Judders
Well-Known Member
Can I get away with putting my own mast up (it's not that big on an 18 footer). What should I consider and look out for?
Stepping the mast
- Thread starter Judders
- Start date
davierobb
Well-Known Member
We raise/lower mast on 26' snappy without boatyard help. The mast is stepped in a tabernacle which makes the process fairly straight forward. Hard to give advice without knowing your setup. On bit of general advice is take time to think about what can go wrong and try and mitigate against this happening, use an additional rope or have a fender placed at the main contact points between mast and deck.
At 18’ I would expect your mast to be easily manageable.
At 18’ I would expect your mast to be easily manageable.
VicS
Well-Known Member
You should have no problems with a Foxcub mast.
I can do my Seawych mast singlehanded (although I like to have someone else handy "just in case") with the aid of an "A" frame. I am lucky in as much that there is a raised beam across the deck on which the mast is stepped for the feet of the A frame to rest against. I shackle the forestay on to the apex of the A and then the mainsheet tackle also from the apex down to the stem head fitting. Attach all the standing rigging, but with the bottle screws wound out so that is a bit slack when up. I stand all the rigging screws up with bits of thin shock cord tied to the guard rails so that they cannot snag. (If they do you can easily bend them) I start with the mast raised a bit by a support at the stern and haul away with the mainsheet. Since it is not laterally stable I stand where I can guide it with one hand. A helper can keep an eye open for shrouds catching on cleats and winches and especially the outboard bracket but otherwise I get them to stand safely to one side. If it is necessary to pause then the cleat on the mainshet is useful.
You must be confident about the screws holding the mast step to the deck as there is a big shear load on them initially.
It is just as easy to do it with just one helper and no "A" frame etc but you must be sure to explain what you are doing carefully to avoid misunderstandings.
I have done it afloat, once, but a boat that small is not really a stable enough platform. I also avoid windy weather.
I hope that give you some ideas. "Lakesailor" has a Foxcub so perhaps he has some tricks more relevant to your needs.
I can do my Seawych mast singlehanded (although I like to have someone else handy "just in case") with the aid of an "A" frame. I am lucky in as much that there is a raised beam across the deck on which the mast is stepped for the feet of the A frame to rest against. I shackle the forestay on to the apex of the A and then the mainsheet tackle also from the apex down to the stem head fitting. Attach all the standing rigging, but with the bottle screws wound out so that is a bit slack when up. I stand all the rigging screws up with bits of thin shock cord tied to the guard rails so that they cannot snag. (If they do you can easily bend them) I start with the mast raised a bit by a support at the stern and haul away with the mainsheet. Since it is not laterally stable I stand where I can guide it with one hand. A helper can keep an eye open for shrouds catching on cleats and winches and especially the outboard bracket but otherwise I get them to stand safely to one side. If it is necessary to pause then the cleat on the mainshet is useful.
You must be confident about the screws holding the mast step to the deck as there is a big shear load on them initially.
It is just as easy to do it with just one helper and no "A" frame etc but you must be sure to explain what you are doing carefully to avoid misunderstandings.
I have done it afloat, once, but a boat that small is not really a stable enough platform. I also avoid windy weather.
I hope that give you some ideas. "Lakesailor" has a Foxcub so perhaps he has some tricks more relevant to your needs.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Yup. This is the rig I made. 2x1 battens. Could do to be a bit stronger perhaps (2x2 would do the trick).
One stay from the front will do but you need 2 from the stern as the mast has to have room to swing.
View from the cockpit.
The mast is not heavy so that will be sufficient to lift it.
The feet of the uprights made fast to the cap shround u-bolts.
Strop goes under the spreaders
Forestay,backstay and caps shrouds connected. All is safe now.
Job done. It was a calm day, but I did it single-handed so was quite pleased with the result.
If you have a pivot bolt on the step block it can be much easier. I just have an alloy shoe the mast foot sits in, so until that is located everything is a bit loose.
I have alternative pics for a pivot stepped mast.
In view of your occupation maybe a hard hat during the lift? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
One stay from the front will do but you need 2 from the stern as the mast has to have room to swing.
View from the cockpit.
The mast is not heavy so that will be sufficient to lift it.
The feet of the uprights made fast to the cap shround u-bolts.
Strop goes under the spreaders
Forestay,backstay and caps shrouds connected. All is safe now.
Job done. It was a calm day, but I did it single-handed so was quite pleased with the result.
If you have a pivot bolt on the step block it can be much easier. I just have an alloy shoe the mast foot sits in, so until that is located everything is a bit loose.
I have alternative pics for a pivot stepped mast.
In view of your occupation maybe a hard hat during the lift? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
William_H
Well-Known Member
Yes Lakesailors method is unusual but is good if the step does not have a hinge that is substantial. It very much equates to having a crane lift the mast up then drop into place.
However if you have a hinge arrangement in the mast step such that you can attach the base of the mast then pivot it up it is much easier. Usually from the stern pivotting forward and up.
Note VicS comment that there is a lot of force trying to push the mast base and step forward when raising.
Note also VicS comments re a support at the transom which will raise the mast as high as you can reach ie 2 metres above the transom. You put the mast into the stern crutch then attach the mast base hinge. You may have to balance or push the mast base down into the hinge cos the stern support will be closer to the mast base than top. ie put the mast into the stern support while the base is near the bow. Then have a person lift and slide the mast in the support back until the base is at the mast step needing a person to guide the mast base and hold it down.
You need to have all the stays connected at approximate length except the forestay.
With an 18fter it is likely with 2 people that you can lift the mast up to near vertical while standing on the cabin top. I am fairly tall and can do it with 21fter fractional mast without using poles to the forestay (to improve the angle on the forestay pull.) (Although I have them for use on water under way.)
