Suggestions for replacement of Simpson Lawrence Seawolf windlass?

[Toutvabien]

Our elderly Seawolf windlass is reaching the end of its life and we are looking at replacing it with something newer and slightly more powerful. I have been perusing the specs of various windlasses but have not come up with one that will fit in the space in the forward locker in the foredeck where the windlass lives. It is set up with the 10mm DIN chain gypsy on the port side and the warping drum on starboard.

I don't want to engage in major surgery if it can be avoided so I am interested to discover if anybody else has successfully found a new windlass that roughly fits the footprint of the SL Seawolf? I am going to SIBS next week so can investigate the details of a replacement there but any suggestions or pointers in the right direction would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,

Paul

 

[Tranona]

Don't know of any current windlass that has the gypsy on the left. The smaller style of windlasses such as the Lewmar and Quick do not have warping drums, but the Lofrans do, but inevitably physically larger. Worth looking at Lofrans if you have the space.

 

[skipmac]

Hi Paul,

I have a SL Seawolf that's original to my 30 year old boat that seems to be good as new after a relatively minor overhaul. It only needed new bearings on the main shaft that holds the drum and gypsy but while I was at it I lubed it and repainted the case.

It had plenty of power for my 20 Kg Rocna. Just upgraded to a 30 Kg Mantus but have only hoisted that anchor three times but so far so good. If you need parts I assume you know about John at http://slspares.co.uk/ ? Very helpful with old SL gear.

If you need more power I read a comment somewhere by a Seawolf owner that bought a non SL motor that he was able to fit with some minor modification.

 

[neil1967]

You could look at the Quick range of windlass'. Some have the motor behind the gypsy which means the gypsy sits more centrally, and therefore might fit better. Two - the ultra genius and the Hector can be fitted with the rope drum and the gypsy on the same (right hand) side, which might allow you to offset the windlass to port better. I've not used a quick windlass, so can't vouch for them, but physically they might just fit the bill.

 

[Neeves]

I'll ask a stupid question as this is the second time the query has been raised.

Why do you want a separate drum to the gypsy?

Most new windlass have a gypsy that take chain and rope so why limit choice by the requirement to have 2 separate devices.

I can see the need for the drum if you use it to raise the main, have 2 bow rollers (and 2 anchors, one on each) - one being chain and the other rope.

Just curious

Jonathan

 

[Toutvabien]

We do have two bow rollers, the main anchor is currently set on the port roller and when we need a second anchor it is usually set on warp and chain using the starboard roller, in which case we use the warping drum. We could probably cope without the drum, but I would certainly prefer to keep the gypsy on the port side if possible as that is how it is set up at present.

We could swap, but it would involve relocating the run of the chain access from the anchor locker to the chain locker.

The Quick windlass looks a possible as does the the Lofrans X2.

 

[Tucepi]

We do have two bow rollers, the main anchor is currently set on the port roller and when we need a second anchor it is usually set on warp and chain using the starboard roller, in which case we use the warping drum. We could probably cope without the drum, but I would certainly prefer to keep the gypsy on the port side if possible as that is how it is set up at present.

We could swap, but it would involve relocating the run of the chain access from the anchor locker to the chain locker.

The Quick windlass looks a possible as does the the Lofrans X2.

I have the Quick hector 1000w and been happy with performance and just changed the 8mm gypsy to a 10mm. The gypsy does accommodate chain and warp. Any questions I had were directed to Quick in Italy who replied quite quickly but best were Bainbridge in UK. They provided great assistance and could not have been more helpful so worth discussing your requirements with them especially if you see them at Southampton boat show.

 

[Neeves]

Thanks Toutvabien,

Seems very logical!

Few of us are lucky enough to have twin bow rollers, even quite large new yachts are devoid. So being unusual - I asked the question.

