Suzuki 2.2 outboard problems......

[PetiteFleur]

I've acquired a non-running Suzuki 2.2 outboard. It has a spark & plenty of compression. I've cleaned out the carb twice, cleaned the fuel tank and used fresh fuel. On the bench it seems to start easily but when put it in the water butt it refuses to start. Taken out it then starts on the bench, put it back in the butt and it won't start. The water is about 4" above the cavitation plate. I've completely stripped the carb, sprayed with carb cleaner and reassembled.
The only thing I'm not sure about - which adjustment screw is mixture and which is slow running? And how much should each be screwed out to gaet running?

 

[Lakesailor]

Normally on small engines like this you screw the mixture screw right in and the undo it 1 1/2 turns to get a basic running setting.

Have you run it on the bench without the leg in water or muffs on? The impellor could well be jerked, although that won't affect the starting.

Try raising the leg so the plate is just under the water although I wouldn't expect 4" to create much backpressure.

 

[tross]

If it starts out of the water but not in, it sounds like too much back pressure in the exhaust system. Two thoughts, check the leg for obstructions ( and the outlet ) or the exhaust port is choked up.

 

[VicS]

If you told us the year or at least the code markings maybe we could find a diagram of the carb and identify the adjustment screws.

As LS says it is usual to gently seat them and then open by some specified amount to get it going. The idle mixture is finely adjusted by screwing it in a bit at a time at the slowest possible speed until it hesitates or shows some signs of being weak. Then back out again to find the best spot.

If it has a high speed adjustment then the same procedure but it has to be done at WOT either out on the water ... difficult.. or with a test wheel fitted.

Also as LS says if you have run it dry then you have wrecked the water pump impeller if not the whole pump. Water pump overhaul next job!

 

[PetiteFleur]

If you told us the year or at least the code markings maybe we could find a diagram of the carb and identify the adjustment screws.

As LS says it is usual to gently seat them and then open by some specified amount to get it going. The idle mixture is finely adjusted by screwing it in a bit at a time at the slowest possible speed until it hesitates or shows some signs of being weak. Then back out again to find the best spot.

If it has a high speed adjustment then the same procedure but it has to be done at WOT either out on the water ... difficult.. or with a test wheel fitted.

Also as LS says if you have run it dry then you have wrecked the water pump impeller if not the whole pump. Water pump overhaul next job!

It is a DT2 with a date of 1995 - I only ran it for 5/6 secs max before stopping and putting in the water, so hopefully no damage to the impellor. One other point I've remembered is that when it did ran it was on choke. I'll try again in the morning with only the plate immersed.

 

[VicS]

Hopefully you'll find a diagram of the carb at http://store.brownspoint.com/DT2/fig005-28697.asp

The water pump is behind the prop so fairly easy to ensure that it is immersed.

Actually with a fixed drive to its a good idea to take the prop off when running in a small tub of water. Don't lose the drive pin though!

 

[Dipper]

I've got a very lightly used 1998 Suzuki 2.2. I had a lot of problems with it starting and then cutting out after about one minute and refusing to restart again. After cleaning the carburrettor and tank and checking the nearly new spark plug I took it to a dealer who could find nothing wrong. The next season it did the same again and I took it to a different dealer. They fitted a new spark plug and its been perfect ever since. Apparently spark plug problems are quite common with these small two strokes. So first thing to do is fit a brand new spark plug.

The choke setting is quite sensitive and sometimes I need it for only a few seconds before turning the switch back to normal running so try with and without the choke.

The owners manual doesn't give the mixture and idle screw settings. My idle screw is accessible through a hole in the casing and is just above the carburettor float chamber. It is about one third of a turn out (anticlockwise) at the moment. If you get stuck after trying a new plug I could remove my cover and see what my mixture screw is set to.

Another problem may be old fuel as two stroke fuel degrades very quickly once mixed although my engine started second pull this season using one year old fuel.

Failing to start in water may be a red herring. There again it may not!

 

[PetiteFleur]

Update on my Suzuki 2.2 problems

Well, I've done everything suggested - many thanks everyone - it now appears to be running well. I reduced the water level, removed the prop, cleaned out the carb again(I suspect this was the problem), checked the impellor(it was fine). Started fine on the bench, put in water and again started fine, adjusted the slow running and mixture and it now starts and revs up fine. Refitted the prop and refilled the water butt and it still starts well and revs up easily. As suggested the choke only required for a few seconds.
I've ordered a new plug, just need to get new shear pin(had to cut off the old one as it was bent)and a new bearing and seal for the gearbox before trying seriously on the water. The only small problem is that it does seem to idle too fast - the spring in the carb was badly twisted, maybe this is the problem and I will renew this as well.
Many thanks everyone.

 

[ianat182]

You may already have checked but there is a spare shear pin and a split pin in the small flap beneath the cover, if not it may pay to buy two of each so the spares are handy in the clip.

You obviously found the idle screw,which the users handbook quotes warm up the engine for 5 minutes,turn clockwise to increase idle speed and counterclockwise to reduce idle speed.
Have you checked the water spurts out of the two holes at the back of the engine,it may take a little while before it does and is only spurts; clear these holes with a nail or wire occasionally,as they do get clogged, also check the intake for weed and plastic, there's a lot of it about.
The mixture can be either 100:1 or 50:1 according to the book, but some people reckon the 50:1 gives better lubrication and running.
Be wary of laying the engine on its side, I've twice found that the float in the carburettor has become stuck and allowed petrol to spill out when tilted on the transom even with the fuel turned off, - the last time being yesterday!

ianat182

 

[LadyInBed]

This sounds a really strange problem.
It runs out of water so plug, points and fuel are ok but level of compression is unknown.
Wont start in water suggests something is being shorted more than anything to do with water pressure. The impeller pushes water up a pipe in the shaft then around the block and head. Worst case scenario is that water is getting into the cylinder and quenching the spark.
If you start it out of water then whilst running lower it into water, does it stop dead or cough, splutter and die?
I would take the head off and check the water way for corrosion.
I took my 22 year old DT2 head off last year and there was some corrosion around the waterway but I could deal with it.

 

[Rogzes]

2.2

I've acquired a non-running Suzuki 2.2 outboard. It has a spark & plenty of compression. I've cleaned out the carb twice, cleaned the fuel tank and used fresh fuel. On the bench it seems to start easily but when put it in the water butt it refuses to start. Taken out it then starts on the bench, put it back in the butt and it won't start. The water is about 4" above the cavitation plate. I've completely stripped the carb, sprayed with carb cleaner and reassembled.
The only thing I'm not sure about - which adjustment screw is mixture and which is slow running? And how much should each be screwed out to gaet running?

Check the head gasket, motor will run out the water, once motor is the water and cuts out, the water is getting into the piston via the head gasket, alos check the gasket at the top of the shaft, that also cab leak water into the piston. hope that helps.