wouldn't because it will be extremely fiddly and equally difficult to change. I would buy a length of fuel hose and install it where I did. You can also easily adjust the angle of the filter so that all air is driven upwards and out.
You can then put a couple of inches of spare fuel hose onto the drain spigot and lead it so it protrudes outside the bottom of the power head by a cm or two which makes it easy to run the fuel into a small bottle or whatever. To be honest, you only get 50 mls or something out of the carb + hose + filter so I've just been collecting it the same a small bottle for the last few years and using it for cleaning mechanical parts etc. I might filter it back into my jerry can one day if the bottle gets full.
The first time you unscrew the drain screw, take it out completely and catch the little spring, then grease it properly and screw it back in with the spring and just nip it up. It tends to seize up in a couple of years but if you remove and re-grease every couple of years that keeps it turning smoothly.
I should add that when I've finished using the engine I close the fuel tap and just invert the entire engine for a couple of seconds and tip whatever's left in the tank into a funnel and straight back into the jerry can so all I have to drain out is the fuel line, filter and carb, with the tap open again, of course. That's the advantage of such a light engine.
Richard
Last edited:
BelleSerene
Active member
Thanks Richard... going for it.
Molteni
Member
Has anyone found a supplier of the correct fuel filter for the suzuki df 2.5 (2008 model) ? It's a very small unit which fits on the end of the fuel tap then inside the nozzle on the outlet of the plastic tank.
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
Rocksteadee
Active member
That filter is a bit too coarse. Left that where it was and fitted a small (shown in earlier posts) in the pipework
spower
New member
Hello friends, in the video you will see how I optimize the carburetor of a Suzuki df 2.5 hp outboard engine, for which I have ordered one size larger jets.
As the colleague described. I've filmed everything on the shift and setup.
You can see the video here: 
In the description of the video I have written the numbers of the new jugglers.
An important moment is the removal of the metal cap of the carburetor and the adjustment of the hidden mixing screw under it.
My idea is with these Walbro carburetor adjustments is to optimize the performance of the engine throughout the rev range.As we know due to restrictions and reaching Euro 1, this engine has small jets that are often clogged by the ethanol in the gasoline. With this setup with the new jigs I hope that can be avoided.
If you have any questions, ask them in the comments below the video and I will answer you as soon as possible!
Thanks for your time and stay healthy!
SaltIre
Well-known member
Hello friends, in the video you will see how I optimize the carburetor of a Suzuki df 2.5 hp outboard engine, for which I have ordered one size larger jets.
As the colleague described. I've filmed everything on the shift and setup.
As we know due to restrictions and reaching Euro 1, this engine has small jets that are often clogged by the ethanol in the gasoline. With this setup with the new jigs I hope that can be avoided.
Are you able to answer questions here? Hope you too stay healthy!spower
New member
Yes
Rocksteadee
Active member
Problem I found was the fixed jet in the casting adjacent to the closed throttle butterfly. Difficult to clean due to the blind bend
Neil
Well-known member
It's thread like these that make you realise how poor the quality of the petrol. My Suzuki 2.5 was a great starter until it wasn't. It had been unused for a while and when I opened the carb drain, brown treacle dripped out. Opened the fuel cock and more brown stuff came out. Flushed through with fresh fuel and I was back in business. I now drain both the carb and the tank if I don't expect to use it for a while.
harvey38
Well-known member
Sadly, I now have to use Aspen to keep mine from clogging, poor running and stalling at low speed. Expensive but stops the above so money well spent, not sure it will stop it dropping another push rod though :-(