Steaming

I once tried steaming/boiling small section teak for some cabin trim. It gave only a slight improvement in pliability, barely worth the trouble in my case.
 
I have bent teak slightly thicker than that using a wallpaper steamer connected to a tupperware box. The box had slots each end for the timber and a fulcrum in the middle. Put the box on the edge of a workmate and hung a weight from the timber. Heat each section for 5 minutes before sliding it through to the next bit.

Boring but effective.

How much bend do you need?
 
I use a wallpaper stripper as well, from Wickes, connected to a 4" plastic drain pipe (which goes a bit soft but still works ok). Stuff a rag in each end and arrange a slight fall so the condensate runs out. 10mm stuff should be done in around 20-25 minutes, and you need a thick pair of gardening gloves. Speed is vital - you have around a minute to whip it out of the tube, pull it round the former and clamp it, so get everything ready including having the clamps adjusted to the correct opening.
If you're bending a very tight radius you'll need a metal strip as a backing - they do this with the backs of Windsor chairs. It's one of those cases where spending some time on the jig will save you having to do the job twice.
Teak is not the best wood to steam, but it will work - my favourites are ash and English oak. Kiln dried wood needs to be soaked for a day (at least, maybe much more for teak) before you steam it to get the moisture content up. You'll need to overbend as it will spring back when it's cool. It's difficult to get any sort of bend at the extreme ends.
The missing bit of info here is the radius you want of course - I think you might struggle with anything less than around 12-18" with a backing strip, and double that without.
 
Thanks everyone for that;- brilliant advice. The radius is only about 700mm and it the strip will conform cold but I would really like to remove the strain in view of the fixing method.

Off to B&Q for the steamer.
 
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