Stuart Turner seacock help

[abbott013]

I have been told this is a Stuart Turner seacock, the handle and cone have been removed for greesing. Does anyone know if the strainer section can be serviced without looking for parts, is there a manual or service info available online.

 

[Porthandbuoy]

The strainer is a simple perforated metal basket which comes out of the top when you unscrew the lid. I just scrub mine with an old toothbrush to clean it.

The seacock part I just strip, clean and reassemble with waterproof grease.

If you need parts try Fairways Marine (helpful but expensive) or a boat jumble (unreliable but cheap).

I see yours is held in with st/st bolts. I wouldn't use st/st below the waterline, particularly in contact with another metal, as it may crumble to nothing due to galvanic corrosion. Also st/st needs oxygen, strangely enough, to maintain the oxide layer that prevents the rest of it from corroding. Where it passes through wet wood lacking in oxygen content the bolt might fail sooner than you think. I'd switch back to bronze.

 

[Dipper]

Many years ago I had a boat with a Stuart Turner engine. The inlet strainer had corroded and I was able to buy a modern nylon? replacement. Sorry but I can't remember where I got it from.

 

[doug748]

I can't quite make out the picture but it looks lile a Blakes seacock to me? The Stuart Turner has a long barrel shaped body that takes the strainer.

 

[VicS]

[ QUOTE ]
I see yours is held in with st/st bolts. I wouldn't use st/st below the waterline, particularly in contact with another metal, as it may crumble to nothing due to galvanic corrosion. Also st/st needs oxygen, strangely enough, to maintain the oxide layer that prevents the rest of it from corroding. Where it passes through wet wood lacking in oxygen content the bolt might fail sooner than you think. I'd switch back to bronze.


[/ QUOTE ] Very sound advice although st st and bronze are very close to each other in the "galvanic seires" so the "dissimilar metals" asspect should not be an issue.

The problem is known as "crevice corrosion" and occurs as you rightly point out where the st st passes through the hull and is starved of oxygen.

If st st is used below the water line is is absolutely vital to be sure that is is A4 (aka 316) and that it is sealed thoroughly so that salt water does not come in contact with the part passing through the hull.

 

[srp]

I had one of these on my last boat, with the same strainer problem. I couldn't get a replacement so I made one from perforated brass sheet wrapped around a broom stick, soft soldered joint, and with a large brass washer (cut from plain brass sheet) soldered on each end. In fact, I made three, fully expecting the brass to de-zincify rapidly, but the first one seemed ok after 4 years.
The screw top should have a large bulbous rubber insert in it to hold the top of the strainer down and keep it in position.
I got the perforated sheet from Hunter & Coombes, Cowes - unfortunately they changed hands a couple of years ago and are now useless for anything like this. Fairways (as suggested above) should be a good source, either for the brass or maybe even real Stuart Turner spares.

 

[abbott013]

Thank you everyone. I removed the strainer, gave it a light brush and removed a seagull feather from with in. The stainless steal bolts look ok, no signs of corrosion, i have decided to leave them for now.

 

[Poignard]

I used to have one of Stuart these hull valve/strainers and I might still have a spare strainer for it. You can have it free-of-charge if I can find it [don't hold your breath!], just pay the postage.

PM me if interested.

 

[oldharry]

[ QUOTE ]
The stainless steal bolts look ok, no signs of corrosion, i have decided to leave them for now.

[/ QUOTE ] No, change them. They can give up without warning, leaving you with a large inflow of water..... /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[abbott013]

Do you recommend standard brass machine screws. ?

 

[VicS]

No not ordinary brass. That will dezincify so it'll be no better than stainless. Possibly worse. Bronze! or at least DZR brass but I don't know if you can get bolts etc in DZR brass.

 

[abbott013]

Marinestore Chandlers advertise Bronze machine screws, does not say what grade of metal. will give them a ring tomorrow. thank you VicS

 

[oldharry]

Bronze casting + bronze fastenings is best. Most major chandlers can supply from stock.