Jonathan

 

[DaiB]

Hi,
Last year I thought about changing our original sea wolf. In the end I had the motor rewound at a cost of £200. I could not find anything that had the same footprint and concluded I would have to renew the mounting complete and also modify the locker top to fit any of the "new" ones. Apart from that I would have needed to alter the wiring to take the new "big" battery cables, possibly move the forward battery, and generally make a lot of mods. I concluded that my estimated £2000 for the job made it not worth while. As stated all the parts needed for an overhaul are available and I believe the option of power up and down can be done with some modifications.
The nearest I could find to fit as a replacement was a Maxwell HRC10.

 

[Neeves]

We recently installed a new windlass, a Maxwell RC 6-8. 6mm gypsy, electric motor off the 8mm model (1,000 watt). We bought new as we were replacing our chain from (G30) 8mm to (G80) 6mm and needed a new gypsy and the cost of a new gypsy for the 20 year old Muir was simply a nonsense.

The Maxwell was easy to instal and has worked a treat. Ours only has a gypsy, no drum - we have a single bow roller.

I can commend Maxwell, very helpful and the windlass works a treat - but then so it should - its new!

If you are investing in a new windlass its a good time to take stock of your chain - as if its not the size you really need, or old, and you had thought of replacing with a different size now is a good time to do it. Gypsies are expensive (and old gypsies might have residual value).

Jonathan

 

[skipmac]

We recently installed a new windlass, a Maxwell RC 6-8. 6mm gypsy, electric motor off the 8mm model (1,000 watt). We bought new as we were replacing our chain from (G30) 8mm to (G80) 6mm and needed a new gypsy and the cost of a new gypsy for the 20 year old Muir was simply a nonsense.

The Maxwell was easy to instal and has worked a treat. Ours only has a gypsy, no drum - we have a single bow roller.

I can commend Maxwell, very helpful and the windlass works a treat - but then so it should - its new!

If you are investing in a new windlass its a good time to take stock of your chain - as if its not the size you really need, or old, and you had thought of replacing with a different size now is a good time to do it. Gypsies are expensive (and old gypsies might have residual value).

Jonathan

I have heard only good reports from Maxwell owners. If I changed my windlass it's the brand I would choose.

 

[skipmac]

Hi,
Last year I thought about changing our original sea wolf. In the end I had the motor rewound at a cost of £200. I could not find anything that had the same footprint and concluded I would have to renew the mounting complete and also modify the locker top to fit any of the "new" ones. Apart from that I would have needed to alter the wiring to take the new "big" battery cables, possibly move the forward battery, and generally make a lot of mods. I concluded that my estimated £2000 for the job made it not worth while. As stated all the parts needed for an overhaul are available and I believe the option of power up and down can be done with some modifications.
The nearest I could find to fit as a replacement was a Maxwell HRC10.

Hi DaiB

When you had the motor rewound did you have it done to match original or wind for more power? The main complaint I've heard about the Seawolf is the motor doesn't last well hoisting heavier anchors.

Having stripped mine down to the bare case I can confirm that all the gears, shafts and bearings are very heavy duty. The only parts that showed any wear or damage at all were the two bearings supporting the main shaft holding the drum and gypsy and those only needed replacement because they're exposed and salt water corroded.

 

[ffiill]

Hi Paul,

I have a SL Seawolf that's original to my 30 year old boat that seems to be good as new after a relatively minor overhaul. It only needed new bearings on the main shaft that holds the drum and gypsy but while I was at it I lubed it and repainted the case.

It had plenty of power for my 20 Kg Rocna. Just upgraded to a 30 Kg Mantus but have only hoisted that anchor three times but so far so good. If you need parts I assume you know about John at http://slspares.co.uk/ ? Very helpful with old SL gear.

If you need more power I read a comment somewhere by a Seawolf owner that bought a non SL motor that he was able to fit with some minor modification.

Dont think I was the one on the thread but I did fit a new bigger motorto mine -however do do this I had the housing machined out to fit the motor which was about 6 mm wider.
It was just a general purpose 12 volt motor from an electric motor supplier.

