Stopping single handed at pontoon - how?

For several years I did it routinely with a Moody 31. I'd affirm most of the wisdom on here:

  1. If not using dock lines, ensure the lines are ready and led amidships before getting to the pontoon.
  2. Get the boat stopped alongside the pontoon using the engine in reverse as required. I found having a clear midships "aiming mark" on the pontoon spine helpful - I used a dock fender. It's also worth knowing where the end of the pontoon comes to when in the correct position, but that's less vital.
  3. Ensure the engine is in neutral before proceeding!
  4. Take a line onto the pontoon from amidships (or pick up a dock line)
  5. Permanent dock lines make things easier.
  6. I've never used a pickup device; it might be handy under some circumstances. I've seen one used very elegantly by a gentleman sailor in a small Sadler, who didn't leave the cockpit until he was attached to the pontoon!
  7. Last but not least, have a clear idea of what you'll do if you get blown off before you're ready to step ashore with a line. DON'T jump!
 
The best way is to attract the attention of some kind passer by, who can take your midships line when it is thrown to him..

No, no, never rely on this method. Kind passers by invariably have no idea what to do with the end of a warp passed to them, even 'experienced' sailors.

When I sailed a Folkboat single handed off a pontoon berth I had a line marked for length as a midships spring that I could set up easily on the approach to the harbour. Just apply a bit of backwards on the engine at the appropriate moment, drop the loop over the outermost cleat on the finger, and then leave the engine in gear at tickover ahead and she will sit beside the pontoon whil you arrange the other lines as you prefer. Very easy in a Folkboat with such low freebarod, a bit harder in a more modern yacht but not fundamentally very difficult.
 
I have an Albin Vega and use a sring run thru a block aft of amidships so I can lasoo a cleat and spring alongside from ther cockpit-The low guard rails make it easy to leap ashore though not so safe at sea.
 
Not a problem - with practice!

Single-handed or not, I reverse in. As my Mull 31 tends to "walk" a little as long the prop is engaged, I get steerage-way on and put her in neutral for better steering. I have a permanent line on the marina finger and, when that's amidships, I give a short burst of ahead to slow the boat then grab the line and take a couple of turns around the midships stanchion (no need to put another cleat to trip over) - stop her, tie it off with a couple of half-hitches and then attach the fore and after lines that side, ease-off on the midships line, attach f and a on the other side - all's snug and sweet. When you've done it a couple of times it's like riding a bike - plus it impresses any sheila's watching. BTW - that midship line is useful when leaving the marina in a crosswind. I let everything else off and that line keeps the boat reasonably well lined-up - finally cast that off and rush to the cockpit to engage forward and out you go.
 
Antarcticpilot has summed up the basics esp the bit re stepping & not jumping
Another point is if you are a visitor try to find a berth where the wind will blow you on to it. When you stop you will not quickly drift off. Also find a berth where you can get out easily

A lot depends on your boat. Fin keel, long keel or dumpy tub
A fin keel manouvers better but can swing about too much
Do not have excessive long lines. You see loads of crews with excessively long lines getting tangled by trying to threadle long lengths of line through rings etc.
Have shortish dedicated lines for each cleat
The bow line wants to be short enough not to get in the prop if it drops over as you motor in. The mid line can be longer as you can see if it drops in the water
The stern line should be a thickish polypropelene so it floats . Thicker 3 strand lines are best as you can do quicker neat coils if you have to sort a tangle on the quick. Braid can kink plus will not coil so good

You also need to consider current. Most marinas have a small amount & if picking a berth it can help to enter into the tide but think about when you will leave . It can be difficult reversing out against the tide with wind pushing you the wrong way as well. It is all about planning

If going to a finger with wind blowing you off you need to "sling" the boat at the berth. Ie come in at a steeper angle & turn at the last minute so your boat has a bit of sideways drift on it . This gives you a few seconds extra to get ashore with that midships line. You may bump the bow but you will be less likely to drift off & hit the boat in the next berth
If there is a boat in the next berth then remember to be well fendered both sides
 
Works fine on my 24-footer. In a strong offshore breeze I'd get a line ashore instead, but 80% of the time the boathook is all I use until I've picked up my fixed shorelines.

Pete

Sorry, I was'nt clear about the use of the boathook; I don't use it to grab the cleat. What I do is hang the bowline loop from the boathook and drape it over the cleat on arrival. The line is turned around a sheet winch (which, on the UFO27 is conveniently at the front end of the cockpit), and led back to the helm. It can be surged, to take way off if I arrive too fast, and then made fast to a stern cleat
 
Vara is that a length of flexible pipe I see ?

If so, as I understand your photo, having secured the loop at the end round a cleat you then let the whole thing go including the flexible pipe? Presumably this follows any curvature in the path of your rope and this is secured where? Round a winch in the cockpit temporarily?

