Storm damaged boats, would you?

Remember that all insurance companies would require an out of water full survey before offering cover. Therefore, the quality of work that you will have done (or that which others have done for you) will need to pass muster. If the finished boat fails you will find yourself stuck between a rock and a hard place.

"stuck between a rock and a hard place" That's exactly where this particular boat has been. :D
 
2009 Beneteau oceanis 43. Don't know how much as insurance company want offers. Storm damaged, split and holed in the stern, right on waterline. Sporadic gravel rash on rest of the hull, inside total mess, all needs replacing. Mast, boom and sails ok but not on the boat and rigging cut away. Engine in place and works for now. Winches, blocks and clutches all still on boat and working, no running rigging.

Insurance companies typically write a boat off if the estimate is more than 80% of the value insured - which on some policies is likely to be greater than the market value of an equivalent (undamaged) boat.

It is only worth considering if you have the expertise to fully assess the extent of repairs and the means and facilities to carry them out. Remaking the interior of a production built boat back to a decent standard is not easy as the method of construction is based on machine made sub assemblies built outside then dropped in. If any of the furniture or bulkheads have suffered water damage it is unlikely they can be refurbished in situ. likewise the systems are installed, particularly electrics before the interior is installed.

A boat as you described is more likely to be broken up and scrapped rather than repaired as the costs will exceed the value.
 
2009 Beneteau oceanis 43. Don't know how much as insurance company want offers. Storm damaged, split and holed in the stern, right on waterline. Sporadic gravel rash on rest of the hull, inside total mess, all needs replacing. Mast, boom and sails ok but not on the boat and rigging cut away. Engine in place and works for now. Winches, blocks and clutches all still on boat and working, no running rigging.

Seen some on the other side for around 117 k with an offer you maybe looking at 100k ,
A damage yacht I not sure I be wanted to pay more then 30k maybe a lot less depending and then you still going to have a yacht that's have a record of damage and not going to be that much cheaper .
We just finishing off a refit on a sea worthily boat and we spend 20k and that's with us doing all the work .
No major damage just updating mostly rigging, sails, some engine work, seacock, tanks saildrive , that type of stuff
the one your looking at going to need a lot more spend on it and if you got to pay someone to do the work , the end bill is going to be eye watering .
I be thinking very carefully before taken on a boat like that , when there so many cheap boats about . The US market are full of tho boats .
 
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I was a boatbuilder & did a lot of wooden boat restoration & also used to do a lot of heavy duty GRP repairs. I had a long run of work after the 87 hurricane, I was working for a local salvage agent. We did some spectacular repairs & being honest if some were cars they would have been crushed & rightly so. Despite this I took pride in my work & as far as i know none ever failed subsequently. A GRP boat can be smashed to bits & still put back together strongly.
One large boat i did whose keel was torn right off is still racing hard 30 years later. (My lips are sealed) Ones that were too bad we chopped up but they had to be bad!
Things to look for, water staining on bulkheads & other plywood woodwork, edges on production boats are never sealed adequately & sea water will get in, being salty it will never dry out properly & will often show up on a moisture meter in the middle of the topsides, likewise cored areas can get wet & are the devil to dry out.
Wiring is always toast as the batteries short fiercely when immersed & destroy all wiring nearby, Engines usually survive but must be flushed asap several times. I wouldnt trust electrics on an engine that had been under. Look for signs that modular units have been removed, extra screws are a giveaway. Bunk cushions can be washed out but will nearly always feel damp.
If you have the skill to do it yourself it can be a way of gettting a bigger boat but is it economic? I would say in todays world probably not.
 
>why would it need a shaft and prop? The engine is running apparently according to the OP.

The OP is asking if it is a good idea to buy a sunken yacht nowhere does he say the engine is running.
 
>why would it need a shaft and prop? The engine is running apparently according to the OP.

The OP is asking if it is a good idea to buy a sunken yacht nowhere does he say the engine is running.

Well, nowhere except post number 5.
 
>why would it need a shaft and prop? The engine is running apparently according to the OP.

The OP is asking if it is a good idea to buy a sunken yacht nowhere does he say the engine is running.

try reading the actual posts in in the thread ..... You will find he says exactly that
 
Nobody would touch boats if they put a £ per hour value on their time; if it's a labour of love and one has the skills, rebuilding a boat has the same huge bonus as kit boats used to, the owner gets to know every inch - which can be a safety aid in emergencies as well as adding a great deal to the ' Row Away Factor '.
 
True. This lady had sunk before I bought her, in 1984; she was a write off in the 87 storm ( our mooring held... others’ didn’t...) and I sailed her with no or part finished accommodation for a while. But she is going strong today, with a good new owner.

 
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I was a boatbuilder & did a lot of wooden boat restoration & also used to do a lot of heavy duty GRP repairs. I had a long run of work after the 87 hurricane, I was working for a local salvage agent. We did some spectacular repairs & being honest if some were cars they would have been crushed & rightly so. Despite this I took pride in my work & as far as i know none ever failed subsequently. A GRP boat can be smashed to bits & still put back together strongly.
One large boat i did whose keel was torn right off is still racing hard 30 years later. (My lips are sealed) Ones that were too bad we chopped up but they had to be bad!
Things to look for, water staining on bulkheads & other plywood woodwork, edges on production boats are never sealed adequately & sea water will get in, being salty it will never dry out properly & will often show up on a moisture meter in the middle of the topsides, likewise cored areas can get wet & are the devil to dry out.
Wiring is always toast as the batteries short fiercely when immersed & destroy all wiring nearby, Engines usually survive but must be flushed asap several times. I wouldnt trust electrics on an engine that had been under. Look for signs that modular units have been removed, extra screws are a giveaway. Bunk cushions can be washed out but will nearly always feel damp.
If you have the skill to do it yourself it can be a way of gettting a bigger boat but is it economic? I would say in todays world probably not.

Post of the month!
 
>Well, nowhere except post number 5.

Post 5 is an assumption about the engine running not fact." Let us say its a production yacht, 35-45ft, 5 - 10 years old, GRP, holed and sunk, engine still in place and runs, mast boom and sails removed but sold with it. Value of non damaged similar yacht £75/£100k"
 
>Well, nowhere except post number 5.

Post 5 is an assumption about the engine running not fact." Let us say its a production yacht, 35-45ft, 5 - 10 years old, GRP, holed and sunk, engine still in place and runs, mast boom and sails removed but sold with it. Value of non damaged similar yacht £75/£100k"

re read the thread and you will see that it is not a hypothetical boat, but an actual one the chap is considering buying.
 
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