 

[skipmac]

Dont think I was the one on the thread but I did fit a new bigger motorto mine -however do do this I had the housing machined out to fit the motor which was about 6 mm wider.
It was just a general purpose 12 volt motor from an electric motor supplier.

Thanks for the info. Did the gp motor work better/stronger/faster than the original?

 

[vyv_cox]

I'll ask a stupid question as this is the second time the query has been raised.

Why do you want a separate drum to the gypsy?

Most new windlass have a gypsy that take chain and rope so why limit choice by the requirement to have 2 separate devices.

I can see the need for the drum if you use it to raise the main, have 2 bow rollers (and 2 anchors, one on each) - one being chain and the other rope.

Just curious

Jonathan

I replaced my Maxwell without a capstan for one with, mainly because we regularly berth at our home marina when the meltemi is blowing, using lazy lines. We can haul forwards against the F6-7 wind using the capstan, totally beyond our capabilities unassisted. We have found it very useful on a number of occasions for hauling rope, with the gypsy disengaged. Earlier this year I used it to recover the Fortress after fork mooring in winds up to F9.

 

[DaiB]

Hi DaiB

When you had the motor rewound did you have it done to match original or wind for more power? The main complaint I've heard about the Seawolf is the motor doesn't last well hoisting heavier anchors.

Having stripped mine down to the bare case I can confirm that all the gears, shafts and bearings are very heavy duty. The only parts that showed any wear or damage at all were the two bearings supporting the main shaft holding the drum and gypsy and those only needed replacement because they're exposed and salt water corroded.

I was happy with the performance and so had it rewound as original. I have 20kg anchor and 10 mm chain.

 

[damocles03]

Hi Dai,

My boat has a Seawolf that didn't work when we purchased the boat last year (unused for 8 years). I have dismantled and cleaned all parts - the bearings are all in excellent condition but the motor had suffered with some corrosion and weakened brush springs. I replaced the springs and brushes and lubricated all the bearing and gears and the winch now works but needs a little 'encouragement' to start with the manual lever. Once its running it will pull strongly. I would like to have the motor overhauled professionally. Where did you get your motor rewound? Im based in Dorset. Many thanks, Charlie

 

[AndrewB]

Last year I replaced my SL Seawolf with a Lofrans Kobra 1000w. Fitted nicely in the same space and is rather more powerful, though it seems to work fine on the same wiring. The footprint is similar, the floor cut-out larger but can be fitted precisely over that of the old Seawolf. However the bolt holes need to be repositioned.

 

[vyv_cox]

Hi Dai,

My boat has a Seawolf that didn't work when we purchased the boat last year (unused for 8 years). I have dismantled and cleaned all parts - the bearings are all in excellent condition but the motor had suffered with some corrosion and weakened brush springs. I replaced the springs and brushes and lubricated all the bearing and gears and the winch now works but needs a little 'encouragement' to start with the manual lever. Once its running it will pull strongly. I would like to have the motor overhauled professionally. Where did you get your motor rewound? Im based in Dorset. Many thanks, Charlie

I have a small Seawolf on my motor-sailer. The motor and gearbox were full of water when we bought the boat and even after rebuilding still leaked badly due to the chain counter, which I have now removed, blocking its aperture. However, even after rebuilding the motor performance was very intermittent. I thought it might be the switch but replacement made no difference. After some investigation I found that the thin steel clips that hold the magnets inside the motor casing had corroded through, allowing the magnets to roam around. Sometimes they were in the right place, at others not. I made some new clips and bolted them on through the casing, which seems to have solved the problem.

 

[damocles03]

Hi - many thanks for that. Our boat is now out of the water after her first season afloat for nearly 10 years and overall it was exceedingly successful. I'll remove the windlass again and check the magnet fastenings - it sounds like similar symptoms to your windlass. I'll let you know how I get on. Will also check the switch connections - the relay clearly works, as it clicks, but if the contacts are dirty, the voltage drop might hamper the windlass....