Assassin
Well-Known Member
It has been on the cards for a while, but today we modified my mates sumps as he is fed up with old oil being left in the sump by pumping it out through the dipstick hole, and was concerned that in time it could build up sludge.
Both sumps arrived and he had marked them both, he had taken pictures and even taken measurements, bless him.
Bracing was made for the sumps by plasma cutting some 12mm plate and drilling it, and cutting a nice hole in it to work through, the sump was bolted to the plate and it was marked out so the pipe was at the lowest point of the sump so it would pick up any debris and after checking his electric pump and finding it was 1/2" BSP, this was the pipe we selected and a piece was bent at one end and a pilot dole was drilled into the sump and the sump was put under the press and a dimpling tool was used to press a dimple into the sump. This pilot hole was used to guide a holesaw and a hole was cut to pass the pipe through, this was put into its location and the pipe was marked inside the sump so it could be cut to length and was cut off, it was then marked and cut to length on the run under the sump and threaded 1/2" BSP and was TIG welded on the outside of the sump and finished with a die grinder inside the sump and TIG welded on the inside of the sump and fettled with the die grinder again to ensure the drained oil had a free flow into the pipe.
To support the outer end of the pipe a bracket was made using some box section which was cut to length and then slit lengthways to give two "U" brackets, they were drilled and a nut was TIG welded on the inside to give a captive nut and this was welded to the side of the sump, a 1/2" BSP valve was screwed onto the pipe, another bracket was made and aligned with the hexagonal section of the valve to prevent it from turning through engine vibrations and was marked for drilling so it could be bolted to the new sump mounting bracket.
The new valve was coated with thread lock and screwed onto the newly welded pipe and the new bracket was installed to check the alignment and the valve was operated to ensure it wasn't binding anywhere, and finally the new bracket was drilled along with the valve handle using a cordless drill so locking wire could be inserted to hold the valve closed and prevent it from opening through engine vibrations.
With everything aligned a short piece of 1/2" pipe was cut and threaded either end and thread lock was applied to one end and fitted into the valve while the other end has PTFE tape applied to the threads and a 1/2" BSP blanking cap was fitted, once everything had cooled it was released from its plate and painted, the second sump was done to the opposite hand.
Draining his sump will now be much easier, he can remove the blanking cap, screw his drain pump pipe to the 1/2" drain pie; snip his locking wire and open the valve and let his pump now such everything from his sumps.
Both sumps arrived and he had marked them both, he had taken pictures and even taken measurements, bless him.
Bracing was made for the sumps by plasma cutting some 12mm plate and drilling it, and cutting a nice hole in it to work through, the sump was bolted to the plate and it was marked out so the pipe was at the lowest point of the sump so it would pick up any debris and after checking his electric pump and finding it was 1/2" BSP, this was the pipe we selected and a piece was bent at one end and a pilot dole was drilled into the sump and the sump was put under the press and a dimpling tool was used to press a dimple into the sump. This pilot hole was used to guide a holesaw and a hole was cut to pass the pipe through, this was put into its location and the pipe was marked inside the sump so it could be cut to length and was cut off, it was then marked and cut to length on the run under the sump and threaded 1/2" BSP and was TIG welded on the outside of the sump and finished with a die grinder inside the sump and TIG welded on the inside of the sump and fettled with the die grinder again to ensure the drained oil had a free flow into the pipe.
To support the outer end of the pipe a bracket was made using some box section which was cut to length and then slit lengthways to give two "U" brackets, they were drilled and a nut was TIG welded on the inside to give a captive nut and this was welded to the side of the sump, a 1/2" BSP valve was screwed onto the pipe, another bracket was made and aligned with the hexagonal section of the valve to prevent it from turning through engine vibrations and was marked for drilling so it could be bolted to the new sump mounting bracket.
The new valve was coated with thread lock and screwed onto the newly welded pipe and the new bracket was installed to check the alignment and the valve was operated to ensure it wasn't binding anywhere, and finally the new bracket was drilled along with the valve handle using a cordless drill so locking wire could be inserted to hold the valve closed and prevent it from opening through engine vibrations.
With everything aligned a short piece of 1/2" pipe was cut and threaded either end and thread lock was applied to one end and fitted into the valve while the other end has PTFE tape applied to the threads and a 1/2" BSP blanking cap was fitted, once everything had cooled it was released from its plate and painted, the second sump was done to the opposite hand.
Draining his sump will now be much easier, he can remove the blanking cap, screw his drain pump pipe to the 1/2" drain pie; snip his locking wire and open the valve and let his pump now such everything from his sumps.