It all looks pretty simple to me and, on the face of it, very effective. There must be some issue with it somewhere?
 
Sorry, I was'nt clear about the use of the boathook; I don't use it to grab the cleat.

Oh, ok.

I do :)

Just stop the boat alongside, then go and pick up the shore lines. If it's not flat calm, the bow might drift out slightly between putting on the stern line and going for the bow. There's a cleat halfway along the boat, so as I'm walking along the side deck I reach down with my boathook and grab that, give a bit of a tug to put her back where she should be. Then carry on to the bow and pick up the lines there.

Sometimes I cock up the approach slightly and end up stopped too far out. Again, boathook out, grab a cleat, and pull us in.

Obviously this sort of behaviour doesn't work on bigger boats, but on ones the size of mine and the OP's, it's another tool in the box.

Pete
 
A bit basic but what is the best way of stopping a boat (Jaguar 25) at a finger pontoon when sailing single handed? Normally I have my son with me and he jumps off and provides the necessary braking using the pontoon cleat but I have to do it by myself following relaunch. Can you just put a loop into the mooring warp and hook on to the cleat as you slowly motor past and hope she stops before you hit the main pontoon?

Jusy get on the radio to Steve or Billy I'm sure they will come down to the pontoon to catch you.:D
 
If so, as I understand your photo, having secured the loop at the end round a cleat you then let the whole thing go including the flexible pipe? Presumably this follows any curvature in the path of your rope and this is secured where? Round a winch in the cockpit temporarily?

It all looks pretty simple to me and, on the face of it, very effective. There must be some issue with it somewhere?

Crew stationed at centre cleat with second loop attached to said cleat, as end cleat on pontoon is abeam hook hose loop over it and drop the whole lot, and then continue forward until strain is taken up, apply small amount of forward and steer away from pontoon, all is held secure.

I can do this single handed from cockpit but there is less room for error.

The short tube is a bit of hose pipe, the long tube a length of elec conduit.

Disadvantages, only works from centre if pontoon longer than boat, on shorter ones deploy from bow cleat, not as good, doesn't work on closed French cleats.
Does need a bit of stretchy rope or the stop is a little abrupt!
 
As the OP specified being single-handed I'm amused to see the increep of crew.

I've single-handed for the last 20 years and would say a pontoon is the easiest tie up of all - just try tying up stern-to single handed and with a manual winch.

First, make sure you have the fore and aft lines rigged ready to take ashore, on the side you intend to tie up on and in the middle of the side so they're easy to grab as you leap ashore.
If it's an unoccupied finger pontoon go in, either in reverse or forward and put lots of opposite revs on just before you want to stop and when stopped get ashore.
If you're trying to get into a one-boat length alongside, put the bows in and use propwalk to stop you and move the stern over.
Ideally have the wind blowing you onto the berth.
There is no quick learning - it just needs patient practice.

As many boats have no central cleat and some pontoons have staples rather than cleats all this business of dropping a line as you come in is for the birds (and somewhere that you've had plenty of practice-opportunity)
 
Make one end of a line off on the midships cleat, lead the other round the forward horn of the cleat and back to winch. As you enter the berth, stop the boat and drop a loop of the line over the pontoon cleat at the outer end of the finger as it comes within striking distance of the helm, this may involve moving forward slightly if the finger is short. Whizz in the end of the line on the winch, motor gently forward on the line with the tiller to the pontoon, or wheel away, and you're secure.

Works for me on a 40 footer. Given a long finger I don't even need to leave the helm. On a shorter one, I only have to take a few steps from it, and never have to get off the boat until secure.
 
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As many boats have no central cleat and some pontoons have staples rather than cleats all this business of dropping a line as you come in is for the birds (and somewhere that you've had plenty of practice-opportunity)

In order to cope with staples and also equivalent hardware that you find in locks I have a short [ca.5m.] line which I snap-shacke amidships. This saves threading many metres of line through the shore fixing point. In our experience it's the initial midships fixing that's the critical bit and after you've done that the rest is easy.
 
Thanks Vara I will give that some thought. I must find some way of bringing the boat to a standstill alongside a pontoon so that I can go ashore in a controlled fashion with the boat at least temporarily secured first. My wife has jone a premium job of stepping off in past years but I don't want her doing that anymore. I have tried numerous contraptions and none have been the answer but yours seems more hopeful.
 
Thanks Vara I will give that some thought. I must find some way of bringing the boat to a standstill alongside a pontoon so that I can go ashore in a controlled fashion with the boat at least temporarily secured first. My wife has jone a premium job of stepping off in past years but I don't want her doing that anymore. I have tried numerous contraptions and none have been the answer but yours seems more hopeful.

That is exactly the problem I have, give it a whirl even if you have to buy the bits it's less than a fiver, when I made mine there was a certain amount of scorn from my neighbours but a few demos won them over:)
 
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