Stern Tube Packing

Roach1948

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27 Apr 2006
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www.dallimoredesigns.nl
I have just re-engined from an old Stuart Turner, but will retain the old stern gland as I am in no mood to re-drill through the deadwood. To complete the job properly, and as she is out of the water, I thought I should re-pack the stern gland whilst I am at it. Its a traditional strerngland with a large nut on the end and a copper feed out to the greaser.

I know there have been a lot of posts regarding re-packing a sterngland (which I have sreached) - I but I still dont completely understand what to expect when I take it apart (bits of leather?) or how/where I purchase the correct packing for my unmarked - unknown brand of stern tube. I just thought I would run it on here before I start taking the whole thing apart.
 
Most chandlers stock gland packing. Make sure you get the correct size. Measure between the shaft and inside of the packing body. Cut rings the same size as the shaft circumference, don't just wrap one length of packing around the shaft. Don't overtighten nut when finished. Hand tight only.
 
The Stuarts were usually supplied as a complete package; engine - propshaft - stern gland - prop. The old stuff can be hooked out with a bit of fencewire bent to shape. Take care not to score the shaft though.

To quote from the manual:

Stern Gland. The number of rings of packing is:-
3/4" shaft: 5 or 6 turns (1/8" square)
1" shaft: 3 or 4 turns (1/4" square)
1 1/8" shaft: 8 or 9 turns ( 1/8" square)

Unquote

Do not put the packing in in a spiral. Wrap the packing around the shaft and cut it longitudinally with a stanley blade or craft knife. Insert each piece seperately being sure to stagger the joints.

Hope this helps.
 
Many thanks Mariposa, you were most helpful. I was really confused about your instructions untill I saw the stuff in a photo in the Marinestore web site. I ordered 1/8 PACKING for my 3/4" shaft and cost £3.35.

My final question is: AS I dont have the shaft installed on the boat yet, should I fit it before packing? (The new engine and shaft are aligned as I got a professional engineer to do that)
 
Definitely install the shaft first. It's impossible to fit the packing otherwise.

It looks as though you've bought the right stuff. Take heed of what PCUK has to say! Don't graunch the gland nut up too tight. Use a waterproof grease in the greaser (your local chandler will have a tin of the stuff). Give the greaser a turn every half-hour or so of running, and a good turn when you moor up at night. The occasional drip is normal and to be expected.
Finally: The gland should run cool. If it's getting warm back off the gland nut a 1/4 turn (there should be a locknut to keep it in place).
 
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