You do need a rope or preferably a tackle to the forestay via a pulley at the bow to enable you or your helper to pull the mast to vertical. Note until the mst is past 45degrees you can't get much usefull pull on the forestay. That is why a sternsupport or A frame is usefull to get the mast as high as poss.
The trick is to lift it fairly quickly to near vertical which requires that the stays don't tangle in things (but they always do) Likewise when lowering you let the mast come down on the rope on the forestay fairly quickly into the tall stern support. (A frame).
I think you will find it a piece of cake if you have the right kind of mast base (pivotting) and after a few times it will be second nature.
rough calculations I have done mine proably 60 times without mishap both on hard on water and underway. olewill
However if you have a hinge arrangement in the mast step such that you can attach the base of the mast then pivot it up it is much easier. Usually from the stern pivotting forward and up.
Note VicS comment that there is a lot of force trying to push the mast base and step forward when raising.
Note also VicS comments re a support at the transom which will raise the mast as high as you can reach ie 2 metres above the transom. You put the mast into the stern crutch then attach the mast base hinge. You may have to balance or push the mast base down into the hinge cos the stern support will be closer to the mast base than top. ie put the mast into the stern support while the base is near the bow. Then have a person lift and slide the mast in the support back until the base is at the mast step needing a person to guide the mast base and hold it down.
You need to have all the stays connected at approximate length except the forestay.
With an 18fter it is likely with 2 people that you can lift the mast up to near vertical while standing on the cabin top. I am fairly tall and can do it with 21fter fractional mast without using poles to the forestay (to improve the angle on the forestay pull.) (Although I have them for use on water under way.)
You do need a rope or preferably a tackle to the forestay via a pulley at the bow to enable you or your helper to pull the mast to vertical. Note until the mst is past 45degrees you can't get much usefull pull on the forestay. That is why a sternsupport or A frame is usefull to get the mast as high as poss.
The trick is to lift it fairly quickly to near vertical which requires that the stays don't tangle in things (but they always do) Likewise when lowering you let the mast come down on the rope on the forestay fairly quickly into the tall stern support. (A frame).
I think you will find it a piece of cake if you have the right kind of mast base (pivotting) and after a few times it will be second nature.
rough calculations I have done mine proably 60 times without mishap both on hard on water and underway. olewill
VicS
Well-Known Member
As you will have guessed my mast step is the hinged type. Nearly, but not quite, as handy as a tabernacle.
My "A" frame, at just over 2m tall, is just a bit less than the J measurement and although a fixed "A" will just go in the back of a largeish estate car for transportation. The main uprights are made of 2" X 1½" planed. That seems adequate but I would not want them any smaller.
My stern support just, annoyingly, coincides with the position of the spreaders so when ready for lifting the mast is practically on the point of balance there.
With two people there is no problem just doing it by hand but once, as a result of not giving my helper enough instructions, we dropped it. Usually everyone vanishes just as I am about to ask for help or suddenly have bad backs or have to dash off to meet the wife. All reasons for making the gear to do it unaided if necessary.
Compass watersports do a derrick, similar to Lakesailor's, suitable for masts up to 120kg with a lifting height of 6.5m. However it costs arond £200.
FWIW when we step larger masts at the yard using the yard derrick we put a short strop around the mast just below the spreaders and onto the hook but with it passing through a spliced eye in the end of a strong rope that comes down to, and is secured to, a mast winch or cleat. It is that rope that takes the weight of the mast as it reaches the vertical. No load is put on the spreaders and their fittings. It also serves as a down haul for the hook which does not fall again under its own weight.
My "A" frame, at just over 2m tall, is just a bit less than the J measurement and although a fixed "A" will just go in the back of a largeish estate car for transportation. The main uprights are made of 2" X 1½" planed. That seems adequate but I would not want them any smaller.
My stern support just, annoyingly, coincides with the position of the spreaders so when ready for lifting the mast is practically on the point of balance there.
With two people there is no problem just doing it by hand but once, as a result of not giving my helper enough instructions, we dropped it. Usually everyone vanishes just as I am about to ask for help or suddenly have bad backs or have to dash off to meet the wife. All reasons for making the gear to do it unaided if necessary.
Compass watersports do a derrick, similar to Lakesailor's, suitable for masts up to 120kg with a lifting height of 6.5m. However it costs arond £200.
FWIW when we step larger masts at the yard using the yard derrick we put a short strop around the mast just below the spreaders and onto the hook but with it passing through a spliced eye in the end of a strong rope that comes down to, and is secured to, a mast winch or cleat. It is that rope that takes the weight of the mast as it reaches the vertical. No load is put on the spreaders and their fittings. It also serves as a down haul for the hook which does not fall again under its own weight.
DavidTocher
Well-Known Member
My Galion 22 uses a 'mortice and tenon' at the mast foot. I use a wooden derrick 2"x3" to lift the mast - see the posting in this thread for some nice pictures of a similar set up. I use lines from the base of the mast to the coachroof winches to pull the foot of the mast back as the mast is being raised with 4:1 tackle with the fall taken to a jib winch.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
With my last boat's mast which was tabernacle pivoted I made a derrick post which fitted on the mast pivot bolt and the forestay was secured to a tab welded on at the other end. Then a line was passed from a loop at that end of the post and under the bow roller. by pulling on that line (using the mast halyard winch) the mast simply came up to the upright position. You do have to watch that shrouds and rigging screws don't get twisted or you can kink a shroud or bend a screw.
Judders
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all your help. I am not sure what the name of the kind of fitting is, but I doubt there is any swing in it.
