Submerged ad41's after bilge pump failed

[volvopaul]

Thanks for your reply.

Both starters and alternators have been removed and are in fresh water now and will be cleaned tomorrow.

Both dipsticks checked and oil level seems normal. Bilge pump repaired and a secondary one has been fitted.

The leak is from the steering shaft. The port engine will need lifted to replace this seal.

I would be interested to hear any other checks or procedures I should carry out?

Should I drain the oil anyway? Both engines had filter and oil changes only 4 hours ago.

The engine does not have to be removed to remove the steering yoke, I know it looks tight but just remove the intercooler, and the turbo then you can get it there even if the grubscrew is seized, just use wooded wedges on the outside to drift down the yoke, after outdrive removal of course.

However ifits leaking that bad I'd say your yoke shaft and transom shield are worn.

 

[DAKA]

Some legs had a grease nipple but of course such a barstewad to get to, being hidden behind just about everything, even the folks aware of its existence avoid getting a grease gun on it.
If grease not replenished frequently,old grease solidifys in passage , goes solid and becomes immovable until cleared out with bit of wire etc and of course you need leg off the do the job.

Just a note about the grease nipples..........

Can be heated (not with naked flame in petrol boats), then use a high pressure grease gun with a rubber seal on the end to force fresh grease in.

rubber seal = end of a disposable neoprene glove with a hole cut in the end tapped to end of nozzle


the extra pressure and warm grease allows the whole chamber to be cleaned out.

Sorry its a tip too late this time though.

 

[Sunseekerinspain]

Thanks, I was advised by the mechanic who looked at it at the end of November that the engine would have to come out to do the seal. It's this reason I had waited until end of this month to have the boat lifted out of the water to have a full service and antifoul.

The mechanic now is an electrician and removed the alternators and starter motors straight away and had them in fresh water over night. He has also fitted two bilge pumps. We hosed down both engines as best as we could with fresh water and I sprayed everything with wd40.

My only concern is the starboard engine oil level looked slightly higher than I expected. Now I am talking 2 mm above the middle. If the water had managed to enter the engine how much extra would appear?

The mechanic seems confident it HAS NOT got into the engines. But you can never be too careful and over here in Spain I am yet it can be hard to find a good mechanic.

The engine does not have to be removed to remove the steering yoke, I know it looks tight but just remove the intercooler, and the turbo then you can get it there even if the grubscrew is seized, just use wooded wedges on the outside to drift down the yoke, after outdrive removal of course.

However ifits leaking that bad I'd say your yoke shaft and transom shield are worn.

 

[dragoon]

. If the water had managed to enter the engine how much extra would appear?

That would depend how much water got in! Any water should separate and get to the bottom of the sump. Depending on how much came in, it may not be possible to see on the dipstick. If in any doubt, I would be assuming it has got in and take defensive action accordingly - at minimum a couple of successive oil changes.


Cheers,
Paul

 

[rafiki_]

Thanks, I was advised by the mechanic who looked at it at the end of November that the engine would have to come out to do the seal. It's this reason I had waited until end of this month to have the boat lifted out of the water to have a full service and antifoul.

The mechanic now is an electrician and removed the alternators and starter motors straight away and had them in fresh water over night. He has also fitted two bilge pumps. We hosed down both engines as best as we could with fresh water and I sprayed everything with wd40.

My only concern is the starboard engine oil level looked slightly higher than I expected. Now I am talking 2 mm above the middle. If the water had managed to enter the engine how much extra would appear?

The mechanic seems confident it HAS NOT got into the engines. But you can never be too careful and over here in Spain I am yet it can be hard to find a good mechanic.

If in any doubt, drain the oil. As the oil will sit on top of the water, if a little has got in, the only way of knowing is to drain completely. If only a little has got in, then you should be fine with refilling with cheapest you can find, and draining again.

 

[fisherman]

If in any doubt, drain the oil. As the oil will sit on top of the water, if a little has got in, the only way of knowing is to drain completely. .

As you drain or pump out from the bottom the water comes out first leaving clean oil if the engine has not been turned.

 

[Sunseekerinspain]

As you drain or pump out from the bottom the water comes out first leaving clean oil if the engine has not been turned.

I have an electric pump out of the sump is that what you mean?

 

[rafiki_]

I have an electric pump out of the sump is that what you mean?

It is unlikely that an electric pump will be up to the job. It needs the oil hot and thin to withdraw. I don't think you should be starting the engine. You need a Pela or similar vacuum pump, and that will struggle with cold oil. Alternative is to dump into the bilge, but a really nasty job to clean up afterwards, so avoid if possible.

 

[dragoon]

It is unlikely that an electric pump will be up to the job. It needs the oil hot and thin to withdraw. I don't think you should be starting the engine. You need a Pela or similar vacuum pump, and that will struggle with cold oil. Alternative is to dump into the bilge, but a really nasty job to clean up afterwards, so avoid if possible.

You could try the pump - it may be slow with cold oil, but I suspect it will still pull oil (depending on the type). If you get as much out as you can, then dump the remaining into the bilge. The issue is how deep the suck out pipe goes into the sump - I.e. how much will be left behind after pumping- this is where the water will likely be.

As rafiki says, I would try and avoid starting the engine to avoid dispersion of the water through the engine.

 

[fisherman]

The whole point is, if there's water present it will easily pump out cold, when the oil level reaches the outlet things will slow up, but in my experience it will still pump out-slowly. I have a manual pump, which is fitted to the drain plug sump outlet. I pumped out the water and when clean oil came I stopped. The engine was started, the oil remained clean.